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What's the best way to clean & rebuild carbs?

6K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  biggestjd 
#1 ·
So my bike sat for almost 2 years. It fired up, but fuel was pouring out the carb overflow/vent line into the right ear. Thinking it was a stuck float, I tried all the tricks on these forums, but I eventually had to pull the carbs and want to do a full cleaning and rebuild.

Besides the obvious carb cleaner on the parts, what other things can I do?
I've read about boiling the carbs in distilled water, lemon juice, Simple Green, detergent, etc. What parts are NOT safe to boil? I'm assuming everything plastic or rubber that is removable should be removed?
My carbs are definitely in need of a cleaning, but I did not see a ton of gunk.

My floats are discolored (see pic at bottom), but I think that's cuz half of the float was sitting in gas for almost 2 years. If I submerge the float in water and don't see any bubbles and it floats on top, they should be fine, correct?
What about the float needle? If it looks clean, is it fine?

I'm also doing an Ear Shave, so I'm replacing the jets, so no need to worry about them being gummed up.

One more thing...do I have to sync the carbs after doing all this? I read some threads about being able to make your own sync tool, but no one posted a link for it, and the "Search this Forum" function doesn't really bring in exact results.

Thanks for all and any advice/tips.
 
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#2 ·
I use Berryman's B12, carb cleaner, a gun cleaning brush, 18ga stranded copper wire, and a torch tip cleaner, and a compressor.....

Sometimes I think its just easier to take it to a shop just to keep the hassle off my shoulders. They wil clean, sync, test the float level, and sometimes bench test the carbs.... But, i always end up doing it myself
 
#6 ·
Do you soak any parts in the B12, or do you just spray on, clean with the brush, and dry with the compressor?
What is the 18Ga. wire for?
I'm assuming a torch tip cleaner is used for the Needle? Are those available at a Lowe's or Home Depot?

Thanks for the info. I really want to clean/rebuild these myself, but I've read SO SO many different methods of cleaning, soaking, boiling, ultra sonic, etc...I guess I'll just start cleaning with simple carb cleaner, and go from there.
 
#3 ·
What parts are NOT safe to boil? I wouldnt boil anything
I'm assuming everything plastic or rubber that is removable should be removed?replace all o-rings and any dry rotted plastic parts
My carbs are definitely in need of a cleaning, but I did not see a
ton of gunk.Thats a good thing

My floats are discolored (see pic at bottom), but I think that's cuz half of the float was sitting in gas for almost 2 years. If I submerge the float in water and don't see any bubbles and it floats on top, they should be fine, correct?Your correct, theres no holes in the float.... discoloring comes from gas on the brass
What about the float needle? If it looks clean, is it fine?clean it with a scotch brite pad, the tip is usually what gets the dirtiest

I'm also doing an Ear Shave, so I'm replacing the jets, so no need to worry about them being gummed up.I would still clean them and put them back on the bike til you get your parts. Taking the carbs out gets super easy after you have done it a couple times

One more thing...do I have to sync the carbs after doing all this? Theres one on here somewhere... maybe someone else could help you on the link


Hope this helps... Clymers has an awesome manual for this whole procedure
 
#5 · (Edited)
I recently have found myself wanting to get into the DIY-carb-synch game, too. I plan on giving this one a try... http://moto.zoic.org/r100gs/*******.html. Of course just follow their instructions for building it. Then one tube to each carb (of course) and synch away.

I plan on turning my petcock to PRI (as opposed to RUN or RES) if the bowls run dry while synching.
 
#7 ·
I just use parts cleaner (a big bucket o' acetone) from Napa or similar, but try to get one with a basket. Usually I'll soak everything (minus pastic and rubber) overnight, hose it off the next day, and dry everything thoroughly with an air compressor (just hang on tightly - the parts are small and the compressor can have its way with them!). Ditto for the jets - put 'em in the basket to soak, use the compressor to blow dry. You should be able to see through all the holes when you're done.

You'll likely need to replace the following, just because they tend to be in bad shape when pulling apart the carbs:

1. The three bolts on the back of each carb that hold the float bowl to the throttle body (you can get reasonable repalcements at Lowe's or HD).
2. Teeny-tiny cotter pins to reconnect the linkages on the throttle body.
3. Possibly the small bolts that hold the covers onto each slide diaphragm.
4. As noted, likely the float bowl gaskets.

There's a pile of pictures under my user name from a set of disgusting carbs I cleaned a couple of years ago. Hopefully those can help.

Here's a link to the manometer: http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
 
#9 ·
There's a pile of pictures under my user name from a set of disgusting carbs I cleaned a couple of years ago. Hopefully those can help.

Yeah those pictures are a huge help. I think I'll need to crack my folat bowls if the cleaner doesn't fix my issue. Thanks for posting them!
 
#10 ·
#14 ·
The last I heard, carbworx.com was around $45/carb plus shipping and any parts. IIRC he's a Kawasaki tech.
 
#15 ·
Okay, so I've got the carbs taken apart and separated the rubber & plastic pieces.
What about the rubber at the fuel plunger? that doesn't come off. So should I not soak that part of the carb?
The manual says to use a cleaner with a "high flash point" for the rubber pieces. I've got a few cans of carb cleaner & brake cleaner, and I don't see them saying anything about "flash point". Is there another way to tell?

I also don't have an air compressor...would a can of compressed air do the trick?

Thanks for all the input...I'm hoping to have these carbs cleaned and ready to test this weekend.
 
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