Paint+gas = problems :( - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
VN750 General Discussion

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-29-2008, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
Bad MammaJamma
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, USA
Posts: 4
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Praetorian
Paint+gas = problems :(

Hey everyone, last night I filled up my tank all the way, and then this morning I came out and it appears that a trickle of gas had leaked from the gas cap...but where it was, the paint has bubbled up leaving the raised shape of the trickle all the way down the side of my tank. I almost cried.

Does anybody know of any tricks to get the paint to lay back down and stay? I think I'm pretty much out of luck, but I thought I'd ask. If there's no hope of fixing it, can anyone recommend a touch up paint? Mine is crimson just like the site logo. Any help would be much appreciated.

-Rich

Did she just ask if I was a holy diver?
Praetorian is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 09:27 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cheyenne Wyoming
Posts: 508
iTrader: (0)
 
If the paint bubbled up it has lost its bond to metal.
Look at one of your automotive paint sellers and they might have something close. If the shop is really good they can read the color with their color eye and get a close mix.

Rckmtn
Dennis Huff
Cheyenne, Wy.
05 VN 750
KURYAKYN grips, helmet locks, and highway pegs
Spitfire windshield
Saddleman saddlebags/sissybar bag
Highwayman gelseat with Protac backrest
self canx turnsignals
Diamondstar headlight modulator
Jardine 2 into 2
MCC turn signal relocator and floorboards
Luggage rack
Extended passenger backrest
KURYAKYN LED voltmeter
Custom tank bra with analog clock
Snider paint protector on tank side
130 DB horns
rckmtn is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 11:14 AM
Senior Member
 
dirtrack650's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Castle Rock, Wa
Posts: 1,750
iTrader: (0)
 
Common problem if you used the wrong type of paint or if the paint did not cure as instructed as directed. Automotive paint is not the same as paint purchased at a hardware store.

If you want a lasting paint job, you will need to strip down to the original paint or bare metal and re-coat with the correct type of paint that can withstand petroleum products - including the primer. It's most important for paint that's not baked on to follow the directions on dry times between coats.

There really is no saving the paint; you can touch up now, but more blister will appear in other locations if exposed to gas. I used Dupli-Color
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/autospray.html
on other projects of mine but am not happy with the 'hardness of the paint'.
Here's a paint tip: Paint in the morning when it's cool to avoid overspray (orange peel) and bake it in the afternoon sun.

Hope this helps,

DT

95 VN750 (eBay)31k+
GL1100 front fender
OEM engine guard
OEM high back rest
'V-Twin' HWY pegs
Black 750 Spectre handlebars
SunPro Volt Meter (Amazon)
Maier bug shield (JCW)
Bar Ends anti-vibe (JCW)
Emgo air filters
Tank bag-Eclipse
Tail bag-FroZone Cooler
Back Rest-Igloo 6 pak cooler
WalMart Saddle Bags
R/R Relocate
Dry Splines Lubed
AGM DieHard-Sears
Gutted Goat
Sporster XL Mufflers
LED's-stop,tail,turn,marker
Pickup coil mod to .45mm
Silverstar headlight
Rotella T6
dirtrack650 is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 06:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 138
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Praetorian View Post
Hey everyone, last night I filled up my tank all the way, and then this morning I came out and it appears that a trickle of gas had leaked from the gas cap...but where it was, the paint has bubbled up leaving the raised shape of the trickle all the way down the side of my tank. I almost cried.

Does anybody know of any tricks to get the paint to lay back down and stay? I think I'm pretty much out of luck, but I thought I'd ask. If there's no hope of fixing it, can anyone recommend a touch up paint? Mine is crimson just like the site logo. Any help would be much appreciated.

-Rich

Sorry but kiss it goodbye - and to be honest, if a trickle of paint over night has caused the paint to bubble up odds are it was either a) not automotive paint or b) the paint job wasn't done correctly to start with.

A few hints for you, from someone who's been an professional auto painter since 1978 *sheesh that shows my age*

1) If you want a nice paint job, it's all in the preparation, so do yourself a favour and when possible, strip it back to bare metal as you never now what's been used prior.
2) ALWAYS have a tin of prepsol (wax and grease remover) on hand as once that beggar is bare tin, even handling it could cause problems down the track from the grease and oils in the hands.
3) Before spraying on UNDERCOAT use a decent etch primer (there's a difference) - it's not done as much today but I'm old skool.
4) Avoid sanding the undercoat with anything coarser than 400 wet
5) If you're after a glass finish and don't have access to a spray booth/oven, it can be time consuming but well worth it. After you lay on a coat of the shinee's from a decent gravity fed spray gun let it sit overnight then block it down with nothing coarse than 800 wet, dry it off, wax and grease it lay on another coat and leave that to dry then go through the sanding process again.
6) If you want a decent paint job but aren't fussed about glass finishes then lay on a coat, allow a min 30 minutes flash time, then lay on another and so on, remember that you can save time by putting a base coat on e.g. if your bike is going to be white use a yellow base coat - sounds bizarre yellow under white but it adds depth.
7) Avoid laying the paint on too wet as THAT causes orange peel (a build up of paint) - overspray is a dry rough to the touch feel in the paint - both can be removed in most cases with sanding, you're just giving yourself more work though.
8) The thing you are painting needs warmth NOT HEAT - leave the tank in the sun to warm up while you are preparing your tools to paint , just enough so the metal is warm NOT hot to the touch - if it's too hot the paint'll go off as soon as it hits it and if it's too cold the paint'll take a month of Sundays to tak off.
9) Avoid spray cans to paint with as they are nasty 'orrible badly mixed (ratio of paint to thinners etc) waste's of space - I will admit they are ideal for tiny jobs and I mean tiny, and touch up's but to do a whole bike with cans is inviting trouble. If you haven't got a compressor and guns - yes GUNS, don't put colour in a gun you've used for undercoat, see about hiring a complete setup but if you've never painted before don't forget to add practice to your hiring time.

