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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Looking fer an oil drain plug.

The PO destroyed the original, I cleaned it up, but its screwed again. Need one with a clean head on it. TIA....



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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 10:40 PM
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
The PO destroyed the original, I cleaned it up, but its screwed again. Need one with a clean head on it. TIA....
Be careful if you need to order one. What Kawasaki calls an oil drain plug is much smaller and near the top of the crankcase. What you are looking for is an oil filter cap ( crazy ) part number 11012. If you can't find one I can see if my local Kaw dealer has one.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
Be careful if you need to order one. What Kawasaki calls an oil drain plug is much smaller and near the top of the crankcase. What you are looking for is an oil filter cap ( crazy ) part number 11012. If you can't find one I can see if my local Kaw dealer has one.
Every once in a while, an issue will come up about Oil Drain Plugs.
Often times, difficulty removing / cracking loose.

Question: Is there "Torque Specification" on installation ? Has anybody ever looked it up ?

Also, I purchased a six point 3/8 drive socket (tight area, believe center stand mount close ....1/2" socket probably will not fit ) for the purpose but, I've never had mine out as of yet. But, this weekend tear-down... it WILL happen !

Question: Is that a Steel Plug into Aluminum Block ?
Would Anti-Sieze on threads provide any justice ?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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PM replied to Okie...thanks bro...lemme know...

And my local Kaw dealer has em ($38 !!! )...thanks JM

I think the stock bolthead is supposed to be 13mmb ut dont quote me...and yes, you CAN use a socket w/a wobblehead extension on it. And use a 6 point, not a 12...

Today I took my angle grinder out and ground the head sextagonal again to fit a 1/2" socket (was nice and snug too). And even w/o the guts, couldnt get it all the way back in. I cant see a bad o-ring leaving this big a gap, but will get one at the hardware store tomorrow and try again. If that dont work, Im gonna grind the input end down about 1/8" and try it. And I wonder...is 29 deg in my garage...wonder if the below freezing temps would affect it going in. May try to heat it up ambiently tomorrow and see. Its just drivin me nuts because I cant figure it out. Seems like its bottoming out...hmmm...brainstorm...will measure from the bottom out point in the engine, to where the flange goes, then the plug...that'll tell me if the engine itself is buggered up.



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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 09:16 PM
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Mystery to me, and I believe others as well. If Wolfie has not solved the problem by now, ......Wolfie would advise us, wait, obtain a good/better/different Drain Plug.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 11:28 PM
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Dat be da one bruddah...broke my old one today, so def need it...PM me with a price...

Just a NB...I picked up an oversized o-ring today, and seemed like it wouldda done the trick....fit right in the slot too, but rode higher...$0.49 at TruValue...one less beer this week, lol...



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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, btw...if yer plug head is buggered a lot, DO NOT try grinding it flat like I did. Sucker is a one piece cast and is half hollow. In an emergency, an expansion plug may work (bout 3 bucks at TruValue). But you cant use the guts then.

Thanks brother Okie !!!!



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