New R/R Broke something - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the R/R with one of the recommended aftermarket replacements. I don't recall the model number at the moment. I was confused how to wire the black/yellow, brown and white wires, as the new one only had 2 terminals.

I left it unhooked and started it, to check voltage, and I read 5-6 volts? Headlight remained off.

I shut it off. I decided to try the wires in the orientation I expected to work, and everything went dead! What did I do?!? It wasn't even running when I plugged it in.

Edit: I checked and all fuses in the JB are still good.
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'89 Vulcan 750 Purchased 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800
Purchased stock except for K&N Filters. Wrecked once
20969.2 miles & counting

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, running straight out of goats belly
Pick-up coil re-gapped to .020"
Compufire 55402 r/r series regulator
USB Outlet + Voltmeter
Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages

Planned modifications:
Ear Shave (without coasters)
Custom LED turn signals
Windshield
Highway Pegs
(Possible) ignition advance

Last edited by Jason Pittenger; 03-09-2019 at 01:15 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 10:22 PM
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I would guess that the brown wire (voltage monitor) would not get hooked up to the newer R/Rs. If you reversed the white and black from their expected locations ... who knows what happened. You just reverse-fed the R/R and may have blown it out. If the fuses are all good, that's probably the extent of the damage.

With the R/R unplugged, does your battery have voltage across the terminals? If so, you should also have voltage between the black/yellow and white wires at the R/R connector regardless of the ignition position. Could be 'off' and you should still have voltage there.

Also, where were you reading 5-6v? I don't think that voltage should be showing up anywhere on this bike.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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When I first started the bike, only the stator was connected to the R/R. I had a 15A charger on the battery to maintain charge while running. When not running, turning the key to on would turn on all running lights (minus headlight).

After "the event", turning the key to on had no effect. It behaved like a completely dead battery. I would have thought it was a dead battery, but my newly added volt meter/USB charger showed 13.6V at the battery (from external charger). I connected this directly to the battery, immediately above the main cables.

Perhaps the R/R is fried, but disconnecting it doesn't fix anything. Turning the key to on still acts like a dead battery.

I measured 5-6 volts DC at idle between the two unconnected pins on the R/R. I did not try AC. Given that the old charging system has a lot of ripple, I could reasonably expect 12 volts with ripple to read 5-6 volts, if no battery is connected to the pins.


'89 Vulcan 750 Purchased 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800
Purchased stock except for K&N Filters. Wrecked once
20969.2 miles & counting

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, running straight out of goats belly
Pick-up coil re-gapped to .020"
Compufire 55402 r/r series regulator
USB Outlet + Voltmeter
Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages

Planned modifications:
Ear Shave (without coasters)
Custom LED turn signals
Windshield
Highway Pegs
(Possible) ignition advance
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 12:49 AM
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Hadn't considered ripple affecting the dc readings. Not sure what 'normal' is with no battery connected to smooth things out.
What are your post-event voltage readings at the r/r white to black/yellow with the battery connected, r/r disconnected?

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is online now  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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I found the JB test process in the manual. I didn't realize before that that was there. Going through that process, the 30A fuse was blown. When I checked the fuses, I did not remove them or disconnect the JB. This gave me a false good reading!

Now that that is fixed, I definitely connected the two wires to the R/R backwards. Any ideas on how it release the terminals from the housing?
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'89 Vulcan 750 Purchased 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800
Purchased stock except for K&N Filters. Wrecked once
20969.2 miles & counting

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, running straight out of goats belly
Pick-up coil re-gapped to .020"
Compufire 55402 r/r series regulator
USB Outlet + Voltmeter
Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages

Planned modifications:
Ear Shave (without coasters)
Custom LED turn signals
Windshield
Highway Pegs
(Possible) ignition advance
Jason Pittenger is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 09:58 PM
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Hard to tell from the picture. Usually there's a prong that sticks out from the metal terminal that locks into a slot in the plastic to keep it from being pushed out by the mating pins when the connector is plugged in. Something like a sewing needle can be pushed down the edge of the terminal (most likely where that little slot is at the bottom of each terminal in your first picture), between the terminal and the plastic, to dislodge that clip and the wire can be pushed out the back.

Every once in a while the plastic housing has the tab, so the tab would need to be released from the back where the wires are.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is online now  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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All good! I used a dental pick to release the terminals. 13.2 at idle, 13.8 at rev. Much better than my 16+ V at rev!


'89 Vulcan 750 Purchased 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800
Purchased stock except for K&N Filters. Wrecked once
20969.2 miles & counting

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, running straight out of goats belly
Pick-up coil re-gapped to .020"
Compufire 55402 r/r series regulator
USB Outlet + Voltmeter
Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages

Planned modifications:
Ear Shave (without coasters)
Custom LED turn signals
Windshield
Highway Pegs
(Possible) ignition advance
Jason Pittenger is offline  
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