Yet Another Charging System Issue - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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I'm having trouble locating specifics on how to get at those dampers behind the stator.

The bike says to open the right side and work from the other end. (Unless I'm reading that wrong.)

From what I gather, I have to remove the rotor and a wheel to get at them. What is the best way to change these things? Can it be done without opening the right side?

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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It seems like this thread might have the info in looking for.

https://www.vn750.com/#/topics/78729

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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That was a hard two days work.

I probably should have pulled the motor all the way out instead of swinging it to the side with a ratchet strap. I think the main issue was the stock air system jamming everything up.

Re meshing the drive shaft was miserable. Getting it apart was a pain but putting it back together was worse.

My original damper bushings were falling out so it was probably a good idea to replace them. My rotor was really stuck on there too.

At this point it is all back together and running even if a little rough. I need to adjust the MCCTs. Any advice on doing that? I don't know how you are supposed to do the right side since there is no room to put wrenches on anything over there.

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 06:56 PM
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I have the TOC MCCTs. Warm/ride the bike until normal operating temp. Install the front(left) MCCT. Turn the adjuster in until you feel slight resistance. Snug the lock nut. Start the bike. loosen lock nut and turn adjuster in until you get the least clicking. Tighten lock nut. That's the easy one

Stop the engine. Remove the coolant bottle on the right side and let it hang upright. Use something to secure it. Install the MCCT and initially adjust the same way. Start the bike and finish the adjustment. Rev it a bit and listen. When it sounds "right" check and retighten the lock nuts. Hold the adjuster with a wrench to keep it from turning, install the coolant bottle and ride a bit

Use 2 17mm wrenches.

Hard starting/bad idle, too tight. Still clinking, too loose.

You'll probably hear a "hooing" sound of the chains going over the guides. I'm told this is normal. Just how loud is "normal" I can't say as mine is the only VN750 in town and have nothing to compare with.

Also! While you're installing the MCCTs and have the ACCT out, don't let the engine turn over! You might jump timing.
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2003 VN750
Velorex 562 sidecar w/trunk
2-wire mod
Headlight power switch
Manual fan switch
Shingigen SH775
Blue wire mod
Yellow wire mod
RLU removed
RR moved
Voltmeter relay wired
Coils direct wired w/relay
TOC MCCTs
handicap mods:
extended foot shift
heel shifter
extended brake pedal

Last edited by Hench; 07-21-2019 at 07:04 PM. Reason: added info
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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So I already have both of them installed. (Started with the finger tight and back off a half turn.)

The first start after putting the motor back together and refilling the fluids was low RPM, no high idle like it usually did. Wouldn't idle without choke.

I backed off a little more on both and got the high idle like I used to get and it idles without choke.

I was letting it idle and checking the charge (which was about 14+V at 900RPM). I opened the throttle a little bit and held it at 2kRPM. It was sputtering a bit and then at 3kRPM it was OK again.

By sputtering I mean running OK with occasional spit/dip in RPM. It just wasn't smooth.

I'll unmount the coolant bottle and hang it from the frame, reset the MCCTs to finger tight - .75 turns, run it around the block, and then start fiddling with it.

Unless you think I should re-install one of the ACCTs and do them one at a time.

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 11:23 AM
2003 Vulcan 750/Sidecar
 
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If they're in leave them in.

After installing mine and feeling the chain with the adjusters. I tightened the lock nuts and started the bike and let it warm while I removed the coolant bottle. One at a time I turned the adjusters in until I felt the chain wasn't banging against the adjuster. Did the same for the other one. Then rode the bike a bit to normal operating temp.

After it was hot, I adjusted the mccts to get quietest chain noise. I don't think you should get all the clink out. I'm told these are noisy engines.

Also! just above the mccts you'll see a large chrome cap that screws in/out. Behind these caps are springs that control the chain guide tension also. Over time these seem to get weak. I removed these and put in a small washer, then the spring and reinstalled. This seemed to help also.

2003 VN750
Velorex 562 sidecar w/trunk
2-wire mod
Headlight power switch
Manual fan switch
Shingigen SH775
Blue wire mod
Yellow wire mod
RLU removed
RR moved
Voltmeter relay wired
Coils direct wired w/relay
TOC MCCTs
handicap mods:
extended foot shift
heel shifter
extended brake pedal
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I took it out for a ride this evening after fiddling with them in the driveway. Lost power when I hit third. I came back and loosened them a bolt face and it seemed ok. It felt like there was a little more engine breaking than usual and was working a little harder. When I got back, I loosened them another bolt face.

I see the large bolts with a chrome flange thing there above the tensioners. Hopefully I don't need to mess with them since I only have 13.4k miles on the bike.

Thanks for the help, all. It was immensely helpful.

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
No Mods (Yet)
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