regulator ??? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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regulator ???

just been for a run today and the bike conked out. Turns out the ignition switch at fault again. turn it so far you get lights no engine start. Turn a bit further you get engine but no lights
Anyway i get back home (spluttered) Checked the voltage on the battery. 14.5 on tickover, revved up and goes to 17.5...
Is my reg faulty? is my new MF battery going to explode
Ignition causing more leccy gremmlins...
Any help again be appreciated...
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 08:39 AM
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Yes, that's too much voltage going to the battery, and it can get cooked like that...

Here is a fault finding guide, to help you get started.

Last edited by 750Doug; 03-29-2009 at 08:46 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotiaredd View Post
just been for a run today and the bike conked out. Turns out the ignition switch at fault again. turn it so far you get lights no engine start. Turn a bit further you get engine but no lights
Anyway i get back home (spluttered) Checked the voltage on the battery. 14.5 on tickover, revved up and goes to 17.5...
Is my reg faulty? is my new MF battery going to explode
Ignition causing more leccy gremmlins...
Any help again be appreciated...
Replace your regulator.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Replace your regulator.
Lance - I've been PM'ing Cindy (who really is always helpful) on this but thought I'd get your take as well since I think I'm in for a major cash outlay.

Went riding a couple weeks back for about 1-1/2hrs. Everything fine. Went out later to go again and starter turned twice then clicked. Tried again tyurned once then clicked. Typical dead battery syndome. Recharged and went riding about the same amount of time. Same scenario when tried to start to put back in garage.

Started reading Elect Forum to find out why. Started testing everything and found 13.4V across battery fully charged, cold engine off, key off. Start up then at idle, 11.7V and at 4K rpm 13.5/6V or so. Tested each yellow stator leads (disconnected from R/R) with engine at idle 17VAc, 21VAc, 17VAc and with engine at 4K rpm 28Vac, 33Vac, 28Vac. Sounds like stator is doing something but maybe not enough? In addition, the resistance ([email protected]) key off, cold engine off, from each yellow wire (red lead) to neg Batt term (black lead) is 0.9 Ohm.

Tested regulator G & M terminals, found infinite resistance @ MM200 between them.

Based on everything I've read, sounds like both R/R and Stator need replacing, but before I start pulling everything out (engine, wallet and my hair!) is there anything else I should investigate?

'89 Vulcan 750

VROC# 30232

HID Headlamp Conversion
V&H Cruzers (great sound)
Kaw V-Force Windshield
Kaw Rear Luggage Rack
Kaw Engine Guard
VN750.COM Grill Cover
W&M Black Magic Saddlebags
Diehard M/F Battery
R/R Replaced/Relocated
Stator Replaced
Voltmeter Installed
Splines Lubed
Metzler 880 Marathons
Front - 110/90-19
Rear - 170/80-15
Carbs Balanced
Carb Mix Adjusted
Fuel Tank Derusted/Lined/Sealed
NGK Iridium Plugs
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsawyer View Post
Lance - I've been PM'ing Cindy (who really is always helpful) on this but thought I'd get your take as well since I think I'm in for a major cash outlay.

Went riding a couple weeks back for about 1-1/2hrs. Everything fine. Went out later to go again and starter turned twice then clicked. Tried again tyurned once then clicked. Typical dead battery syndome. Recharged and went riding about the same amount of time. Same scenario when tried to start to put back in garage.

Started reading Elect Forum to find out why. Started testing everything and found 13.4V across battery fully charged, cold engine off, key off. Start up then at idle, 11.7V and at 4K rpm 13.5/6V or so. Tested each yellow stator leads (disconnected from R/R) with engine at idle 17VAc, 21VAc, 17VAc and with engine at 4K rpm 28Vac, 33Vac, 28Vac. Sounds like stator is doing something but maybe not enough? In addition, the resistance ([email protected]) key off, cold engine off, from each yellow wire (red lead) to neg Batt term (black lead) is 0.9 Ohm.

Tested regulator G & M terminals, found infinite resistance @ MM200 between them.

