Stator Replacement - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

  • 1 Post By Devon Vancura
  • 1 Post By Devon Vancura
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Stator Replacement

So I recently bought a 1995 Vulcan 750. It was running smooth and I was sure enjoying it. Decided to take it out for a longer ride, about an hour, was just getting back to town, pull up to a light, and my bike dies.. Right away, go to restart it, Luckily my roomate was only a mile away so he jumped me and let it charge a bit and got it home. Ran the tests and dead stator.

First thing I did was look in the book on removal. Step 1, Remove Engine, Step 2, Remove top oil line (Step 1 for that is split crank case). Now I don't know about anyone else, but when I see that, my heart sinks just a bit. I thought there had to be a better way. Well after look on this website, I saw the cutting frame method, and decided to go with that one, so here we go.

To start off, I know that I did some things wrong when going about this, so I will inform you of those to watch out for. And as with anything, REMEMBER HOW EVERYTHING YOU TAKE APART GOES BACK TOGETHER AGAIN. Also, make sure you can access a variety of wrenches and tools (all metric, and fairly common tools). You can't just go at this with a screwdriver.
**Another big note: If you are not comfortable with your welding, or the welding of the person you would have do it for you, don't do it. There would be nothing worse than riding down the road, constantly having in the back of your mind the worry of the weld of your frame. I am pretty confident in my welding capabilities, so I was okay with this. (I apologize if this article is too long, but I made sure to go into good detail for people)

To start off, you want to remove all lines/cables/shifter/footpegs that run along the left side frame rail (take note of how everything was routed). Next, obviously, you want to drain your oil (note: if you have just changed your oil or something and you want to reuse it, be cautious, as this always comes with its risks. If you do, make sure you have a clean container that you can seal and that you are working somewhere clean). After this, you can go ahead and cut the frame. I have pictures of where I cut mine. I used a sawzall kind of deal to cut mine. You can use a cutting disk, just have to be mindful of where sparks are going.

Once you get the frame out of there, you will begin to remove the bolts holding on the stator case. Keep in mind where each one goes. There is a bolt on the top that also holds on the top oil pipe. You cannot take off the cover with it hanging down as it is, so what I did was, with a good pair of needlenose, grab it by the base and bend it up (see picture). Do not break the oil line, or you or your wallet will be hating you.

After you get all the bolts remove, take the case off. Mine came easier than some others I saw, so just play with it until you get it. Once inside, go ahead and replace your stator, its relatively self explanatory how to do it once you get in there. I just ended up cutting the wires right on the connectors by the battery box to fully remove the old stator. ONE BIG NOTE WHERE I MADE MY MISTAKE. The wires are routed in there in a certain way to go under a tab to protect the wires. I didn't take note the first time, and later ended in a cut harness, luckily did not go through to wires. Next mistake I made was not getting a new replacement gasket for the case, so if you are like me and don't have one, make sure you have some gasket sealant or something like it. Once you get it back on, ANOTHER BIG NOTE: do not over tighten the case too hard. Make sure you go to torque specs with a torque wrench if you can, and if you can't, a good firm grip on a screwdriver handle attached to a socket was enough for me. I used a ratchet wrench the first time and cracked the case a bit (luckily I was able to JB weld it, and has not leaked yet).

After that is all said and done, time to put the frame back. Now I had access to some piping that fit inside of the existing frame that was actually thicker than the frame. This is important for the welding part to allow plenty of heat to be applied to it to make it nice and strong. I first place a piece in the upper cut side and tacked it in. I then drilled holes in the current frame (both cut off piece and attached piece) on the lower side for bolts (in case I ever need to get in this side again, it will just be cutting once and unbolting). See pictures for what I am talking about. I then fit the upper side over the tacked on piece, put my filler tube in the bottom (see length) and then swiveled it into place. My dad helped by using a punch and sliding the inner piece on the under side to the other part of the frame. Welded it up and drilled the rest of the holes and bolted it in. Put it all back on and had me a new stator.

Some final notes: I probably forgot something in there, so feel free to comment and ask questions. Also, it would be smart to put some oil back in and start it to make sure that your bike is charging (I can explain how if need be) before replacing the frame in case something went wrong. I live on a farm so I had access to lots of various pieces of metal/tools which I did not state, but can if need be. One more time, make sure you are committed to this. It took maybe 2-3 hours of actual work time, but I spent a lot of time thinking and deciding.

Hope this helps and I will respond to any questions as fast as I can!
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Last edited by Devon Vancura; 06-27-2018 at 02:07 PM.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Last edited by Devon Vancura; 06-27-2018 at 02:16 PM.
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cutting out , frame , replacement , stator

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