Bike dies when turning handle bars to the right - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hench View Post
About the battery voltages are those readings from when the bike would start?



Is the not starting intermittent or solid failure now?



Have you checked the battery voltage after sitting for a couple of hours. If so what was it? You have a wet cell battery if I recall correctly.


That was from when the bike would start. Before starting, it is at 12.38 and has been going up from there. That was after letting it sit for a few days. Yes, it is a wet cell battery. I wiggled all of the wires with the bars off to the right, to no avail.


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'86 VN750 with the following work done to it, after sitting for 19 years:
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REV 3:9
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 10:09 PM
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OK, you've wiggled the wires with no result.

With the bars to the right and the ignition on, are all the front lights, instrument and dash lights on?

With the run switch on an you hit the start button does the starter relay click?

Do you have a 3 amp charger? Can you charge the battery? Are all the cells to the full mark? O'Reiley's can load test it. And they have an AGM motorcycle battery for 85 bucks. I just had to replace mine.

After that it's back to tracing wires one by one for an open or short. All black/yellow should show ground.

If I recall, you don't have a meter just a continuity light. There' a way to use that but it's nasty! 8~)

2003 VN750
Velorex 562 sidecar w/trunk
2-wire mod
Headlight power switch
Manual fan switch
Shingigen SH775
Blue wire mod
Yellow wire mod
RLU removed
RR moved
Voltmeter relay wired
Coils direct wired w/relay
TOC MCCTs
handicap mods:
extended foot shift
heel shifter
extended brake pedal
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSattler View Post
That was from when the bike would start. Before starting, it is at 12.38 and has been going up from there. That was after letting it sit for a few days. Yes, it is a wet cell battery. ....
12.4v is 50% charged, or half dead depending how you want to look at it.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSattler View Post
That was from when the bike would start. Before starting, it is at 12.38 and has been going up from there. That was after letting it sit for a few days. Yes, it is a wet cell battery. ....
12.4v is 50% charged, or half dead depending how you want to look at it.
I vote half dead, especially for a wet cell battery. I’ve learned the hard way how bad they suck.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hench View Post
OK, you've wiggled the wires with no result.



With the bars to the right and the ignition on, are all the front lights, instrument and dash lights on?



With the run switch on an you hit the start button does the starter relay click?



Do you have a 3 amp charger? Can you charge the battery? Are all the cells to the full mark? O'Reiley's can load test it. And they have an AGM motorcycle battery for 85 bucks. I just had to replace mine.



After that it's back to tracing wires one by one for an open or short. All black/yellow should show ground.



If I recall, you don't have a meter just a continuity light. There' a way to use that but it's nasty! 8~)


All of the lights are on. I took apart the starter switch, which had corrosion, and cleaned that. So when I hit the spot on the range of motion (not all of the way to the right, it’s just a small little sliver that you can see in the video), the starter button will not work. Up until and past that, it works as it should. I will throw it on the charger, and I got a multimeter yesterday. I will have to get the agm, but this bike is turning into a money pit lol. I still need the brake lines, turn signals and fork seals. I have a new petcock rebuild kit coming, so once that comes in, and the tank is empty, I will take the tank off.

I also want to check the coolant lines when I have the tank off. It seemed that someone poured a ton of oil in the coolant reservoir. The rear cylinder coolant drain was plugged when I flushed the system. I think running the bike has dislodged the sludge, as there’s a film floating in the reservoir tank. Since I have had it running, the temp stays in the center, so I don’t think head gasket. I will reflush the system again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750 with the following work done to it, after sitting for 19 years:
John 8:44
REV 2:9
REV 3:9
www.voat.co
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 11:18 AM
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All "project" bikes are money pits. Mine was but when finished you'll love it. I do mine. Once I got past the noise these VN750 engines make that is! 8~)

With the bars at the dead spot continuity check all wires to start button and the run switch to see if you have an open that is pulling apart under stress.

Disconnect the battery, make sure the cells are topped off and charge it fully. Meter the voltage to see what the initial charge is. Let it sit disconnected for 4-5 hours for the surface charge to bleed off and meter again. Less than 12.8 is a weak battery.

The AGM battery seems to cure other issues. These bikes love volts at starting.

2003 VN750
Velorex 562 sidecar w/trunk
2-wire mod
Headlight power switch
Manual fan switch
Shingigen SH775
Blue wire mod
Yellow wire mod
RLU removed
RR moved
Voltmeter relay wired
Coils direct wired w/relay
TOC MCCTs
handicap mods:
extended foot shift
heel shifter
extended brake pedal
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 11:24 AM
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For diagnosing starting/running issues I find it way better to just hook the bike up to a car battery with the car turned off. Those big car batteries can start the bike several more times and with better cold cranking amps than even the AGM batteries. That was how I figured out my last AGM was bad, and confirmed that there were no other electrical issues than the battery.

In this case it doesn't seem like the battery is necessarily the culprit, but may be discharged right now.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubertalldude View Post
For diagnosing starting/running issues I find it way better to just hook the bike up to a car battery with the car turned off. Those big car batteries can start the bike several more times and with better cold cranking amps than even the AGM batteries. That was how I figured out my last AGM was bad, and confirmed that there were no other electrical issues than the battery.

In this case it doesn't seem like the battery is necessarily the culprit, but may be discharged right now.
I don’t think the battery is your culprit either but it could just be a casualty. When my stator died last month I needed a few jumps to get the bike the 20 miles back home. That and I’m sure it sat long at the dealership where I got it fixed seemed to kill it. I was able to charge it but it didn’t hold it as well as it did before the stator crapping out. Using the bikes battery to troubleshoot electrical issue will strain it for sure
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Not to sound stupid, but I thought it was a 12v battery, so wouldn't 12.4 volts be spot on? I took it out tonight, and I think it is working the bugs out of the drive train. It is actually much more snappy than it was at first. I will take the tank off soon. I also saw the emgo wide swept handlebars. I wanted something that was similar to the road king (I think the handle bars feel perfect), so I am hoping these are it. Once I get back from my vacation, I will order those, and will probably have to lengthen the wires to get them to fit the wider handlebars.

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750 with the following work done to it, after sitting for 19 years:
John 8:44
REV 2:9
REV 3:9
www.voat.co
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSattler View Post
Not to sound stupid, but I thought it was a 12v battery, so wouldn't 12.4 volts be spot on? I took it out tonight, and I think it is working the bugs out of the drive train. It is actually much more snappy than it was at first. I will take the tank off soon. I also saw the emgo wide swept handlebars. I wanted something that was similar to the road king (I think the handle bars feel perfect), so I am hoping these are it. Once I get back from my vacation, I will order those, and will probably have to lengthen the wires to get them to fit the wider handlebars.
You don’t sound stupid, although I understand what it means it wasn’t something I was thinking about often until I got my bike

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