Charging Problem + Leaking Fork Seal - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2009, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thumbs down Charging Problem + Leaking Fork Seal

Folks I need your help AGAIN <[email protected]!#%&$~!

After three days I finally completed the spine lube, final drive fluid change, new Metzeler 880, a second rear wheel removal for inspection of a strange noise and the "stuck in the center stand dilemma."

I was feeling good so I took Mr. Spock out for a run. Guess what!?? Yep, your guessed it. . . The damn @%^*#~ gremlins struck AGAIN.

Only about 15 minutes from the house the voltmeter went from reading 14.5 volts to 11.3 no matter how much I reved the engine. My charging problem has returned. Where should I start looking?
* test R/R which I just replaced a week ago
* test stator
* check R/R plastic connector (I never did feel too confidant about it)
* voltmeter connections
* what else?

That's only part of the story. Upon my return I parked in the shed and noticed what looked like oil on the floor next to the front wheel --- yep, right fork seal is leaking, but that's another post in another forum.

Good night folks
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2009, 11:09 PM
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Sorry to hear the gremlins are back, check the readings on the stator and R/R. Since the r/r is Chineese made you might have a bad one. check your wires at the connector.

FIRST test voltage a multimeter at the battery to rule ot a faulty gauge.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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Last edited by lance328; 04-16-2009 at 10:03 AM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 08:11 AM
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And someone *please* get him a Gremlin Bell....

--FA

K.J. "Fire Ant" Lord
VROC #28807
Decatur, TX
'03 VN750 "Serenity"

Rear Turn Signal Relocation
Front Brake Replacement
Spline lube, per Fergy's excellent instructions (that he has posted around here somewhere)
Kevlar Clutch Plates
Metzeler ME880 Tires
Stebel Nautilus Air Horn
ACCTs Rebuilt
Saddlemen Explorer Seat
MCCTs Installed
Kuryakyn Wide Levers Installed
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Sorry to hear the gremlins are back, check the readings on the stator and R/R. Since the r/r is Chineese made you might have a bad one. check your wires at the connector.

FIRST test voltage a multimeter at the battery to rule ot a faulty gauge.
================================================== ======
And someone *please* get him a Gremlin Bell....

--FA
================================================== =======

Lance and FireAnt --

Will do.

As always, Many Thanx for your help and encouragement!!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 11:48 AM
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I'd go back to the Electrosport Electrical Fault Finding chart and take it from the top.

'04 750A- and loving it!
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"Sixth gear? I don't need no stinkin sixth gear!"
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Exclamation Culprit = Plastic Connector x 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Sorry to hear the gremlins are back, check the readings on the stator and R/R. Since the r/r is Chineese made you might have a bad one. check your wires at the connector.

FIRST test voltage a multimeter at the battery to rule ot a faulty gauge.
Lance and Everyone --

I found the culprit! The plastic connector and some wires between the R/R and the harness melted for a second time (see pic attached). I think the problem is that the wires coming from the stator are extremely stiff and brittle and do not make a good connection especially within the plastic connector. The previous melt-down caused the last 2 inches or so of each wire to become stiff/brittle.

Although I have an extra plastic connector, I think I will not use it. Since soldering near the R/R is not recommended I think instead I will use crimp style butt splicers to individually connect each wire and cover the connection with heat shrink wrap. The heat applied to the wrap is minimal and should not harm the R/R.

I'm also considering trimming about 1 or 2 inches from the ends of each wire.
I think the R/R will still reach the Bulldog bracket but just barely.

If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions on this approach please let me know!!

--
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Name:	Second Melted Connector 1 (2176 x 1632).jpg
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
Lance and Everyone --

I found the culprit! The plastic connector and some wires between the R/R and the harness melted for a second time (see pic attached). I think the problem is that the wires coming from the stator are extremely stiff and brittle and do not make a good connection especially within the plastic connector. The previous melt-down caused the last 2 inches or so of each wire to become stiff/brittle.

Although I have an extra plastic connector, I think I will not use it. Since soldering near the R/R is not recommended I think instead I will use crimp style butt splicers to individually connect each wire and cover the connection with heat shrink wrap. The heat applied to the wrap is minimal and should not harm the R/R.

I'm also considering trimming about 1 or 2 inches from the ends of each wire.
I think the R/R will still reach the Bulldog bracket but just barely.

If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions on this approach please let me know!!

--

You can use the raychem solder grip splices we discussed. I would look for a cheap main harness and replace that section of wire.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
Lance and Everyone --

I found the culprit! The plastic connector and some wires between the R/R and the harness melted for a second time (see pic attached). I think the problem is that the wires coming from the stator are extremely stiff and brittle and do not make a good connection especially within the plastic connector. The previous melt-down caused the last 2 inches or so of each wire to become stiff/brittle.

Although I have an extra plastic connector, I think I will not use it. Since soldering near the R/R is not recommended I think instead I will use crimp style butt splicers to individually connect each wire and cover the connection with heat shrink wrap. The heat applied to the wrap is minimal and should not harm the R/R.

I'm also considering trimming about 1 or 2 inches from the ends of each wire.
I think the R/R will still reach the Bulldog bracket but just barely.

If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions on this approach please let me know!!

--
UPDATE TO 2ND MELTED CONNECTOR:

I trimmed about 1/2 inch from each wire on the harness side and used crimp style connectors to individually connect all 6 wires from the RR to the harness. I used shrink wrap and high temp tape to seal each connection (see 5 photos below and 3 on next post). I'm getting a good 14.5 volts!

I don't know if this will melt and burn through again but I'm hoping it will hold! Otherwise I will go with Lance's idea to find a used wiring harness and replace this section.

Wish Mr. Spock and me luck!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	RR wiring connectors 1 (2176 x 1632).jpg
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Name:	RR wiring connectors 5 (2176 x 1632).jpg
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ID:	1627  

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
UPDATE TO 2ND MELTED CONNECTOR:

I trimmed about 1/2 inch from each wire on the harness side and used crimp style connectors to individually connect all 6 wires from the RR to the harness. I used shrink wrap and high temp tape to seal each connection (see 5 photos below and 3 on next post). I'm getting a good 14.5 volts!

I don't know if this will melt and burn through again but I'm hoping it will hold! Otherwise I will go with Lance's idea to find a used wiring harness and replace this section.

Wish Mr. Spock and me luck!
Final 2 photos attached.
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	RR wiring connectors 6 (1632 x 2176).jpg
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ID:	1628  

Last edited by FlaRider; 01-23-2010 at 09:23 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 01:52 PM
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It should be okay. I think the reason for getting hot was bad connections.

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