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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
The flasher unit has to be compatible with the lights. If RPM has anything to do with it, and it shouldn't, it is still likely to be the flasher unit. Testing the stator and R/R is as simple as using a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals. At idle, it should be around 12V, maybe a bit less (running the bike at idle actually slowly drains the battery because the charging system does not put out enough current. When you run the RPM up to around 3000, the voltage should go up to at least 14.5V
I know nobody wants to hear this, but I'm on my third Vulcan 750, all 3 had/have the stock flasher unit and lights, and they have never caused a problem. The front signals are different, because they contain running lights. However, they use 2 filament bulbs, with a separate wire for each filament. You can use them on the rear, just don't connect the wire for the running lights. You still have to use the bulbs for the front, the front lights have 2 contacts in the socket, the rear ones only have one contact. The only modification I ever did to the turn signals was to switch to amber bulbs and clear lenses. Then I decided I liked the amber lenses better. I wish it were possible to get red lenses for the stock rear signals, so they could also be used as running lights. My Sportster has been converted so the rear signals, with red lenses, serve as turn signals, running lights, and brake lights.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike