I reread the whole thread for sanity, since you ran the tests for the stator and they were good, maybe you can re-run them with the bike hot, yes you have to be extra careful to not burn yourself but sometimes heat can change resistance or continuity as things expand/contract. My stator is dead at the moment, when I went to test the 3 leads one of the bullet connectors was so corroded it broke. And there was a difference in meter readings directly on the yellow leads coming from the stator as opposed to pulling the clip of the R/R and taking readings there. Just a thought, as I said I’m dealing with it and hate to hear someone tear down their bike if they don’t need to.

The repair manual does state to do the testing when the engine is warmed up.

If the stator is bad, the meter should show it. It will either be shorted to ground, or it will have an open circuit, which is the most common. the winding on the coils burns into at some point. But either one of those issues should show up on the meter. Check between all the yellow wires and see what you get. Then check between each yellow wire and engine ground and see what you get. One of the other will show up on the meter. You mentioned the rotor. I doubt that is the problem unless it has been damaged inn some way, such as contact with the stator. I've seen a lot of 1960s bikes run fine with the original rotor.

I have finally replaced the stator. The bike works perfect! The old stator looks burned but still tests "okay". Ive tested it with multiple meters, some very expensive and all say the same thing.

My VN750 now idles at 13.6V when battery is charging and over 14V around 3000 RPM