Stator issue - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:33 PM
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Electrically that’s not supposed to be, the regulator is the path to ground with these two parts. The stator should be isolated so the juice outputted can be put back into the system. By it being grounded the voltage basically wasted.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdub23 View Post
....

I just tried using the ohm readings to go from stator wire to ground and they came up around 1.3-1.5 ohms.
That's no good.

Has this meter ever lied to you?

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Electrically thatís not supposed to be, the regulator is the path to ground with these two parts. The stator should be isolated so the juice outputted can be put back into the system. By it being grounded the voltage basically wasted.
Shoot, so guessing that it's reading good voltage, but with it being grounded it's wasting that voltage that I'm reading? So basically, new stator time?

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That's no good.

Has this meter ever lied to you?
No, not that I know of at least.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:48 PM
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Does your bike have the stator plate mod? I’m just thinking of ways it could be shorted. Did it ever work right? Meaning did it put out the correct VDC?
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Does your bike have the stator plate mod? Iím just thinking of ways it could be shorted. Did it ever work right? Meaning did it put out the correct VDC?
I bought it from my coworker and it had a bad stator. No tuxedo mod, just pulled the engine and put it in manually. I had a crappy r/r that I purchased though which I'm guessing caused the issue. I just purchased a MOSFET one and have a spare stator from a spare engine that I purchased.
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 07:31 PM
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Gotcha.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 11:04 AM
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The voltage between two legs of the stator is determined by the how many windings are between them. What they DONT care about is if other chunks of metal are touching the windings at points in the middle (which is just a multi-tap transformer). So, a stator shorted to the housing (not shorted between windings) will still produce AC voltage between the legs even if there is contact between the windings and the stator body.

I bet if you check for AC current between the unplugged stator leads and the engine you'll see at least 20v when revving.

Which brings us to the rectifier. Once the rectifier is plugged in to the stator, it adds a SECOND path to the engine via the wire to the negative battery terminal. The voltage that would normally be forced "backwards" through the battery to charge it can now avoid the battery and flow directly back to the short in the stator windings. I don't know exactly what that would look like as far as voltages is concerned, but it's definitely mixing the AC and DC side of the rectification circuit, which is not good.

Since the ohm readings between the leads and ground are practically the same for each lead, it may be the center splice of the windings may be shorting to the stator body. If so, it may be possible to fix the stator by adding insulation between those two electrical components without having to rewind/buy a new one. Still a PITA though.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The voltage between two legs of the stator is determined by the how many windings are between them. What they DONT care about is if other chunks of metal are touching the windings at points in the middle (which is just a multi-tap transformer). So, a stator shorted to the housing (not shorted between windings) will still produce AC voltage between the legs even if there is contact between the windings and the stator body.

I bet if you check for AC current between the unplugged stator leads and the engine you'll see at least 20v when revving.

Which brings us to the rectifier. Once the rectifier is plugged in to the stator, it adds a SECOND path to the engine via the wire to the negative battery terminal. The voltage that would normally be forced "backwards" through the battery to charge it can now avoid the battery and flow directly back to the short in the stator windings. I don't know exactly what that would look like as far as voltages is concerned, but it's definitely mixing the AC and DC side of the rectification circuit, which is not good.

Since the ohm readings between the leads and ground are practically the same for each lead, it may be the center splice of the windings may be shorting to the stator body. If so, it may be possible to fix the stator by adding insulation between those two electrical components without having to rewind/buy a new one. Still a PITA though.
Ah, that makes much more sense. So it's putting out voltage, but basically since it has another ground lead it can "leak" out the actual voltage doesn't get to the battery. I have a spare stator from a spare engine I bought, and I just bought a MOSFET r/r, so I'm going to take a weekend and get everything hooked up. Thanks!

Last edited by mdub23; 09-18-2019 at 11:22 AM.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:15 PM
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That’s what I was getting at in my first post. If you look at an electrical diagram of the two components. The stator does not go to ground directly but through the rectifier. Here’s a basic schematic that shows that.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:23 PM
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I wonder - If you could mount the stator so it's insulated from the engine, would it still work if the windings contacted the core?

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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