Bypassing vulcan 750 kill switches for testing purpose - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2020, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
AMH
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Bypassing vulcan 750 kill switches for testing purpose

Hello,
I have a 2004 Vulcan 750 with 23k miles and sometimes when backing out of the garage or turning to the right , the bike dies, but starts right up every time! I have read this could be related to the ignition switch and it's suggested to clean the ignition switch. However as I back out or turn the handle bars, I'm using the clutch and I wanted to see if anyone knows how to temporary bypass the clutch kill switch and even the kick stand switch as the push spring on the kick stand doesn't travel freely. I wanted to temporary disable the kill switches before I dive deep into the ignition switch.

I appreciate any advise!

I saw some post on taking the ignition switch out, I have replaced my stator and I work on my cars and bike, but just a little nervous when it comes to electrical stuff.

Thank you!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 01:24 AM
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Hey man,

The interlock takes three switches into account, neutral, clutch, and side stand. If the sidestand is up, then the position of the others is irrelevant. Since you're experiencing this issue when you move the handle-bars, it sounds like your clutch wire is probably going bad, but your sidestand switch must ALSO be bad in order for the clutch switch to kill the bike.

Best way to fix the sidestand is to pull both wires out of the side stand switch and splice them together, bypassing the switch completely.

To bypass the other two switches (which is unneccessary if you're just worrying about the bike shutting off, and aren't having starting issues) is to look up the "two wire mod". Please note that depending on how you do the "two wire mod", you may also have to do the "blue wire mod" in order for your headlight to work. The two and blue wire mods are both recommended to do in order to remove the junction box relays from use (and potentially frying the r/r and stator? proof not available), so ... yeah.


Of course, the ignition could also be the culprit, as you mentioned. If it only dies when you're turning the handle bars, it's more likely a broken ignition/killswitch wire (look for excessive wear at the neck) or a corroded connector being pulled on than the ignition puck.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
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Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 02:02 PM
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My 700 had the same issue. It had a bad ignition switch.

1985 700 Vulcan / Purchased 13,636 miles currently 19,126/Fork Seals & Dust Covers/Ignition Switch/AGM Battery/Hell Fire Windshield/River Roads Saddle Bags/Coil Relay Mod/2Wire Mod/RLU Bypass/Head Light Switch/Voltage monitor Green light/Mosfit R&R/Tuxedo Mod/Stator/Point Gap .020/ Dampers/Rear Signal & Brake Light LED'S/Rebuilt Shutoff Valve/Final Drive Gear Oil/Brake Shoes/Spline & Hub Lube/11 inch Progressive Shocks/De Goated/Engine Guard/Rejetted For K/N Pods/TOC mcct's
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys! I will start with the easy stuff, maybe bypass the side stand switch and or the Clutch first. Then look for wires around the ignition switch or maybe remove the switch and clean it .

I will put the bike on center stand and start it and turn the handle bars to see if I can duplicate the engine dying problem!
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 05:19 PM
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Check the wires coming out of the headlight bucket, and the plugs under the left neck cover.

edit: There's some posts on this problem, turning the bars kills the engine. Switch and it's wires, and the two areas mentioned above seem to stand out.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2020, 12:54 AM
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As far as the clutch and sidestand nanny switches, I recommend bypassing/removing them permanently. They are only there because of product liability lawyers, and serve no purpose for those that have actually learned to ride, other than to strand you when they fail, and they do fail. The first time I encountered one of these things, I didn't even know the bike had them. I had no tools, and no way of finding the problem, the starter just didn't work. Bike had to be hauled home in a truck. I then proceeded to diagnose the problem, and was furious when I found out what it was. I did a little research and found that the bike had two of the things. I immediately removed and bypassed both, and have done so on every bike I have owned since. On the Vulcan 750, both the clutch switch and the sidestand switch can be removed and the 2 wires going to each one connected together. I stripped the insulation off the ends, twisted them together, soldered them, and then covered them with 2 layers of heat shrink tubing. Problem solved. Permanently.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2020, 11:07 PM
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As a foil to Jerry's hardcore stance against everything:
I bypassed my starter safety switches shortly after joining the forum, and within the week absent-mindedly started the bike while standing to the side talking to someone to let it warm up. Turns out it was in gear, and it lurched forward and ended up on it's side. Obviously my fault, but I reconnected the safeties. I'm a moron, but I was able to get it through my thick skull that I'm a moron.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-03-2020, 11:37 PM
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I am a believer in FREEDOM. Freedom to live without being watched over by crazy safety laws and devices. We should be capable of deciding what is best for us. Just my opinion, but I don't think an absent minded person or a moron should be riding a motorcycle.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 01:24 AM
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Well, it's a good thing there's FREEDOM so this moron can still ride. I appreciate the support. *cough*

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is online now  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 09:17 AM
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Do you remove the safeties from your guns? Do you disable the air bags and cut the seatbelts out of your car? I’m willing to bet you don’t No one is “watching” over you. You just seem to have an issue with any kind of technological advance. I don’t think you can call someone absent minded because they shut the bike while still in gear. I call it a mistake, because everyone makes them. Especially if it’s a new rider. No one is perfect, and if a simple kill switch is going to help protect someone or save them some cash because they don’t have to repair their bike because they dropped it, then what’s so wrong with it? If it breaks, fine bypass it, but why tell folks to just do away it just because.
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