Brittle Wires - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Brittle Wires

Howdy Folks --

The wires from the Stator that join the plastic connector to the R/R are very stiff and brittle right where they link to the connector probably from the intense heat. The coating on the wires is very stiff which makes it difficult to make a good connection.

I rewired all 6 wires to a new plastic connector but I just don't feel very confidant about the strength and durability of these 6 connections within the plastic connector.

Is there any way to make this connection between the R/R and Stator more secure or am I just being paranoid?

Many Thanx!







Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Make sure the wires are installed correctly in the connector. With the connector locking tab facing down wire as follows. Y1, Y2, Y3 at the top. Black/yellow bottom left, Brown bottom middle, White bottom right.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 10:29 AM
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Take the connector off and solder the wires. Use heat shrink for insulation. Be sure to run the shrink onto the wire before soldering.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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Soldering Tips?

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Originally Posted by niterider View Post
Take the connector off and solder the wires. Use heat shrink for insulation. Be sure to run the shrink onto the wire before soldering.
NiteRider and All --

The only down side to soldering vs using the plastic connector between the R/R and Stator seems to be that you lose the ability to disconnect quickly.

The upside is a more secure connection that is probably less vulnerable to the intense heat.

What other pros/cons should I consider? Is there something I'm missing here?

I'm somewhat of a newbie at soldering. Are there any special tips for removing the connector and soldering this R/R -- Stator connection?

Thanx!
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 11:51 AM
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I have't looked it up myself, but most of the time you can get good instruction off the internet as for how to do any type of DIY project. I learned soldering by trial and error.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
I'm somewhat of a newbie at soldering. Are there any special tips for removing the connector and soldering this R/R -- Stator connection?

Thanx!
My problem is getting the wires hot enough to melt the solder before the heat starts to melt the insulation around the wires. My solution is to slip on a longer sleeve of heat shrink than I THINK I'm gonna need. That way, Ive got enough to cover the bare wires and any insulation that may get burned up in the process. Did you see the excellent post on how to wrap the wires before soldering?

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
My problem is getting the wires hot enough to melt the solder before the heat starts to melt the insulation around the wires. My solution is to slip on a longer sleeve of heat shrink than I THINK I'm gonna need. That way, Ive got enough to cover the bare wires and any insulation that may get burned up in the process. Did you see the excellent post on how to wrap the wires before soldering?
================================================== =======
""weh44att I have't looked it up myself, but most of the time you can get good instruction off the internet as for how to do any type of DIY project. I learned soldering by trial and error. ""
================================================== ========

FliteControl, WEH44ATT --

Thanx for the tip about using a longer sleeve of heat shrink! Yes, I saw the excellent diagram but I cannot find it again doing a search on solder, wiring, connections. It was such a good diagram I think I remember how to do it.

I'll see what I can find about soldering with a google search.

Thanx for your replys Mates!
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Solder + Quick Connector?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
My problem is getting the wires hot enough to melt the solder before the heat starts to melt the insulation around the wires. My solution is to slip on a longer sleeve of heat shrink than I THINK I'm gonna need. That way, Ive got enough to cover the bare wires and any insulation that may get burned up in the process. Did you see the excellent post on how to wrap the wires before soldering?
Is there any type of idividual (vs. multi pin) connector that allows a combination of soldering + quick connectors -- sort of the best of both worlds?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weh44att View Post
I have't looked it up myself, but most of the time you can get good instruction off the internet as for how to do any type of DIY project. I learned soldering by trial and error.
Thanx for the tip, Weh44Att

Here's a neat 5 min utube video on how to solder:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
NiteRider and All --

The only down side to soldering vs using the plastic connector between the R/R and Stator seems to be that you lose the ability to disconnect quickly.

The upside is a more secure connection that is probably less vulnerable to the intense heat.

What other pros/cons should I consider? Is there something I'm missing here?

I'm somewhat of a newbie at soldering. Are there any special tips for removing the connector and soldering this R/R -- Stator connection?

Thanx!

You do not want to solder the wires together at the regulator.


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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 03:54 PM
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If you do decide to cut the connectors you can use Raychem solder heat shrink butt splices. They have a ring of solder in a heat shrink tube. Insert wires and heat with a heat gun until solder melts and shrink the tubing and your done. Home Depot, Lowes, Ace carry them


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Last edited by lance328; 03-31-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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