Installing a stator - frame cut method - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Most uneventful stator replacement I’ve done. About three hours total with piddling around time. Two good actual hours working. Very pleased. Also, my highway bar doubles the lower cradle strength as a plus.

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 03:54 PM
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great work, well thought out and exectuted.

would like to add, if your not confident with your welding ability/technique/experience, do NOT do this. this is perfectly acceptable as long as the welding is done properly.


of course, it all goes out the window if the frame rail has some rot..
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Results. 13.5 at idle, and I set my idle low and run rich so it lopes (i like the sound) and 14.9 at 1100 and above.

https://youtu.be/-XkAJ04FZLo


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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 07:29 PM
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Does sound cammy. Are your mufflers punched out?

Curious how you welded the back? Bent the rods near the end?

I see subframe pieces on ebay quite a bit. Seems like it wouldn't too hard to cut the fittings out and use them for this One1 mod. Tennessee mod? Or just make them from scratch, would need the other frame fittings too. Obviously would make stator/damper jobs easier.

Proof it can be done though, with solid welding skills. There's some pics out there of some chicken poop jobs that I wouldn't take out of the driveway.

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Degoated, stock baffles. Well worn in i guess. 30k. Kinda raspy. If you go from under the bike there is enough room to run around to the tie in at the upper back, you are just a little off angle. The weld will build up when not straight so have to move fast.


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Last edited by One1; 03-01-2018 at 11:08 PM.
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
great work, well thought out and exectuted.

would like to add, if your not confident with your welding ability/technique/experience, do NOT do this. this is perfectly acceptable as long as the welding is done properly.


of course, it all goes out the window if the frame rail has some rot..
these bikes handle like **** with a rusty frame rail on that side.don't ask me how I know.lol

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 08:03 PM
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good job

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lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
great work, well thought out and exectuted.

would like to add, if your not confident with your welding ability/technique/experience, do NOT do this. this is perfectly acceptable as long as the welding is done properly.


of course, it all goes out the window if the frame rail has some rot..
these bikes handle like **** with a rusty frame rail on that side.don't ask me how I know.lol

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How do you know doc? LOL!!


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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Couple notes on why i used what i used. The rockwell makes a cut so clean and thin you hardly lose any material and there are no burrs. No need to sand or file away material. I have oxy/acetylene cutting torches, chop saws, grinders with cutting disks, ported cable skill saw with cutting disks, all of them would take a lot of material out and need to be surfaced. If you do this use a porta-band, there are several companies to choose from.

I tacked the frame with mig, much easier to keep it still. The tube slides like itís on ice and took 5 mins to re-align it as it kept slipping. The tube is really thin so you could Mig it, but i wanted 70k tensile strength so i used 7018 excalibur. It would be easier to use the small rod than a mig gun in the upper back of the frame also. Plenty of room for the rod, just a weird angle. Also, cut the tube at an angle. Takes all the guess work out of putting it back together. Took a minute to orientate the tube. You donít want your kickstand and foot pedal off by any degrees.

The ricks stator is as close to stock as they come. Stock stator idles at the same voltage, but ricks gets it to 14.8v a lot faster. I think it was 1200-ish rpm. As we have proven the stators arenít the issue, the bike is. Eliminate as much as you can with leds, brushless fans, bypass as much of the JB as possible, mosfet RR isnít a bad idea either. So ricks because of high output at low rpm and cost, quality of similar nature to stock. Logical choice.

Frame cutting - absolutely painless. No cursing, no fighting, no hassle. 1 day job. Either know how to weld tube or know someone who does. A highway bar is great as an addition to strengthen the lower frame area if you are looking for added insurance to someone elseís (or your own) weld.


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(2) 1994 Vulcan VN750 (red)

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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 12:44 PM
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Wow. This might be the best thing to ever happen to VN750 owners lol. I just have one question: What material did you for the caps? I have attached a pic for reference
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