86 750 Oil Drain Bolt - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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86 750 Oil Drain Bolt

Changed oil yesterday. Was simple project, however previous owner, or maybe their mechanic obviously used open end wrench, or wrong size, etc, and the edges are rounding off. Should be a 17mm I believe, but it doesn't grab corners of bolt to remove, it just slips. Ended up having to use a 16mm and tap it on with a hammer, lightly enough to not damage bolt housing. It came off, but when I change oil next, I'd like too replace with a new, better condition plug and a new o-ring. I could use the 16mm again, but it's not my preferred way to go. Can't find anything on Ebay that I thought reasonable, since they nail ya with shipping after buying a $35 part, thought maybe someone knew of a source, or maybe has a spare or two in decent shape. Any info is helpful, I'm good for this season, and if I have to resort to the 16mm next year instead of being ravaged, so be it. lol. Thanks!
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Last edited by 1RadCJ5; 04-30-2020 at 07:43 AM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 12:30 PM
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Part Number 11012-1483

To be honest, you don't have to take this filter cap/drain plug off every time you do the oil change. It's nice to take a peek at the oil filter screen to make sure nothing bad is in the crankcase. There is another simpler 17mm bolt on the bottom of the engine facing down, near the front right-hand-side of the engine. You can drain the oil from there instead if you don't wanna fiddle with the rounded off nut anymore.

Unfortunately it looks like you've already seen the $35 part + $ 10 shipping, but that's about all I can find on partzilla or ebay as well.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ubertalldude View Post
Part Number 11012-1483

To be honest, you don't have to take this filter cap/drain plug off every time you do the oil change. It's nice to take a peek at the oil filter screen to make sure nothing bad is in the crankcase. There is another simpler 17mm bolt on the bottom of the engine facing down, near the front right-hand-side of the engine. You can drain the oil from there instead if you don't wanna fiddle with the rounded off nut anymore.

Unfortunately it looks like you've already seen the $35 part + $ 10 shipping, but that's about all I can find on partzilla or ebay as well.

Thank You a ton for that info, ubertalldude! I didn't realize there was another drain point. Sounds like it is lower too, will maybe drain a wee bit more out. If I come across the one I thought I'd need, at a decent cost, I may grab it, but to just drain, I will use the drain bolt you referenced. And yes, I did see the ones on Ebay, and not going for it. The 16mm socket I have fits tight, and removes it no problem. I can check the screen every other oil change or so, but not needed anytime soon, just checked and cleaned screen yesterday with carb cleaner and blew dry with air hose. Thanks again!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 10:32 PM
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I always drain the bulk of the oil from the bottom plug, then drain the extra from the oil screen cap. Checking the screen can let you know how the engine is doing, looking for aluminum, chain guide/damper bushing rubber, or clutch material. A little debris can be expected from time to time, but one larger pile or three consecutive smaller piles can be a heads up.

Draining the bottom first mean less oil gushing out of the screen cap on the side.

Just snug the oil screen cap, don't torque it. I dare mine to come loose, and it's always tight when I take it off.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-01-2020, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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I always drain the bulk of the oil from the bottom plug, then drain the extra from the oil screen cap. Checking the screen can let you know how the engine is doing, looking for aluminum, chain guide/damper bushing rubber, or clutch material. A little debris can be expected from time to time, but one larger pile or three consecutive smaller piles can be a heads up.

Draining the bottom first mean less oil gushing out of the screen cap on the side.

Just snug the oil screen cap, don't torque it. I dare mine to come loose, and it's always tight when I take it off.
Thanks Spockster - Am going to use that bolt from here on. Didn't even realize there was a bolt on bottom. Not sure why I thought it was the side one I should use. I did pull the screen to clean. It had only a few tiny flakes of what looked like aluminum. When I changed oil last(2 years prior) maybe 1200 miles ago, it was clean. However, my cam chains were pretty noisy when I got it. I changed the oil then, and installed TOC's self adjusting chain tensioners. Bikes internal chains are as quiet as can be now, and I think that probably where those few random pcs of aluminum flakes came from. I cleaned screen with heavy dose of carb cleaner, wiped off with clean rag, and used compressor from a distance to ensure it was dry and lint free. Now maybe I will take that cap off every other oil change or so, just to check and clean screen. I just snug that cover, or anything aluminum. Not sure what prior owner used, but I can get a 16mm socket on it tightly and it comes right off. Glad its not rounded to hell, or I'd have to spend the dough on a new one. Will still keep an eye out for a good used one on Ebay, but not holding my breathe.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-31-2020, 03:25 PM
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All this info has helped me as well. I just posted asking about screen bolt becoming rounded. Didnt know about the other nut. Ill have to check into the TOC chain tensioner. I need something to fix my loose chains. They can be a bit loud at times so its time to do something. Thanks again.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-02-2020, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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All this info has helped me as well. I just posted asking about screen bolt becoming rounded. Didnt know about the other nut. Ill have to check into the TOC chain tensioner. I need something to fix my loose chains. They can be a bit loud at times so its time to do something. Thanks again.
Hi John Hayden - I'm certainly no expert like the majority of the group. However, instead of the manual adjusters from TOC, I bought the auto adjusters, and they were a breeze to install. Much quieter now. Also, I feel like a meathead not knowing I could drain the oil from under motor, and not undo the aluminum cap, lol. However, I will still remove it every other oil change just to make sure there are no telltale signs of inner engine damage. My cap is just rounded enough, that I can tap on a 16mm socket, and it fits very tight. I just snug it putting it on, so it will come off easily. The replacement plug us available on ebay, but I see no need to spend the $35 at this point.

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