I could go on for ages but I won't coz I think you get the idea now.

Forgot summut:

10) BUFFING/POLISHING eeeeeeeek. There is a difference, prior to buffing with a correct buffing compound and a buffing machine, sand the painted area back with nothing coarser than 1000 wet if it's got orange peel or overspray, 1200 wet if it went on well, followed by a sand back with superfine or 2000 wet - get a bar of soap, wet where you are about to sand and rub the soap on, it helps with stopping the paper from clogging too fast. If you can't buff, prepare it as described and take it to an auto repairer and ask them how much to buff it as buffing is an acquired art in itself and it's quite easy to BURN (buff through) the paint.

- this made me larf, straight gloss off the gun - actually it didn't make me larf, more a case of "geez am I havin a good day or what?"

Last edited by compadres_carl; 08-30-2008 at 07:16 PM. Reason: forgot summut
compadres_carl is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 08:02 PM
Senior Member
 
dirtrack650's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Castle Rock, Wa
Posts: 1,750
iTrader: (0)
 
VG info on painting, I liked it.

"BUFFING/POLISHING eeeeeeeek"

That is old school LOL. So am I ;-)

DT

95 VN750 (eBay)31k+
GL1100 front fender
OEM engine guard
OEM high back rest
'V-Twin' HWY pegs
Black 750 Spectre handlebars
SunPro Volt Meter (Amazon)
Maier bug shield (JCW)
Bar Ends anti-vibe (JCW)
Emgo air filters
Tank bag-Eclipse
Tail bag-FroZone Cooler
Back Rest-Igloo 6 pak cooler
WalMart Saddle Bags
R/R Relocate
Dry Splines Lubed
AGM DieHard-Sears
Gutted Goat
Sporster XL Mufflers
LED's-stop,tail,turn,marker
Pickup coil mod to .45mm
Silverstar headlight
Rotella T6
dirtrack650 is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 09:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 138
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrack650 View Post
VG info on painting, I liked it.

"BUFFING/POLISHING eeeeeeeek"

That is old school LOL. So am I ;-)

DT
Nothing like old school unfortunately, a lot of these youngster's seem to think that they know it all where those of us that have been round a while have probably forgotten more than they'll ever know :P

Personally I only paint with acrylic, I flat refuse to use 2pak - granted you don't have to buff 2pak (if you don't want to) but in saying that, if you don't get the ratios right it's easier to muck it up.

Stripping back to bare metal especially on a bike is a no brainer - you should always do it simply because you just don't know what's under the old paint - unless of course you've previously painted it.
Mine had what appeared to be a stock paint job with one visible dent, so as is my want, off came the paint and what do I find? A repair in another tiny dent - so that was two that needed repairing but if you look at my tank now you won't find either because of all the preparations.

Mechanicals I'm a hack - which means I get there in the end.
Electricals I'm hopeless with.
Paint - I'm good thanks - except I still hate buffing
compadres_carl is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 12:40 PM
Member
 
dev110's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 50
iTrader: (0)
 
how about a racing stripe?
dev110 is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
Bad MammaJamma
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, USA
Posts: 4
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Praetorian
thanks

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. The paint is just the normal stock paint, perhaps they didn't do it very well at the factory or something. I'll be sure next time I fill up that I avoid this. As far as the bubbling...on the Kawasaki site they say they use Color rite paint, so I went on their site and ordered a touch up pen of primer and of the base and top layers. The trickle really is small, it's not like I'm losing the entire side or anything, so I'm hoping this will be able to fill it in. When it gets here I'll chip it off and use that grease and wax remover. I'll probably sand and buff it too, when the time is right. Hopefully in the end it will be hardly noticeable.

But you're right Carl, I'm 22 and and one thing I do know is that I don't know SQUAT about a lot of things. I can just ride the motorcycle decently.

Thanks again guys!

Did she just ask if I was a holy diver?
Praetorian is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 12:16 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
ChrisC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 405
iTrader: (3)
 
Carl, Awesome info on the process! I've been kicking around the idea of painting the bike this winter. Never having done a full paint job, only touch up, your tips are invaluable. I bookmarked the post, and will probably have a couple of questions for you down the road. THANKS!

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
ChrisC is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome