Stator issue - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:47 PM
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I wonder - If you could mount the stator so it's insulated from the engine, would it still work if the windings contacted the core?
My question would be “why is it contacting?” Did the insulating coating melt?, if yes than why did it melt? Is it worth trying to figure that out
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:58 PM
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I wonder - If you could mount the stator so it's insulated from the engine, would it still work if the windings contacted the core?
I think that as long as there was only one short, that would work ... Interesting theory. Insulating the inside of the bolt holes would be the hardest part of testing it. I looked around briefly to see if anyone manufactured a plastic housing where the bolts are with embedded steel cores just under the windings, but that doesn't seem to be a thing. Hot oil might just be too harsh an environment for longevity. Maybe ream out the bolt holes and plastic bushings would hold up well enough to keep things spaced out without having to be particularly load bearing?
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 01:02 PM
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My question would be “why is it contacting?” Did the insulating coating melt?, if yes than why did it melt? Is it worth trying to figure that out


A spinning magnet over copper will cause the copper to generate it's own heat, in some cases the copper will glow orange. Over time, the coating probably deteriorates. Toss in a problem somewhere else in the electrical system, maybe creates more heat. Add in thermal expansion/contraction, where the wires may shift to wear the off the coating and/or contact the core.

Contacting the core let's the winding ground to the engine. That's why I'm wondering if the eddy current still happens if the windings touch an insulated core.

If it would work, three non-conductive sleeves and three fiber washers would fix this. But I'm thinking probably not, or surely this would've been done already.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 01:05 PM
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I think that as long as there was only one short, that would work ... Interesting theory. Insulating the inside of the bolt holes would be the hardest part of testing it. I looked around briefly to see if anyone manufactured a plastic housing where the bolts are with embedded steel cores just under the windings, but that doesn't seem to be a thing. Hot oil might just be too harsh an environment for longevity. Maybe ream out the bolt holes and plastic bushings would hold up well enough to keep things spaced out without having to be particularly load bearing?
I was thinking on the lines of maybe a fiberglas or bakelite bushing, and fiber washers.

Have seen some electrical mountings done similar to this, but don't recall what they were at the moment. Alternators?

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 01:41 PM
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I was thinking on the lines of maybe a fiberglas or bakelite bushing, and fiber washers.

Have seen some electrical mountings done similar to this, but don't recall what they were at the moment. Alternators?
Thinking on it more, even if this fixes one short to the body, it doesn't protect against multiple shorts, so the benefit is fairly limited. If one turn has failed, the one next to it is probably on it's way out too. Might last a month longer than it would have before it fails anyway. Makes you wonder if they beef up the insulation on motors heading into space where a single failure REALLY matters. Earth-bound manufacturers could definitely choose to add more insulation between the windings and the core, or around each wire strand, but it lowers the efficiency of the system. Add in cost of labor and parts, and it's probably just not economical to do it that way.

Mdub, any chance you want to give it a try with your old stator?

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 03:37 PM
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Thinking on it more, even if this fixes one short to the body, it doesn't protect against multiple shorts, so the benefit is fairly limited. ...
Mdub, any chance you want to give it a try with your old stator?
Except mdub's is putting out 60vac on all three legs. I didn't think that would happen, but it is. Seems like if that ground to the engine is eliminated, then the r/r can do it's job. You put 60vac into the r/r .. etc. As it is now, the voltage is grounded before it can get rectified to 12vdc.

Would need two insulating washers, and a non-conductive sleeve. Need the second washer behind the stator, between the stator and engine. And more than likely, three longer screws for the stator.

Might be more tricky with a mod plate. Maybe a rubber gasket involved.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 04:04 PM
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As it is now, the voltage is grounded before it can get rectified to 12vdc.
Pretty sure it's getting rectified to 12v nominal (14v?) but the ground voltage at the negative battery terminal is fluctuating due to AC bleeding out of the stator via the short.

To be sure, it would be best to plug the stator wires into the rectifier and check the output voltage directly on the pins of the rectifier instead of hooking it up to the harness and checking the voltage at the battery.

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