Pickup coil wires - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-31-2020, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure we can trust that meter, reading 23v on the DC setting, I've tossed a few cheap meters. About $25-28 will get a decent one at Lowe's. There's just not that much voltage available. When you said it reads "23" in your last post, I thought maybe it was auto-switching to ohms, but you said it's on the DC setting.

You may be right about the CDI, maybe that's why someone tried to rob signal from the rear coil.

Did the tach work? Black wire off the 4-pin also runs to the tach. All terminals on the 4-pin (cdi) need to read 4-6 ohms.

Need to test the 6-pin @ the cdi too, and there's a wide range of ohm readings shown on the chart in the manual. Infinity, 0.9 to 1.7 ohm, 2 to 4 ohm, 3.6 to 6 ohm, 14 to 26 ohm, and 25 to 50 ohm, depending on the combination of terminals being tested.

If you're testing for continuity on the black wire, you should disconnect the 4-pin cdi plug, make sure the kill switch is set to run, then check between the 4-pin black and the end at the ignition coil.
Just to be super clear: you mean the cdi plug with pin #4, not the cdi plug with 4 pins, right? the pins on the 4 pin connection all have 4.1 - 4.3 ohms so that's good, the 6 pin is the one that reads "0" on the ones that should say infinity. (I wasn't sure if it can even display "infinity" though, as the pin for the working ignition coil also reads 0 instead of infinity)

And the tach sort of worked? it jumped around, jiggled a lot, and never read above 1500 even after revving it up.

But yeah, i'm 99% sure this multimeter is junk. I'll retry the wires/cdi box tonight with a better meter, and if the resistance is good I'll just splice in a new wire a few inches off the box for pin 4 straight to the coil. If that doesn't work, then it's time for a new CDI.

To rewire the tach, I'd assume I need to take the headlight off, but I can't figure out how exactly. Is there a special way to do it? the side bolts just keep spinning past a certain point.

Thanks a lot, you guys are very very helpful
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-31-2020, 04:18 PM
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Just to be super clear: you mean the cdi plug with pin #4, not the cdi plug with 4 pins, right?
No, I was referring to the cdi plug terminal with four pins. Those should all be 4-6 ohms, terminals 7, 8, 9, 10, all measured between each other.

Pin #4 (at the 6-pin terminal) should be infinite between all other terminals on the 6-pin on cdi. Pin #4 should show no connection at all to any terminal of the 4-pin outlet.

All the rest on the 6-pin outlet are the varied ohm readings from the chart. 0.9 to 50 ohms

I'm leaning toward the CDi myself, but it could still be the black wire. Your tach was probably jumping around initially because of the signal supplied from that jumper wire off the rear coil. This jumper has been disconnected now, correct?

2003-21k mi
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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No, I was referring to the cdi plug terminal with four pins. Those should all be 4-6 ohms, terminals 7, 8, 9, 10, all measured between each other.

Pin #4 (at the 6-pin terminal) should be infinite between all other terminals on the 6-pin on cdi. Pin #4 should show no connection at all to any terminal of the 4-pin outlet.

All the rest on the 6-pin outlet are the varied ohm readings from the chart. 0.9 to 50 ohms

I'm leaning toward the CDi myself, but it could still be the black wire. Your tach was probably jumping around initially because of the signal supplied from that jumper wire off the rear coil. This jumper has been disconnected now, correct?
Yes, the jumper is disconnected now.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 02:04 PM
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Yes, the jumper is disconnected now.
Ok good, and the tach is still erratic, correct?

If so, then it seems the trigger signal is erratic, inconsistent, from either the CDI, p/u coil for the front cyl., or a wiring problem.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok good, and the tach is still erratic, correct?

If so, then it seems the trigger signal is erratic, inconsistent, from either the CDI, p/u coil for the front cyl., or a wiring problem.
Yep, time to diagnose! I found a CDI for $50 on ebay so worst case scenario I won't be shelling out too much.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 06:26 PM
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If you still need a multi-meter I figure the auto parts stores should have one in their loaner program. Always best to test.

Problem could possibly be in the p/u coil circuit.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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If you still need a multi-meter I figure the auto parts stores should have one in their loaner program. Always best to test.

Problem could possibly be in the p/u coil circuit.
Fixed it!

Ran a higher gauge wire right off pin #4 to a smaller spade terminal to the front ignition coil and it worked perfectly. So that's the biggest problem out of way.

Now I need to rewire the tach, do you know how to access where the wiring to it is? I ask because there are 2 black wires going into the headlight assembly and I don't want to guess on which is which.

Thanks!
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 12:11 AM
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Great!

There's only one black wire at the tach, so you'll have to get in there. I welded the tach bracket, and that's as far as I've been. Three wires total on the tach.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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