Yet Another Charging System Issue - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yet Another Charging System Issue

Found my battery dead last week and started poking around for what to check. Bike is an '05 with about 12.5k miles on it.

I hadn't been watching the volt meter and it turns out I was getting nothing to the battery while running. I pulled the r/r and checked the continuity/ohms on the pins and it's not reading anything. I checked the continuity between the yellow stator inputs and they seemed ok but they also had a reading to the chassis. Two of the pairs seem to put out decent AC voltage and the other was lower (measured at low rpm idle).

At this point, I'm working on the assumption that the r/r is dead and the stator is shorting.

The motor/electrical haven't been modified in any significant way.

Based on the info I found here, I ordered a "super mosfet kit" from roadstercycle. I have questions about the rewiring bypassing the harness as it seems to leave a wire (was it load splitting?).

I do have the Clymer book for reference.

Also, I'm not sure of the current "best practices" when it comes to the stator. I saw the $450+ kit from TOC but it doesn't include the stator. I might have the resources to do the machining on the cover and get one of the plate kits from gcextreme or similar. Stators from partzilla are currently $340.

I'm hoping a new r/r will get it to run through the end of the season (unless that is a really bad idea for some reason).

If I get into the motor far enough to get the cover off, what else should I be doing while I'm in there?

Thanks in advance for the support and for keeping this great source of information alive!

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 11:08 AM
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I'm not clear about your question on wiring the new r/r.

Thorn recently uncovered a possible misprint on the test procedures for the r/r in the repair manual. Maybe he can shine some light there.

If the stator is testing defective, the new r/r won't get you through the season, or the first ride. It has to charge the battery or you're going to get stranded on the side of the road.

Check the damper bushings while you're in there.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 04:01 PM
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So, the R/R should definitely have continuity between a lot of the pins though the ohm values listed in the manual may be incorrect (or only correct when measured using a multi-lead kawasaki-dealer device). Basically, there should always be a path from the DC negative side to all yellow wires, and always a path from yellow wires to dc positive. Path between yellow leads SHOULD exist, but might not depending on the exact circuit, and might not register until a certain voltage difference between the leads is achieved (more than 14v, more than the standard multimeter would be trying to push).

Connecting to a partially-shorted stator is probably death for the R/R. The stators and rectifiers seem to live or die together. Stator overheats if the R/R dies, R/R blows components if the stator shorts.

The mosfet R/Rs often do not need the brown "monitor" wire that the stock R/R does, so just the three yellow wires, the black/yellow ground, and the white V+.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

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Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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I guess my main question is, what is the current go-to stator and side cover mod in 2019?

I'll test again after wiring up the new r/r this weekend (hopefully).

I was getting ohm readings from the yellow wires at the r/r to negative battery terminal. That's what led me to believe it was shorted out.

Jordan

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin'sRavens View Post
I guess my main question is, what is the current go-to stator and side cover mod in 2019?

I'll test again after wiring up the new r/r this weekend (hopefully).

I was getting ohm readings from the yellow wires at the r/r to negative battery terminal. That's what led me to believe it was shorted out.
I just had my stator replaced, went with an OEM stator. Made the decision to go through that once and that’s it because it hurt my wallet. I have no place to do a job like that. If I read the thread right you said your stator is testing continuity to the chassis. If that’s the case it’s shot. So that’s probably going to need to be replaced 1st or you’ll fry a new R/R. And even though it’s pricey the TOC stator cover plate is a good bet. All depends on how much you love the bike.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 10:01 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Vu...oAAOSwvgdW6eUb

There's the Tux Mod plate for $90.

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I saw that one. If I end up doing the work myself, I'll probably go that route. I'll still remove the engine though to prevent contamination.

If I take it to a shop, I'll not want to interrupt them to say "give me that cover when you get it off and i'll cut a giant hole in it".

I figure while the engine is out I should do the ACCT to MCCT conversion as well.

So I'm thinking about buying everything TOC has and selling him my old cover.

Jordan

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone know if the stators from Ricks are decent? They are coming up on a sale too.

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...-Stator-21_203

Jordan

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 12:06 PM
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I didn’t have an option to attempt this myself, no garage or space in the city. Having that modified plate would definitely bring peace of mind, but I’d be really hesitant to cut it while still on the bike. Yeah, people have been successful with it but I know my own luck.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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So I got the R/R in, cut the stator wires off before the original crimps. The readings at around 2kRPM between the 3 pairs go something like 8VAC, 18VAC, 24VAC. Again I checked from this point to the negative battery terminal and they all had continuity.

The stator is definitely messed up. The rick's coupon for 10% off went up today (FREEDOM). It's good for a few days for online orders only. Using that, I ordered a new stator for $130 shipped.

Just because, I went ahead and wired everything up (including blue-wire headlight relay bypass). I left the battery to charge overnight and checked the charging voltage using my voltmeter/USB ports. It reads a bit low so these numbers will be a little fudged.

At bike off: 13VDC
At bike idle: 12.3VDC
At bike 4kRM: 13.3VDC

So it is putting out a small amount of charge. You think it will damage the R/R if I run it?

I also bit the bullet and ordered everything TOC had. I still haven't decided if I'm going to pay someone to tear into it since I do have some space available to do the work.

At this point I'm waiting on parts.

Did I see a simplified stator removal procedure that doesn't involve completely tearing down the engine? I'll do a search again but if someone knows the thread, that would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone and happy independence day! Be safe out there.

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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