Stator r/r Nightmare - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 12:38 PM
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Exactly, it is a primitive way to do it, but a little more aluminum in the heat sink and it probably wouldn’t be an issue because it would increase the surface area to dissipate the heat (somebody took an engineering short cut). Resistance builds up heat, if you ever replaced a blower motor switch for the heat in your car or truck the plate typically has a different resistors for each position of the mechanical switch basically like a hair dryer. Those coils that heat up are just resistors.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 06:33 PM
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Tried to respond to your PM Rwhipple but could not
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 02:51 AM
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That's what I thought, TonyO, but wasn't sure since everyone keeps saying the regulator "dumps to ground" instead of "shunts across phases" or whatever the appropriate term would be. Thanks for the clarification that the two systems are not sharing some sort of floating neutral/ground.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 07:51 AM
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Shunts across phases?? Explain what you mean there. Because the the 3 phases of the stator hit diodes in the rectifier, diodes pass current in one direction only and block the one side of each alternating current coming in, which in electronics is “rectification” then based on load the regulator portion “dumps” unused current to the ground or common. You can call it shunting if you’d like. Anything but “shorting” to ground works.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmart View Post
Shunts across phases?? Explain what you mean there.
@mmart :
The shunting/dumping happens on the 3 phase side. The R/R detects the ouput voltage on the DC legs, and if the desired output is exceeded, then it causes semiconductors (wired in parallel to the rectifying diodes) between the legs of the 3 phase input to act as resistors, allowing some of the current to flow directly from higher voltage phases to the lower voltage phases (they are neither ground, nor neutral. they are just different phases). This drops the voltage of the waveform being rectified.


Regarding the OP's overheating wires:

The semiconductor (either thyristor or mosfet) doing the shunting generates heat when it acts as a resistor, so R/Rs get hot when the stator is generating more energy than the bike is using. They overheat and blow out when they cannot release enough of that heat to the environment. (Too much current through the resistors, or not enough cooling). Mosfets generate less heat when shunting since they are more 'fast switches' than resistors, so they don't suffer heat-death as easily.

If the R/R is incorrectly sensing too high a voltage, it will effectively drop it's internal resistance to 0, shorting the windings of the stator together, melting the yellow wires, and likely overheats the insulation on the stator windings, leading to a failed/shorted stator.

A R/R can also fail such that a diode can incorrectly pass current in reverse, which is a short between the positive and negative of the battery, melting the DC harness.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 05:27 PM
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Ah ok, great explanation. Feel like I’m back in tech school. (Scary I remember that stuff). I’m guessing other than seeing the result which is the wires cooked, there’s no real way to test that because mostly everything you mentioned is internal to the RR
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 06:25 PM
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Yes and no ... Using a continuity tester you can check to see if the rectifier is working correctly, but without an electronics testing bench it'd be hard to test the regulator aspect.

You should be able to get current from all stator connections to positive dc pin, but no current from positive dc pin to stator connections. Similarly, you should be able to pass current from the dc negative to all stator connections, but not the reverse.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 07:36 PM
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Ohm testing for the R/R is in the repair manual.

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Ohm testing for the R/R is in the repair manual.
This is true but isn’t that for a disconnected RR? And what is the best recommended RR for this bike? I’ve read a lot of conflicting opinions
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:31 PM
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MY basic thoughts are if it passes the on bench testing, then the next test that needs to be done is on the bike in operation.

if it fails bench testing, its not gonna pass operational testing (or if it does for some reason 'work', it wont for long)

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