Kawasaki "special tools" for routine maintenance? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Kawasaki "special tools" for routine maintenance?

OK, as I discovered yesterday while putting in new spark plugs, the VN750 originally came with a set of tools designed for the bike. I got this bike very used and it did not come with these tools.

As I mentioned in another thread, I've found a substitute for the 18mm thinwall spark plug socket at Sears. Now, I want to change the oil, and possibly the oil filter as well. In reading ahead as to what tools I might need (not wanting to discover after draining the oil that I'm stymied at some stage), I find that the VN750 manual itself doesn't mention any particular tool, it just says "remove the filter and replace with a new one" (not very helpful). The Clymer book though, at steps 10 and 11, refers to using "the special tool and socket wrench" to remove the filter. In a separate note, it also says The easiest way to remove the oil filter is to use a Kawasaki "cap type" oil filter wrench. For 1985-1993 models, use part No. 57001-1212, on 1994 and later models, use part No. 57001-1259.

Is there any Sears-available wrench that would stand in? Or, do I just order the "special tool" from someplace that sells Kawasaki OEM parts? That's fine, I can wait a week or so to change the oil (I have to order the filter anyway)... But what other "special tools" came with the bike that I should be getting at the same time?

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 01:50 PM
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Most of the "special tools" (except for that spark plug deal) are for more advanced engine repair - pulling the stator, pulling the clutch basket, reseating valves, etc. For oil changes, you can get a variable-width oil filter wrench and you'll be fine; you want to hand-tighten the filter anyway once you replace it, so I wouldn't worry about that one too much. For routine maintenace, you s/b fine with your basics (socket wrenches, combo wrenches, etc.).
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 03:00 PM
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I picked up a little oil filter tool from Autozone that has worked fine for me so far..it is a disc with three spring loaded fingers on it, that open up and and clamp over the top of the filter. You use a standard 3/8 drive ratchet to turn it...which causes the fingers to tighten around the filter and twist it off. Think it cost a whole 7 bucks.

The only special tool I remember that one needs is the tool for holding the clutch basket to remove the hub...not something one needs unless they are rebuilding the engine.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 03:07 PM
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I use a standard band type oil filter wrench or even a strap wrench to get my oil filter off. 17mm box wrench for the drain plugs (I pull both). I drain the majority of the oil from the bottom and finish with the side/screen.
For basic maintenance, normal automotive tools work fine. The only time you need specialty tools is when you get further into the guts of the engine and even then, there are workarounds. The clutch tool is one example. I made one from a cheap vise grip type welding clamp( the pic is posted somewhere on the site), and I used a plain bolt of the proper diameter and thread for the rotor removal tool. Together I think I spent about $6 for both of these tools. Kawasaki's price? $70 for the clutch tool and about $100 for the rotor tool. It can be done!!

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 09:25 PM
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I got a filter cup wrench from cyclegear that works like a charm. Its got a 3/8" square on the other side to ratchet the filter on/off.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 09:53 PM
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I would highly recommend getting a torque wrench also. I bought two clicker types at Harbor Freight Tools for a whopping $37.
(20-200 in. lbs / 20-150 ft.lbs).

Robardin, It's very important to properly torque certain components. Even the oil filter and drain plug has it's specified torque, and so do the spark plugs. I would certainly add these two torque wrenches to you list of "special tools."

Most people just tighten the oil filter 1/4 turn past hand tight, after putting some clean oil on the o-ring. Never had a problem with that, but I do know people who cracked their spark plugs or got the oil drain plug stuck by over tightening them.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 11:19 PM
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I usually just twist off the filter with a tight grip of my hands. I put it on hand tight, and am usually able to take it off the same way. Never leaks.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 11:33 PM
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Yes , torque wrench is a good idea. but not what I'd call a "special tool" as it is not Kawasaki Vulcan specific.

Just like this special tool I use when preforming routine maintanace:











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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 03:31 AM
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Well that explains a lot!

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubyrick View Post
It's very important to properly torque certain components. Even the oil filter and drain plug has it's specified torque, and so do the spark plugs. ... Most people just tighten the oil filter 1/4 turn past hand tight, after putting some clean oil on the o-ring.
Hmm. I do have a torque wrench; well, I think I do -- is that not the same thing as this ratching kind of wrench?



I see Google turns up some other "torque wrenches" that have a metronome-looking thingy attached to it. I've never seen a wrench like that, though it does answer my question, "how the heck am I supposed to know how many foot-lbs. or Nms or what have you I've put on?"

I've always simply followed the "hand tighten or free-turn until it stops, then ratchet tighten 1/4 turn more" rule of thumb, and it's always come out OK.

KM: you use whiskey as an oil additive? I always thought it was a fuel mixture, for oil you need something a little more viscous like Bailey's Irish Cream. Definitely not for topping off brake fluid though, you need a clear alcohol like Vodka for that.

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