Here is that led headlight - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Here is that led headlight

Here's that LED headlight that I was talking about last year when I was doing the LED conversion. It's about 40 bucks on eBay and the housing is decent it's metal. The LED included is more of a freebie and you should plan on buying another one. The metal screen is removable via clips and then it looks like a regular normal chrome headlight just like your original one
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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When I say it's all metal that is ironic because the stock headlight is plastic. It uses the 9003 style bulb so it is a direct plug-in. They give you an extra harness if needed. It is a very clear glass lens not plastic. The low beam will not work because of the lighting unit but the high-beam does. You will have to do a modification for the low beam unit or add the load resistor that is sold with these headlights which would defeat the purpose of it because they add wattage. The led is 6000k Crystal white. It's only a millimeter off of fitting the factory headlight basket so if you would like to silicone it up or get creative you wouldn't have to do anything but remove two screws plug it in and seal it up. I replaced the entire thing. These pics are just the face plugged in.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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And here is the rest. The back is round so it won't fit without an extension of the mounts. While the housing is metal instead of plastic, the lens is clear, and the headlight is the correct size, the led that comes with it is cheap and the mods to make it fit aren't worth the trouble.

Bottom line, buy an led bulb for your stock housing which will be 9003 size, and leave it be at that.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Then i bought some awesome leds for everything else. They all look good and work good, but be aware they wont flash your turn signals if you put front and back both in without a load resistor.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 06:46 AM
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EP34 flasher solves that flashing issue when all LED's

12 or so bucks at the local big box parts store

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Sold 11-27-17
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention that the load of all the bulbs replaced with leds was a huge difference. In stock form when I hit the brake the headlight would flicker under the initial strike of the load at the spike and be slightly dimmer. This is all due to activation of the brake bulbs. When I put the leds in there was no more spike. In stock form i was getting . 7 volt drop and with led .1 volt drop. My running voltage with all bulbs v/s all led was . 8 volt difference. Now there is practically no load running, turning, or stopping unless the fan kicks on. I feel like it completely transformed the bike.


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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 09:58 PM
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It won't make any difference to the engine or stator, the charging system is always running at maximum output. Any power not consumed by the electrical system is converted to waste heat by the R/R.

Adding a 10,000uF capacitor to the system can make a huge difference in LED flicker and dimming, especially at idle. It almost eliminates the high natural voltage ripple permanent magnet alternators create.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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This is your second post completely off topic of the point of why it was posted. Since you just joined, try reading the posts people write and respond to the topic instead of just what seems to be randomly whatever you want to post.

Post topic: you don't HAVE excessive voltage potential with bulbs. That's why we use leds. Welcome to the vn750.


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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One1 View Post
This is your second post completely off topic of the point of why it was posted.
I suggest you learn some basic conversation and social skills instead of just being a douchebag.

Clearly you're incapable of learning from people trying to help you, thats probably why you owned a company for 14 years instead of currently owning one.

Quote:
completely off topic
Reading comprehension, buddy. Go get some. My reply was entirely on topic and relevant to everything you said in your last post.

Quote:
Post topic: you don't HAVE excessive voltage potential with bulbs. That's why we use leds.
Incorrect.
We use LED because they are functionally superior in every way to incandescent. Brighter, faster response, cooler operating, longer lasting, vibration resistant, etc

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Last edited by DenverDiesel; 03-25-2018 at 10:15 PM.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One1 View Post
They all look good and work good, but be aware they wont flash your turn signals if you put front and back both in without a load resistor.
Thats why LED specific flasher relays exist.

In addition, you need to get matching color LEDs for the application they will be used in. Red brake, amber LED, etc.
Using white LEDs wastes light energy because the housing lens filters out the rest of spectrum. So if you get the specific color, nearly all the light energy will pass through the color filter/lens and the light will be significantly brighter for the same lumen bulb output.

In addition addition, the bulbs you used are very old design. They have low output per LED and have no heatsink to assure longevity.
These are vastly superior in every way.
https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ext...dp/B06XTDVXPR/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSXMB46/

1989 VN750
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1982 Mercedes 300D
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Last edited by DenverDiesel; 03-25-2018 at 10:37 PM.
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