blowing main fuze - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 02:47 PM
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Thanks I wouldn’t have known that but. They were all unplugged .. P.O cut off the bullets, and used but connections to wire to the 6 blade receiver plug that came with the R/R he put on. So all the R/R wires are unhooked when I’m testing.
Ok, I got it now. Depending on what they did with the headlight trigger (branch off one stator lead) it could still have one stator leg connected to the Junction Box. Should only affect the testing on that one leg.

Does your headlight come on as soon as you turn the key on, or only after cranking/starting the engine? If it doesn't come on with the key, the one leg is still connected to the JB.

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Okay I wondered about that actually....not that I knew it was connected wrong. just thought somthing was funky .. The light doesn’t come on with the key. I thought that was strange... my first road bike was a vn700 and I thought for sure the light ran off the battery so that makes sense why it wasn’t coming on. So when I get home Should I clip that connection and test again ?
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 03:52 PM
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Okay I wondered about that actually....not that I knew it was connected wrong. just thought somthing was funky .. The light doesn’t come on with the key. I thought that was strange... my first road bike was a vn700 and I thought for sure the light ran off the battery so that makes sense why it wasn’t coming on. So when I get home Should I clip that connection and test again ?
Well, it probably won't help. That is, assuming all the stator wiring is good, looks like it still has two legs shorted to ground.

Could also be something I'm missing, and disconnecting the headlight trigger could clear up the test.

We don't have any data for testing the stator while still connected to a circuit and my electrical theory is pretty half-assed.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Or maybe my old bike was messed up... After re reading your last post , and looking at the diagram. Im understanding that, there should be one leg split off, running to the jb and the light not coming on with just the key, is the way it’s supposed to be wired.and that I should only disconnect for testing. Sorry Sometimes it take me a minute lol
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 05:12 PM
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Or maybe my old bike was messed up... After re reading your last post , and looking at the diagram. Im understanding that, there should be one leg split off, running to the jb and the light not coming on with just the key, is the way it’s supposed to be wired.and that I should only disconnect for testing. Sorry Sometimes it take me a minute lol
Yes you've got it. There's a headlight relay in the JB that gets triggered by the AC volts from one leg of the stator. That's the factory setup.

Many of us did the Blue Wire mod to bypass this relay.

Back to what Thorn posted ... When it's not charging and blowing the main fuse, that's usually a problem in the wiring, connections, or the R/R itself.

Seems like most of the tests for the R/R involve ohm and continuity tests rather than diode tests. But I haven't looked at the manual lately.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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🤦‍♂️ Well now i have a dilemma. I should be getting the replacement stator in the mail in the next couple days. So I started removing the stator, and it appears the p.o didn’t do the best job on the stator mod. It looks like the stator has been rubbing on the rotor, which would explain why it was shorted out so bad. The plate they used to do the mode and mount the stator is also much thinner than I was expecting, and appears a little bent. Also the wires on the pickup coils were so brittle that they snapped at the coil when I went to move them aside .....and to top it off... while I was removing the pickup coils I broke generator cover. Not my day.... anyways I can’t decide if it’s worth continuing to fix this bike, or put it aside as a parts bike... I bought it not running for 450$ and it had Been outside for over a year uncovered. So it needs new brakes. New tires carb work and so on plus a few other odd things. It also won’t shift past second gear. P.o says it allways shifted fine. but idk and I don’t want to put 1000$ into a bike that may not even shift once I get done bringing it back to life. Especially when I can go buy a running vn750 for that... what do you guys think... the main reason I picked this bike up was the price and the odo only reads about 7500 miles. But it’s starting to burn through the cash pretty fast.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pictures of what’s I found
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 06:26 PM
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Ouch. Definitely an alignment problem, and a jagged cut on the case.

Sort of looks like one of the Xtreme mod plates, but the shape of the cutouts might be different, so maybe just homemade from the pattern that's available. Never saw one sunk in at the middle like that, any of the magnets have a chunk broken out?

Sitting in the weather is hard on the equipment. Hold off on repairs and see if there's another Vulcan available?

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Ouch. Definitely an alignment problem, and a jagged cut on the case.

Sort of looks like one of the Xtreme mod plates, but the shape of the cutouts might be different, so maybe just homemade from the pattern that's available. Never saw one sunk in at the middle like that, any of the magnets have a chunk broken out?

Sitting in the weather is hard on the equipment. Hold off on repairs and see if there's another Vulcan available?
That’s what I was thinking too thanks. And no chunks missing out of the stator, just real scratched up and that little piece of metal sticking out of The one coil leg not sure if it’s a broken wire from the windings or what ... such a shame people don’t take better care of their stuff. I hate to see such a low mile bike, that still looks half way decent be used for parts but is what it is.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 11:01 AM
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Doesn't look bad in the pic, I see aftermarket pipes, relocated rear turn signals, and the seat/backrest has been changed. Also has a crash bar/engine guard, maybe for a larger Vulcan, not sure, adapted Harley piece? I guess only you can decide if it's worth saving.

I won't post the list, but my bike was in worse shape and got all the mods before the first ride. Was able to find my parts here and on ebay, so I saved a bunch. Looks great today and I could still sell it for a reasonable price and get most of my money back. Have also put 6000 trouble-free miles on it. I paid $600 for it in 2013, it's a 2003.

Was thinking the rotor hit one of the stator coils and caused that kink in the mod plate.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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