Hey everyone, last night I filled up my tank all the way, and then this morning I came out and it appears that a trickle of gas had leaked from the gas cap...but where it was, the paint has bubbled up leaving the raised shape of the trickle all the way down the side of my tank. I almost cried.
Does anybody know of any tricks to get the paint to lay back down and stay? I think I'm pretty much out of luck, but I thought I'd ask. If there's no hope of fixing it, can anyone recommend a touch up paint? Mine is crimson just like the site logo. Any help would be much appreciated.
Sorry but kiss it goodbye - and to be honest, if a trickle of paint over night has caused the paint to bubble up odds are it was either a) not automotive paint or b) the paint job wasn't done correctly to start with.
A few hints for you, from someone who's been an professional auto painter since 1978 *sheesh that shows my age*
1) If you want a nice paint job, it's all in the preparation, so do yourself a favour and when possible, strip it back to bare metal as you never now what's been used prior.
2) ALWAYS have a tin of prepsol (wax and grease remover) on hand as once that beggar is bare tin, even handling it could cause problems down the track from the grease and oils in the hands.
3) Before spraying on UNDERCOAT use a decent etch primer (there's a difference) - it's not done as much today but I'm old skool.
4) Avoid sanding the undercoat with anything coarser than 400 wet
5) If you're after a glass finish and don't have access to a spray booth/oven, it can be time consuming but well worth it. After you lay on a coat of the shinee's from a decent gravity fed spray gun let it sit overnight then block it down with nothing coarse than 800 wet, dry it off, wax and grease it lay on another coat and leave that to dry then go through the sanding process again.
6) If you want a decent paint job but aren't fussed about glass finishes then lay on a coat, allow a min 30 minutes flash time, then lay on another and so on, remember that you can save time by putting a base coat on e.g. if your bike is going to be white use a yellow base coat - sounds bizarre yellow under white but it adds depth.
7) Avoid laying the paint on too wet as THAT causes orange peel (a build up of paint) - overspray is a dry rough to the touch feel in the paint - both can be removed in most cases with sanding, you're just giving yourself more work though.
8) The thing you are painting needs warmth NOT HEAT - leave the tank in the sun to warm up while you are preparing your tools to paint , just enough so the metal is warm NOT hot to the touch - if it's too hot the paint'll go off as soon as it hits it and if it's too cold the paint'll take a month of Sundays to tak off.
9) Avoid spray cans to paint with as they are nasty 'orrible badly mixed (ratio of paint to thinners etc) waste's of space - I will admit they are ideal for tiny jobs and I mean tiny, and touch up's but to do a whole bike with cans is inviting trouble. If you haven't got a compressor and guns - yes GUNS, don't put colour in a gun you've used for undercoat, see about hiring a complete setup but if you've never painted before don't forget to add practice to your hiring time.
I could go on for ages but I won't coz I think you get the idea now.
10) BUFFING/POLISHING eeeeeeeek. There is a difference, prior to buffing with a correct buffing compound and a buffing machine, sand the painted area back with nothing coarser than 1000 wet if it's got orange peel or overspray, 1200 wet if it went on well, followed by a sand back with superfine or 2000 wet - get a bar of soap, wet where you are about to sand and rub the soap on, it helps with stopping the paper from clogging too fast. If you can't buff, prepare it as described and take it to an auto repairer and ask them how much to buff it as buffing is an acquired art in itself and it's quite easy to BURN (buff through) the paint.
- this made me larf, straight gloss off the gun - actually it didn't make me larf, more a case of "geez am I havin a good day or what?"