blowing main fuze - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
Neo
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blowing main fuze

This has probably been covered, but I thought would ask anyways. I recently picked up a non running, 1994 vn750 with about 7,5xx miles . PO told me he parked it after some electrical issues. He told me it rode great until one day it just died. He changed the Main fuse And the R/R. And it ran for a week and then died again. So he Parked it.. after i got the bike home I put a new battery in and as soon as I switch the ignition on It would blow the main 30amp. I found some melted wires but nothing shorted. I was curious so I unplugged the r/r and there was life! everything turns on and even the starter engages. But if I plug the r/r back in, the main fuse blows as soon as I turn the ignition on .... I tested the r/r with my multi meter and far as I can tell it checks out.. he also told me that the p/o changed out a faulty stator. Is it possibly that the stator itself is shorting out and blowing the fuse ? I’m pretty handy with a wrench but I tend to get confused trying to understand electrical any help would be great.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 12:51 PM
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Where were the melted wires? Black/yellow stripe are grounds.

Almost has to be the wires at the r/r, or the r/r itself.

2003-21k mi
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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The wires I found were . The white wire and the brown/white wires at the bullet connectors behind the left side air filter box. The casing of the bullet connector was melted . I believe they are ignition wires but not sure
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Update: I just went out and tested the 3 wires coming off the stator with my multi meter set on ohms I put the negative prong on the plug wire and the positive on the engine block and got a solid connection on each wire ... does this mean my stator is shot ?
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo View Post
Update: I just went out and tested the 3 wires coming off the stator with my multi meter set on ohms I put the negative prong on the plug wire and the positive on the engine block and got a solid connection on each wire ... does this mean my stator is shot ?
If the wires were unplugged, it means the stator is shorted to ground on all three legs. (which would be rare)

If the wires weren't unplugged, it's not a valid test.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 03-09-2020 at 09:34 AM.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 11:31 AM
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+1 to what Spockster said. The stator will measure as shorted if it is plugged in to the R/R, but should measure open line if unplugged.

You were right about the white and white/brown wires ... the white is voltage from the battery to the ignition switch, and the brown/white powers some accessories, but is also the monitor wire to the R/R, so there's definitely a short somewhere either in the R/R or the stator. You should get an open line reading from the positive lead on the R/R to the negative lead on the R/R. Likewise, there should be an open line reading from the positive lead on the R/R to all of the stator leads.

Unfortunately, the brown wire has little to do with those leads, and shouldn't really be carrying any current, just a voltage the circuit uses to see if the bike is getting the right voltage out of the charging system. If that wire is melting, there's likely a short in the the thyristors of the regulator causing an uncontrolled battery dump.

If you're willing to sacrifice another fuse, unplug the stator from the R/R, but leave the R/R plugged in to the bike's harness and turn the ignition on. If it blows, you're for sure looking at a bad R/R (and the stator should still be inspected, since they tend to die in pairs). If the R/R alone doesn't blow the fuse, you're looking at a bad stator.

Chances seem pretty high that your R/R has failed. If you have to replace, it's highly recommended to get a mosfet replacement instead of the OEM shunt style.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thank you for the input . I’ll do some more testing when I get home. The r/r was unplugged when I tested the stator Andrew it showed short on all 3 wires. I tested the r/r far as I could . I set my multi meter to diode, and tested each prong on the r/r one lead on positive, and read 1600-1700 on each. then I switch the lead to the negative and read only 500-600 on each. from what I read, It looked to me like it was ok. I ordered a cheap eBay stator to throw in for testing if it lasts cool if it dies hopefully it will last long enough to get the wiring figured out, and then Ill buy the better quality parts..lol.
Also I may have gotten some “luck” with this bike. hoping beyond hope I pulled The stator cover off and found that, to my amazement the previous owner had done. “the stator mod” so I shouldn’t have to pull the motor to replace it. I haven’t had to time disassemble it all to see how well he did but from what I seen it look decent
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo View Post
Ok thank you for the input . I’ll do some more testing when I get home. The r/r was unplugged when I tested the stator Andrew it showed short on all 3 wires. I tested the r/r far as I could . I set my multi meter to diode, and tested each prong on the r/r one lead on positive, and read 1600-1700 on each. then I switch the lead to the negative and read only 500-600 on each. from what I read, It looked to me like it was ok. I ordered a cheap eBay stator to throw in for testing if it lasts cool if it dies hopefully it will last long enough to get the wiring figured out, and then Ill buy the better quality parts..lol.
Also I may have gotten some “luck” with this bike. hoping beyond hope I pulled The stator cover off and found that, to my amazement the previous owner had done. “the stator mod” so I shouldn’t have to pull the motor to replace it. I haven’t had to time disassemble it all to see how well he did but from what I seen it look decent
You’re in luck with the stator mod then. If the leads are shorted to ground it’s definitely shot. OEM is pricey but I get really good voltage readings even at idle.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 12:49 PM
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The stator has to have all three of it's leads unplugged in order to test properly. The three bullet connectors are in the area above the transmission, but behind the rear cylinder. Been a while, but I think that's the general location.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The stator has to have all three of it's leads unplugged in order to test properly. The three bullet connectors are in the area above the transmission, but behind the rear cylinder. Been a while, but I think that's the general location.
Thanks I wouldn’t have known that but. They were all unplugged .. P.O cut off the bullets, and used but connections to wire to the 6 blade receiver plug that came with the R/R he put on. So all the R/R wires are unhooked when I’m testing.
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