Installing a stator - frame cut method - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Installing a stator - frame cut method

The new best way to do the stator. Lol. If you have the tools and skills this is by far the only way to go. It’s not for everyone nor the faint of heart. I wouldn’t start it if you can’t do it all for sure.

It’s party time. I’ve removed the shifter, foot brace, and tied up the clutch and kickstand switch out of the way. Also moved the oil pressure and coolant temp wires so they don’t get cut.

Will be cutting with a 1960’s Rockwell Porta-band saw and welding with a 1957 Lincoln Idealarc 300 AC/DC using 6010 fast freeze at 80 amps. If you want a job done right and well, use good solid old tools. :-).

A few pics and vids. More to come. This is posted in real time as I go.










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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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15 minutes in, stator is unbolted and sliding out. I changed the lower cut because of issues with the very bottom back bolt in the cover.



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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 08:55 PM
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Looks kinda scary to me, are you going to be able to get 100% weld coverage around the frame tube? its kinda hard to get at the back......

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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1981 KZ750
1988 Vulcan VN750 (red)
2005 Vulcan VN750 (silver)
(2) 1994 Vulcan VN750 (red)

Engineering solutions for the VN750 Community.

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Got distracted by sushi last night. Lol. The capped ends are going to give a solid place to weld at 80 amps as well as rigid support for the tubular frame. The factory frame has a slight tension to it. Itís part of itís stiffness. If you notice when it is cut it pulls inward slightly. When itís welded back it will be welded on bottom with the top slightly offset inwards and be pulled back straight to set the tension back on the frame. This was by far the easiest time I have ever had doing a stator. Once I set the tube today itís done. The cut was 5 mins. The stator part was only 30 minutes. The prep and capping was 15 mins. The weld is going to be about 15 because Iím going to cap the welds with 7018 for strength. This beats the hell out of 2-3 days of complete teardown and dealing with things like those damn snorkels, motor mounts and ign coils, draining and removing the radiator, gas tank, etc. just sooo much better.
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1981 KZ750
1988 Vulcan VN750 (red)
2005 Vulcan VN750 (silver)
(2) 1994 Vulcan VN750 (red)

Engineering solutions for the VN750 Community.

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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 01:00 PM
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Wouldn't it be stronger to slug the frame?

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
Wouldn't it be stronger to slug the frame?
It looks like he did, maybe? I could have the terminology wrong.

I thought he was going to weld in the bolt-on fittings like it's done over on the 'wrong' side (clutch side).

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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I wanted to do videos for everything but hard to and work at the same time. All is by the book and well. Welding took about 20 mins from start to shaped and ready to paint.







1981 KZ750
1988 Vulcan VN750 (red)
2005 Vulcan VN750 (silver)
(2) 1994 Vulcan VN750 (red)

Engineering solutions for the VN750 Community.

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
It looks like he did, maybe? I could have the terminology wrong.

I thought he was going to weld in the bolt-on fittings like it's done over on the 'wrong' side (clutch side).
From the pictures, it looked like the tubes were capped to make up for the material removed by the saw. Didn't see any plugs extending into the cut tubes.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
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1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
Wouldn't it be stronger to slug the frame?
It looks like he did, maybe? I could have the terminology wrong.

I thought he was going to weld in the bolt-on fittings like it's done over on the 'wrong' side (clutch side).
Chopper builders like to use a sleeve inside the tubes to weld to, but it’s not necessary to sleeve them when you can cap them instead. The sleeves are supposed to make the area welded stronger IF you don’t weld them correctly and they have a heat affected zone around the weld. Capping them allows you to use proper heat and get a support inside the tube as well without having a sleeve inside. If you are doing what I am doing you can’t use a sleeve because there is no way to bend them to fit an elbow that doesn't slide forward. A short right angle tube bend doesn’t move straight in.



1981 KZ750
1988 Vulcan VN750 (red)
2005 Vulcan VN750 (silver)
(2) 1994 Vulcan VN750 (red)

Engineering solutions for the VN750 Community.

Last edited by One1; 05-08-2018 at 07:44 PM.
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