Ignition switch/key - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ignition switch/key

Looking for an ignition switch/key with the harness for a 1990 vn750. Mine is done!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 12:09 AM
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Kid, How is your wiring abilities and electrical knowledge? I ask, because I can show you a way to fix all your electrical gremblins in one fowl swoop.

Items needed:
Ignition switch NAPA PN: MPE KS6180SB $15.30
5 Pin Standard Automotive Relay (x4): eBay : $14.95 + s&h
6 circuit Fuse Block: eBay $17.95
12 and 14 gauge wire in various colors (the more colors the better)
MPFSET R/R and TPE Stator.
just fallow this diagram and you can't go wrong
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't done a ton of electrical...however...I tend to be a master of YouTube and Google. Figuring things out is part of what I do! I am curious how much of my problem is a bad switch. My thought was start there...see what happens. For all I know, I could drop in a new switch, give it juice, and hear it roar to life... I would hate to start from scratch if I don't have to, but will if necessary.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 06:14 PM
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I just posted in your other thread... If that doesn't work, going this route would fix all current and possible future electrical gremlins. It also gets rid of weak electrical components like the fuse box, voltage regulatory, and wimpy harness

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Will this setup work with the stock r/r and stator? Will probably look to mod those at some point...just not yet. Also, how did you branch your cable runs? ie...same color running to multiple points. Did you multi tail terminal or cap/splice. Also, why the difference in terminal use on the ignition from your other setup with the stock harness....my harness was hacked on by someone wiring random stuff in...toggles everywhere it seems.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 04:29 AM
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I will try and answer your questions in order
Quote:
Will this setup work with the stock r/r and stator?
In short, yes. I wired the stator and the R/R in such a way that I when I finaly did the MOFSET upgrade, all I had to do was unplug the OEM R/R harness from my new harness and make a harness for the new MOFSET R/R. At this point in time, I also made a plug inside the stator cover for both the pulsator coils and the stator, so I could change them out with out having to do too much extra work.
Quote:
Also, how did you branch your cable runs? ie...same color running to multiple points. Did you multi tail terminal or cap/splice.
I started by running the longest run in the circuit. Starting at the Load (thing that power runs to) and going back to the power source (typically the relay that powers it, or the fuse). Then for the leg spliced in I would again start at the Load and run the wire to the most inconspicuous spot to splice said wire, cut wire to length. Mark where the two wires intersect, and cut the first wire at said spot. I then stripped the three wires bare, slid a piece of heat shrink tubing cut long enough to cover and seal the splice being made. I used a solder butt connector or solder y connector (depending on the angle and the direction the splice ran). I do not fuly understand your last question
Quote:
Also, why the difference in terminal use on the ignition from your other setup with the stock harness
My stock harness was so badly hacked that I needed a new harness. SO I bought one off of a member here, but the harness he sold me was for an earlier model of VN7XX, it had some extra connectors, a few of the connectors were in the wrong spot, or the wrong shape... Over all in order for me to have made it work was going to require more time and effort than me just building one. Also I was having problems with my Junction Box, and my Ignition Box, so I wanted them gone out of the system as well. My new aftermarket ignition control box warranted a special harness any ways, so I just incorporated it into the system... even though the diagram above doesn't show it (both used pretty much the same schematic), only the new Control Box pushed out more juice to the coils, so need those wires beefed up to 12 gauge wire from 16 gauge wire.

I hope this answered some of your questions
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 07:49 AM
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harness

Nicely detailed, great post.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2013, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Slim,

How do the stock sensors/dash factor in to your diagram? My harness is pretty bad, now that I'm getting into it. Ignition switch gave me oil light/speedo light....but nothing else. Lots of splice/random loose stuff up front. Probably going to start over...
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2013, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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On your diagram, bottom left...with yellow coming out of it...3 "blades." What does that represent.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2013, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkidd View Post
Slim,

How do the stock sensors/dash factor in to your diagram? My harness is pretty bad, now that I'm getting into it. Ignition switch gave me oil light/speedo light....but nothing else. Lots of splice/random loose stuff up front. Probably going to start over...
for the dash lights, all of the sending units ground out the circuits, so run a hot wire off of the accessory side of the new ignition switch to all the dash lights (Minus Turn Signals and High Beam Indicator.). Then run a ground wire from the oil pressure switch, to oil light, Neutral switch to neutral light, and a common ground for the turn signals and headlight indicator lights. Run power from the high beam Indicator from the highbeam side of the headlight switch, and power from left turnsignal switch to left turnsignal light, and finally from right turnsignal switch to right turnsignal indicator. (The Reserve Lighting Unit gets scrapped so no Light failure light used) . al the gauge backlights run off of the light circuit before the headlight switch.
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Originally Posted by Jkidd View Post
On your diagram, bottom left...with yellow coming out of it...3 "blades." What does that represent.
That represents the Stator and R/R
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