Replace Stator, Rotor, or Both??? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Replace Stator, Rotor, or Both???

Hey, I got my 85 VN750 a month and a half ago and have been chasing electrical problems ever since my first ride. I finally got it through the safety but the bike still isn't charging properly (I see less the 12V at idle, and it doesn't get much higher at 3000RPM).

I have replaced, R/R, and Junction Box. I have also been through all the connectors cleaning then and ensuring they are in good manner. I am not looking at replacing the Stator and/or the Rotor. As it is not a quick job I'm leaning towards changing both and hopefully being done with it.

I have testing the Stator (open circuit between the any of the yellow wires and ground, and 0.5 ohms between any of the yellow wires) and the Stator tests good. The rotor I'm not sure if there is a test, but the magnets don't seem very strong. With a screw driver I have to get about 1/4 inch away before I can feel the magnets.

I'm basically not sure weather my Stator test is enough to show yes the Stator is working perfectly and not the issue? I'm not sure if there is an actual test for the Rotor but it seems to be very weak? Or if I should be looking in another place for my charging issue?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:19 AM
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It sounds like your stator is bad. That is a common issue with all bikes that use the type of charging system the VN750 does. It's just that on most bikes they can be replaced without pulling the engine. It is possible for a rotor to become demagnetized, but I would say it is extremely unlikely.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:11 AM
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The best electrical test for the stator is a voltage test while the engine is running. I don't recall the exact steps, but you should look for AC voltage between the three yellow wires. If no AC voltage, than the stator is bad.

The ohm test isn't as reliable, as cheap meters have a hard time measuring ohms in this range.


'89 Vulcan 750 Bought 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800
Purchased stock. Wrecked once
26980.4+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB
110/90 Front Tire
Pick-up coil re-gapped to .020"
Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r
USB Outlet + Voltmeter
Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages
Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG
MCCT conversion

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals
Windshield
Highway Pegs
(Possible) ignition advance

Last edited by Jason Pittenger; 05-26-2019 at 09:13 AM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:16 PM
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Almost certainly the stator. Common problem. Same on my 94. You are in for some intimate moments with the bike as one screw is blocked by the exhaust system. There are numerous videos on the process for replacing this inexpensive part.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 12:37 AM
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As a professional auto (not motorcycle, but an engine is an engine) the ONLY method I recommend for replacing the stator is pulling the engine. Trying to cut into the stator cover while still on the engine is guaranteed to fill your engine full of metal shavings, and they will wind up everywhere, including embedded in bearings, between the rings, and plugging up oil passages. It's your bike, but the idea of destroying a perfectly good engine on purpose does not sit well with me. In have a $500+ Fluke meter (goes with being a mechanic for 37 years) and it is accurate. resistance between any two of the 3 yellow wires should be 0.34-0.52 ohms. However, If you get infinity between any of the three yellow wires, which any meter will show, the stator is toast.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:33 AM
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Even a cheap meter can read if the stator has been shorted to ground. With the ignition off, put one meter lead on any of the 3 stator leads and the other meter lead to the negative battery terminal, if there is any electrical continuity between the stator and ground it’s fried. I’m living this first hand. Good times ahead
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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I have a nice meter, it does not show the stator is bad. I do plan on removing the engine to do it to remove the stator and rotor when I get the parts that I ordered. I will update this when I am finished. Hopefully it fixes all my problems!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:50 PM
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If you have a good meter, and it shows the stator is not bad, then why are you removing it?

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:59 PM
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I second that question, what is your meter showing that you’re sure it’s not a bad stator? It’s a lot of work to just change it if there’s possibly something else causing a problem
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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The bike is not charging, I have replaced, R/R, and junction box, battery, and cleaned all connectors. What else could it be?
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