Problems charging the battery - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Problems charging the battery

Hello everyone,

Im new to the forums and was wondering if you guys could help me out with something.
Recently I had troubles starting my VN750 89. I checked the voltage on the battery and it read 11,5V so i bought a charger and charged my battery to about 12,6. It ran fine for about 2 weeks before it woulnd start again. Im sure the battery is fine since its about 1 month old. At 1000RPM the voltage messures 12,3V-12,8V up to 13V at 3000-4000RPM. So im guessing it was the stator I then looked up some videos and read around on the forums and desided to test my stator. all 3 cables read about 1,8-2,0 ohms of resistance and there is no leakage when grounding them. Now i noticed when starting the bike and let it sit at 1000RPM the voltage of the A-B was around 21/23V, B-C also 21/23V but A-C was around 6 to 8V. Does this mean that my stator is bad and I should replace it to solve my charging problems?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 02:39 PM
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sounds bad to me, would recommend also a MOSFET upgrade. that replaces the factory R/R with a more advanced and more efficient style. its is NOT a direct plug and play tho, but easy to do, and well worth it. also can go with an upgrade to a 'series' R/R as an upgrade, I dont know the part number(s) for the right one, but they are available (although a little more pricey than regular MOSFET upgrade)
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 11:13 PM
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Most electrical problems are poor/damaged/corroded connections.

Check the manual for numbers and technique, but stator output is measured in amps AND volts, AC of course...

Reg/rect output is volts DC.
From 12.5 to 14 Volts
I've seen many older reg/rects overcharge and cook batteries

Magnets can go bad too. But not often
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 03:20 AM
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Sounds like a bad stator. As stated above, check your connectors too. Wouldn't hurt to cut off the bullet connectors and solder them directly to the R/R and then check the voltages.

Also, don't trust your battery just because its 'new'. I bought a 'new' battery this summer only to get it home and it wouldn't hold a charge and I had to replace it. Finally, if the stator is bad, replace the R/R with a MOSFET as suggested above. You'll get better voltages and 2010's technology instead of 1970's tech
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Do you guys maybe have an order number or a link to a MOSFET? I know what my r/r looks like but woulnd want to buy the wrong stuff. Also i ordered a new stator and its comming in 4-10jan then ill crack open the engine and replace it
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panarock View Post
Do you guys maybe have an order number or a link to a MOSFET? I know what my r/r looks like but woulnd want to buy the wrong stuff. Also i ordered a new stator and its comming in 4-10jan then ill crack open the engine and replace it
Check out roadstercycle https://www.roadstercycle.com/

As for the stator, there are mixed opinions on this, but look on the forum for the tuxedo mod and see if it is something you wanna do, contact Glenn at http://www.gcextreme.com/VULCAN750/ and pick up his stator plate mod

What stator did you buy? If it is a caltric or another cheap chinese stator, it very well may burn out, and burn out quick. I got 2 rides out of my caltric stator. So I personally recommend the tuxedo mod, but if you're not comfortable doing it, just be prepared that you may have to replace the stator in the future.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a new version of the origional stator. also, i dont mind removing the engine block to replace the stator. the mod i saw is going to destroy the bike and i would like to keep it as close to origional as possible with exeption to the electrical systems.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 11:50 AM
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the tuxedo mod does not destroy the bike.. and is best performed with the engine removed. all the mod does is provide a way to replaced the stator without removing the engine in the future. it modifies the left side cover so that the stator can be removed with the engine in place.

some have cut the frame on the left side, and that is an acceptable method, providing your a good (or better) welder so you can repair the frame rail.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panarock View Post
I bought a new version of the origional stator. also, i dont mind removing the engine block to replace the stator. the mod i saw is going to destroy the bike and i would like to keep it as close to origional as possible with exeption to the electrical systems.
Are you referring to the people who cut their frames in order to remove the stator cover? Because that is not the tuxedo mod. Instead, the tuxedo mod cuts a plate out of the inner stator cover so that the stator can be accessed from the small round side cover, and is held in place by an additional piece of cut metal. When done correctly, it causes no damage at all and nobody would ever know you've done it
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 11:06 AM
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I got the roadstercycle MOSFET kit for mine in 2014. The MOSFET r/r was slightly larger than the stock one, and I assumed wouldn't fit in the stock location without mods, if at all.

I planned to relocate it anyway, so it wasn't a big deal. I made a simple mount plate with two bends and six holes, and put it behind the left sidecover, covering the fusebox/JB with an air gap between. The mount plate bolts on with the two existing fusebox/JB mounting bolts through the battery box.

I cheated and cut the bottom from an aluminum frying pan for the mount, it was soft, easy to cut, drill, and bend. A cereal box makes an easy pattern, when the pattern fits, transfer the holes and bend lines to the metal and trace the outline. The mount plate has to be dog-eared at the top corners to fit the battery box.

Also coated the back of the r/r with dielectric grease before bolting it on. Which I don't think was needed, the r/r grounds through the wiring, it would still work hanging in mid-air.

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