Here’s a question - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Here’s a question

Has anyone installed any of these H4 anti-flicker adapters? I put in an LED headlight (bulb only) and I haven’t done the mod to bypass the RLU to shut off the headlight failure light on the dash yet. The only time I noticed flicker was when I was stopped in traffic at idle, but still it wasn’t constant. Never gave it much thought to whether or not it was related to the RLU bursting or if it was just my stator preparing to crap out, which it did on Memorial Day. I’m not anti-mod, but if I don’t need to change something I do not want to because unless I get a house with a garage I don’t plan on keeping the bike forever and it’ll be a trade in on my next bike (hopefully a Kaw 900 custom). Would one of these adapters provide the same result and make the RLU work as intended. Just curious
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 06:50 PM
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Some people install units to make their headlight flicker as a safety feature.

My LED tail lights flicker a bit at idle.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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That’s understandable from a safety perspective, And I haven’t noticed any flicker in my taillights. What I’m curious about is whether or not the inline anti-flicker adapter will turn off the headlight failure indicator on the dash
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:23 PM
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Only if it adds enough resistance in the wiring to fool the RLU.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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I found this, it matches the bulb I’m using. Plus it’ll take less room in the bucket than the others I was looking at

SEALIGHT H4/HB2/9003 LED Resistor Kit Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMZVP1Z..._WiX9Cb9B70DJ7
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 09:46 PM
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Probably also cancels out any power savings, if that's what you're going for with LEDs. Same as with load resistors for LED turn signals.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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After reading about the rectifiers and stators crapping out because they’re being caused to dump too much load, I’m not sure I’m overly concerned about saving power. The benefit of LED for me is the brightness more than anything. I’m learning this electrical system is borderline fragile and this might help it stay balanced. I don’t have much added other than driving lights.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:17 AM
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You need to add a constant current driver circuit or smoothing capacitor. High end LED specifically designed for headlight applications should come with this built in to compensate for power noise. If you wire in a plain LED bulb, then you need to add the circuit yourself.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ca...CABEgKDBPD_BwE


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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The LED bulb I bought does have the circuit inline. I only see an occasional flicker at idle, but not constantly. What I’m trying to figure out is since my original bulb used 55-60w and my LED bulb uses a max of 40w, the RLU thinks I have a blown bulb and is constantly switching. I have read on here that you can bypass the RLU by jumping two wires together at the connector. I was just curious if there was any adapter that could go in line with the bulb to shut off the warning indicator. Replacing all the stock type bulbs with LEDs is cool, but all that wattage you save has to be dealt with by the regulator which adds to its workload and burns them out quicker. It sounds like saving juice on this bike is only necessary if you want to add more things to draw the power.
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