Charging issue - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 12:26 PM
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12.5v at idle isn't enough, but might be ok if you don't sit around idling. The problem will be in stop/go traffic when the fan is running. Everything at that point will be running off the battery. ... ignition, headlight, fan, brake, tail, running lights, etc.

14.2v @ 2500+ will work.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The two wires with infinity are broken?

edit: >>> Somebody check me on this. Thorn, Tony, MTB .. anyone. I've struggled with the definition of 'infinity' in this sense lately.

Experts say infinity to ground on a stator test is good. Meaning no connection to ground.

So infinity on the wire test means no connection?

My Meter only shows OL, Open Loop, have not seen ∞ , the infinity symbol.
Yeah, open loop is the same as infinite resistance. No current is passing between the two leads.
There should be infinite resistance between each of the stator leads and the bike frame/ground, and the resistance between each stator lead to any other stator lead should be roughly the same as any other pair.

I took a peek at the online manual's ohm test chart for the R/R, and it appears that there is a typo, and the row/column labels have the +/- designations REVERSED from what they should read. You should be able to get a reading when connecting the positive test lead to an AC pin, and the negative test lead to the Battery pin. Current should not flow the opposite direction, so positive to Battery and negative to AC pin would be OL/infinite resistance.

For what it's worth, the Haynes manual does not include a version of the R/R ohm test chart, and says that standard ohmmeters are prone to give false readings, and that a special Kawasaki tester is needed. Possibly the regulator shunting circuit can do some unexpected things when not being properly powered on the AC side? *shrug* Anyway, be aware of R/Rs testing as failed when they may actually still be good? Maybe?

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
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Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 09:22 PM
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Maybe flex those stator wires while checking, seems like there's a break somewhere.


I should plug my r/r back in and see if it works, it's still under the battery box.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Last question after a bunch of testing it appears about 13 at idle and 14.2 at 3000. When the fan is on at idle is drops to 12.5 when brought to 3000 it is 13 to 13.2.
Just checking that this is an acceptable range I know the fan is a large electrical load.
Bike runs good now onto the next issue (seperate post) of why I am getting a burning smoke by the rear exhaust (nothing touching that could make smoke other than the rubber motor mount spacers.)

Last edited by N01290088; 06-23-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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And I just cut off all the old wire but connectors and put new ones on (I think that was the issue with the stator wiring)
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 03:41 PM
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As long as you're aware, 12.5v isn't charging at all, and don't spend long periods idling. The fan should cut off after you're cruising 35mph or higher.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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The bike rarely sits and idles it’s basically a work commuter for the guy who owns it. Also that is at 900-1000 rpm where I set it. I see now that idle should be 1100-1200. I’ll bump it up and see what I get. At least it’s at 14 over any rpm where the clutch is out
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 10:55 PM
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Hi all,
I got my vulcan about 2 years ago w/ 6500 miles on it and have been doing basic maintenance and cosmetics.

Found my battery dead last week and started poking around for what to check.

I hadn't been watching the volt meter and it turns out I was getting nothing to the battery while running.

I pulled the r/r and checked the continuity/ohms on the pins and it's not reading anything.

I checked the continuity between the yellow stator inputs and they seemed ok but they also had a reading to the chassis. Two of the pairs seem to put out decent AC voltage and the other was lower.

At this point, I'm working on the assumption that the r/r is dead and the stator is shorting.

Based on the info I found here, I'm looking at getting a super mosfet kit from roadstercycle. But I'm not sure of the current "best practices" when it comes to the stator.

I saw the $400+ kit from TOC but it doesn't include the stator.

I might have the resources to do the machining on the cover and get one of the plate kits from gcextreme or similar.

If I get into the motor far enough to get the cover off, what else should I be doing?

Thanks in advance for the support and for keeping this great source of information alive!

Jordan

'05 VN750 (12.5k miles)
Western Pennsylvania
No Mods (Yet)
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