Yet Another Charging System Issue - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 02:45 PM
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Sounds like you got everything you need. There’s a procedure to “tilt” the engine as opposed to completely removing it. The big concern I’ve read is to make sure the shifter is clear of the frame because if it gets bent you’ll be even more [email protected]&ked. You’ll still need to remove most of the same things but I’ll let the others who’ve done it weigh in there.

As to riding with a shot stator, I think it’s prob a bad idea, a path to ground that shouldn’t be there is a short. Could fry the R/R, and at the very least will overwork the battery which prob won’t last long p/ride and ultimately will need to be replaced. So you’ll be adding that cost to your total spend.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 03:21 PM
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Thinking of it electrically If the stator isn’t connected it shouldn’t hurt the R/R, but most importantly you’re asking to get stuck when that battery loses its juice. I didn’t ride far before my bike stalled out and my portable jumpstarter didn’t have enough. Had to wait for jump, just for it to stall again a mile or so from home.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 04:29 PM
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https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-elect...ancer-job.html

For me, the advantage of doing the engine tilt, was not having to lift the engine back into place, and I was able to leave the carbs/cables, bevel gear, and exhaust manifolds in place.

I kept it sitting on a floor jack and suspended by two ratchet straps. .. and still almost dropped it.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-elect...ancer-job.html

For me, the advantage of doing the engine tilt, was not having to lift the engine back into place, and I was able to leave the carbs/cables, bevel gear, and exhaust manifolds in place.

I kept it sitting on a floor jack and suspended by two ratchet straps. .. and still almost dropped it.
Thanks for the reference. I probably won't get the parts until next week. For now, I'll be driving to work the boring way.

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Check the damper bushings while you're in there.
You talking about parts 92075-1747 and 92075-1748? Partzilla has them in stock and I can get a whole set for $60 shipped.

I did a little searching on here and it seems that if they fail it would be really bad for the motor. Should I just change them while I have the cover off? I suppose they cannot be changed through the modified side cover stator hole from TOC.

Jordan

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin'sRavens View Post
You talking about parts 92075-1747 and 92075-1748? Partzilla has them in stock and I can get a whole set for $60 shipped.

I did a little searching on here and it seems that if they fail it would be really bad for the motor. Should I just change them while I have the cover off? I suppose they cannot be changed through the modified side cover stator hole from TOC.
That's what I did, just replaced them while I was in there. Old ones were still tight.

Didn't check your part numbers, but there is two part numbers for the whole set.

Cover mod doesn't help with access to the bushings.

Pay attention to all the alignment marks on the damper weight, damper shaft, damper gear, and rotor. Triple check it, or it will shake like a paint shaker, no kidding.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Found a thread listing some parts that I didn't order yet.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engin...arts-list.html

I'll pick them up the missing ones while waiting on the TOC parts.

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin'sRavens View Post
Found a thread listing some parts that I didn't order yet.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engin...arts-list.html

I'll pick them up the missing ones while waiting on the TOC parts.
Glad you found my thread, I hoped it would be of use and was about to post it myself.

The dampers are a good idea while you're in there. I pulled my engine to replace them, but ultimately I didn't really need to, I think I was just being paranoid about vibrations. Regardless, the parts list I posted was all inclusive for every part disturbed in disassembly.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 01:53 PM
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I also replaced the shifter shaft seal, was leaking a bit. About $5 back then.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 07:35 PM
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I don't know where to get a good stator anymore. I got mine from TPE, but they are no longer in business. It was a rewound one, and I sent them my old burned up one so they could rewind it and sell it. If there is one thing I have to say about replacing stators, it is DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES install the tuxedo mod with the cover on the engine. You will fill the engine with metal shavings. It would be a shame to destroy a 12,000 mile engine in a 2005 bike just to save a little trouble or money. When I bought my '97 a few months ago, I took the 3 screw cover off to make sure it had not been cut up. The TOC cover is ridiculously expensive, but if you have a like new bike, and don't plan to modify it, it might be worth it. As expensive as it is, it won't seem that way if the stator fails again. I also highly recommend their MCCTs, I have a set myself.

The Vulcan 750 is getting so old and are so cheap now that many owners are chopping them up and making a lot of modifications to them. I have bought 2 brand new ones, left both mostly stock except for defective parts like the cam chain tensioners, and got 108,000 miles out of the last one. It failed due to a broken cam chain, which might not have happened if the oem tensioners weren't defective. I may have damaged the chains and guides early on when the oem tensioners failed.

I also highly recommend removing the engine completely the first time. It is so much easier to get to everything, and you can check/replace the balancer dampers at the same time. It took me about 6 months to replace the stator because other things kept getting in the way. I practically stripped the whole bike down to make it easy to get the engine out. I had a home made wooden dolly I built to remove air cooled VW engines with, I just rolled it under the engine, put shims between it and the engine till it fit tight, removed the mount bolts, and rolled the engine out from under the bike. By removing the front manifold, I was able to get it out without removing the front bevel gearcase.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


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