Hotwire help please - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:23 AM
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The hot wire from your start button can run to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid.

Is your goal just to get it running, or to make it roadworthy? You're going to need a fuse box and connections for lights, and a control circuit for the fan.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 10:18 AM
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I have a question aside from electrical. In your second post you say "There are no accessories. No gauges, ignition switch, shut off switch, lights, ECT."

Are these not mounted or did they not come in the boxes? Do you have the hand control assemblies? IE, throttle, clutch?

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Velorex 562 sidecar w/trunk
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for all the replies gents. I have zero doubt without you guys heloing that this would be yet one other "never go anywhere projects".

I only want/ need to get the motor running. I am not looking/needing it road worthy.

Sorry, I do have the other ignition coil,just didn't not picture it. I have no other accessories whatsoever.

I do have the starter solenoid and the main positive wire which runs from the pos batt terminal. I also have the small wire which goes with it and plugs into the JB.
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Last edited by Joed500; 06-23-2019 at 09:10 PM.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joed500 View Post

I do have the starter solenoid and the wire which runs to it from the pos battery terminal, BUT no associated small wire which as you said should run to the JB.

So given what we've talked about, I feel like I am (kind of) close be being able to run this thing?.
You said you had a switch to use as a start button? Just run one side of that switch to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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So following Thorn's insight, ;

*Run a main from pos battery terminal to starter solenoid,

*run (or locate) small wire to connect from starter solenoid terminal to #1 pin in junction box,

*???? Then connect the ignition coils to the two small connecting wires from the harness and run direct hot wire from the positive Bart terminal as shown in the "coil bypass" mod thread????.

I owe you all a (few) beer after this.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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So in moving forward;

*connect main positive from battery to ignition.

*connect small red/white wire (pictured in previous post) to wire harness red/white wire which runs to JB.

*connect ignition coils with x2 small wire connections from wire harness AND main wire bypass as outlined I. 'Ignition coil bypass mod' thread.

* then???? In theory all required electrical hooked up to run engine?
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 02:15 PM
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Sounding good.

Make sure you've got a good ground from the frame to the negative battery terminal too.

Michiganteddybear asked some good questions. I don't see a CDI box in your photos either. Absolutely needed. And a second ignition coil.

Spockster mentioned the spade terminals on the starter solenoid. You'll need to take a wire from v+, through a switch/button, to spade, then from the other spade to ground. Not sure which wires go to which terminals. Post back if you can't find that info.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Okay; last piece of the puzzle guys. I have the cdi box from the guy I got the bike from.

Took pictures (see attached). Is the last step running leads from the cdi box bare terminals to the coils? Or am I missing a hook up which should be clipped in the bare terminals?
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 09:06 PM
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on the igniter box. that is the wrong connector plugged into it. that connector is for the R/R.. and not needed to just see if the engine will run.

I am going to say (dont quote me, I may be wrong here) that in order to start it, you need to feed the igniter box with 12V, GND, 2 pickup coil signals (2 wires each), and the outputs to the ignition coils. there is another input that is active when the start button is pushed, but we do not know exactly what it does, but theories are it may adjust the timing during starting.

on the engine, the pickup coils are behind the cover on left side of engine where the stator is. there should be wires from the stator (3 yellow ones), and 4 wires from the 2 pickup coils exiting from the top of the left side engine cover.

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 10:39 PM
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Solid thumbs up to what MTB said.
The best way to deal with the CDI box is to plug in the proper 6-wire connector from the wiring harness (dark green, red, black, red/white, black/yellow, black/white), and a 4-wire connector from the pickup coils (not part of the harness. black/yellow, black, black/red, black/white). The harness should have connectors on it that hook up directly to the ignition coils (two red, which can go to either coil's positive, a black, and a dark green for the two negatives, which need to go to the proper front/back coils).
Once those are all hooked up, the battery hookup as previously mentioned should work as intended.

I think the ignition coil mod linked to earlier would leave the red wires disconnected from the coils, and would jump power more directly from the battery terminal. Might not be worth messing with when trying to fire up the very first time. The more wires you chop when you don't know exactly what's what, the more difficult things will be for you down the road.

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