Based on everything I've read, sounds like both R/R and Stator need replacing, but before I start pulling everything out (engine, wallet and my hair!) is there anything else I should investigate?
Your stator outputs are low but the 0.9 Ohm reading is a problem, it should read infinite. Check you R/R again, sometimes you need to scrape the side of the terminal to get a good connection. If the regulator was not working your voltage would not change, it would stay the same at any rpm.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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switch is knackered now
so im rigging up a relay for the ignition. has anyone done this. ive got the info
but still not sure which wires go were on the relay...

picture of relay i be using 4pin
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...w-wire-up.html

Or is this right...
1/ three ignition wires to 86 on the relay. with a switch added!
2/white wire to 30 on relay ie: hotwire. fused.
3/ Connect one of Hyper-lites weatherproof switches to one of the
poles on the control side of the relay. 87 on relay. hook up to BW wire
4/ and earth 85...

This is the info ive scorced from here. Just trying to work it out, be simple
i know but im banging my head against the wall, and kawasaki want 130 for switch


1Clip the wires off the base plate. (Leave just a little tag of wire so you can
tell what color went where--in case you get confused, or don't agree with my write-up.)

2. Butt-splice extensions onto each of the wires. Make these as long as you will
need to get to the switches you are going to mount. Use automotive crimp style
butt connectors.
3. Bundle these three wires into one:
Yellow (this is the ignition switch wire)
Orange-green
Brown-white
All these wires work together to run the bike and the lights (except brake-tail).
4. Connect this bundle of wires to the switched side of a relay.
(Use an "always-open" relay
5. Connect the white wire to the other pole of the switched side
of the relay. This white wire is your power supply (hot wire).
6. Connect one of Hyper-lites weatherproof switches to one of the
poles on the control side of the relay.
7. Connect the other lead of the Hyper-lite switch to the black-white
wire. This is also a hot wire--it actually connects to the white wire
someplace back in the guts of the machine.
8. Connect the final pole of the relay to ground. Or connect it to the
supplied negative lead inside the headlight bucket. (I can't recall
the color of the wire--yellow and white???)
That finishes the power-up section. You still have to connect the tail-brake
lights to the headlight control system.
9. Connect the blue wire to one lead of your second Hyper-lite switch.
10. Connect the red wire to the other lead of your switch.

If i can get this sorted i be glad to put info and walkthrough on maintenace page
as im sure there been a lot of aggs with the ign switch...

Last edited by scotiaredd; 03-29-2009 at 04:23 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Your stator outputs are low but the 0.9 Ohm reading is a problem, it should read infinite. Check you R/R again, sometimes you need to scrape the side of the terminal to get a good connection. If the regulator was not working your voltage would not change, it would stay the same at any rpm.
Agreed. Hence my puzzlement. I will check the R/R readings again, making sure I have good contact. I'll also check the stator A1,2,3 wires again with a hot engine so see if it changes. Meanwhile, I'll pull/relocate the R/R as I'll need to do it regardless of whether it needs replacement. Thanks Lance!

'89 Vulcan 750

VROC# 30232

HID Headlamp Conversion
V&H Cruzers (great sound)
Kaw V-Force Windshield
Kaw Rear Luggage Rack
Kaw Engine Guard
VN750.COM Grill Cover
W&M Black Magic Saddlebags
Diehard M/F Battery
R/R Replaced/Relocated
Stator Replaced
Voltmeter Installed
Splines Lubed
Metzler 880 Marathons
Front - 110/90-19
Rear - 170/80-15
Carbs Balanced
Carb Mix Adjusted
Fuel Tank Derusted/Lined/Sealed
NGK Iridium Plugs
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 02:43 PM
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Have you tried the internet Ebay, or out Ebay sight to see if someone has a good switch at a price that is decent. It would I think be a lot easier to get a used switch instead of replacing with a generic switch, or relay.

2004 25,500 miles
Led tail light enhancement
Homemade floor boards
Headlight modulator
Extra heat sink on R+R
R+R relocation
Homemade driver's backrest
Fused Stator
Mcct conversion-cost 4.50
Ride-on in tires
crash bar with home made hyway pegs
iridium plugs
home made fork wind deflectors
coil pickups adjusted.
Kenda kruz tires 110/90 170/80
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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your right. Been hard to get a switch... i sourced the net and managed to get, harness,switch and regulator of ebay. Got the items for really good price from motorcycle_parts_4_sale Im in UK and these parts are in America. But shipping costs is spot on. Ive been charged more for postage for items 100k away... So i a few weeks i hope everthing is tickity boo...
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