Can I prevent stator from failing? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Can I prevent stator from failing?

I have VN750 from 2006. For now all is good, however I see that there is lots of posts with description of problems with starter(stator). Is there any way I can prevent stator from failing?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 08:12 AM
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  • Don't overload the electrical system (too many electrical add-ons)
  • Keep up on regular oil changes
  • Keep electrical connections clean and tight
  • Slow riding (parades and such) aren't a good idea. We need about 1400-1800 rpms to charge the battery properly.

It is kind of normal for a stator to eventually fail. Granted, some have gone over 50k miles without a problem. but you can't expect it to last forever.
Our bike isn't the only one with stator issues. It is somewhat common on many bikes.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 09:05 AM
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if you dont want the stator , or anyelse to fail on your bike ... dont ride it ...
just like a car , eventualy something is going to brake. its the law.r ride it and worry about what brakes when it happens , keep up with the maintanence and it might not happen for a long time .

DRAGONRIDER
RIDE LONG AND RIDE SAFE
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 09:44 AM
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Hyper pretty much nailed it as far as suggestions for keeping a healthy stator. All stators will eventually fail, the problem with our bikes is it requires an engine pull or tilt to replace it. For other bikes with easy access it's a non-issue since it's maybe an hour or less to swap them out.

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 11:41 AM
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Heat generated by your stator kills your stator. The the majority of heat is dissapated by oil spray inside the spinning rotor, but not very much oil makes it into there; I modified a side cover with a large glass window to view the "slight mist" of oil in there. Some people have installed external oil coolers to help, but there just isn't enough oil getting to the stator, so the heat generated by it cooks the mist onto the windings, further reducing heat flow, eventually leading to insulation meltdown. You can prevent heat buildup and thereby protect your stator indefinately by redirecting a stream of engine oil into the spinning flywheel/rotor. See Stator Burn-out Solved? and Further protection for your stator. The external tubing method can be simplified by teeing directly off of the oil sensor fitting in the front of the engine, alleviating the need to cut the chrome oil pipe. If you're a little "handy" this would be a cool project.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
SOLD - 2013

Last edited by darrelc5; 04-30-2009 at 11:44 AM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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So if I good understand primary reason for stator failures is electrical load and lack of cooling. Please correct me if I am wrong but I have a feeling that if I will limit power consumption by converting all I can to LED’s (stop and directional) and buying head lamp with lover power consumption it will prevent the problem. Am I on a right track?
Is there an electrical gizmo which will redirect extensive current to battery? I will rather replace 10 batteries than stator.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 03:13 PM
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Changing the signal lights to LED is a great idea. You'll also need to put in an electronic flasher then too. Something like THIS ONE.
As for the headlight, unless you never plan on riding at night, I'd just stay with the stock one.

Also, for the brake light, there is a company called Clear Alternatives that make an LED set-up for the Vulcan.
Check out the post HERE for that.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

Author Unknown

Last edited by hyperbuzzin; 04-30-2009 at 03:17 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 03:25 PM
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I'm no mechanic so I won't be installing any oil cooled stator modifications. Honestly, I don't know where you guys come up with this stuff!

My 2003 has got just over 10,000 miles tallied up, the volt meter shows I'm charging most of the time, with the possible exception of when the fan is on at a light with the directionals blinking or the brake pressed. Must I resign myself to the fact I'm going to face a 500 dollar repair no matter what? Cripes that's a 6th of what I paid for the bike! I have no plans for any add-ons, will change my oil regularly and promise the connections will be maintained as best I can. But I bought this thing to ride on, not to work on. Maybe I should have been patient and held out for the VN900 custom I really wanted.

Michael
2002 Nomad 1500
VROC #29972

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Last edited by msh1156; 04-30-2009 at 03:28 PM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 03:52 PM
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna View Post
Hyper pretty much nailed it as far as suggestions for keeping a healthy stator. All stators will eventually fail, the problem with our bikes is it requires an engine pull or tilt to replace it. For other bikes with easy access it's a non-issue since it's maybe an hour or less to swap them out.
Dianna and Vulcanites --

I think I remember reading that "TOC" provides an alternative to pulling the engine. I think it involves a replacement cover that makes the stator accessible w/o removing the engine.

Has anyone used the TOC method? If so, how did it work for you?

Thanx!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
Dianna and Vulcanites --

I think I remember reading that "TOC" provides an alternative to pulling the engine. I think it involves a replacement cover that makes the stator accessible w/o removing the engine.

Has anyone used the TOC method? If so, how did it work for you?

Thanx!
Unless I'm way off, you have to pull the engine to slap that replacement cover on - then you can change stators to your heart's content.

Michael
2002 Nomad 1500
VROC #29972

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