Screw extractor; What am I doing wrong? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-22-2008, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Question Screw extractor; What am I doing wrong?

I've had to deal with a bunch of stripped/stuck screws/bolts on the bike recently. The PO seemed to be fond of destroying phillips head screws, and cross threading. The most recent ones I discovered over the past couple of days; the bottom bolt holding the backrest, one of the screws on the master cylinder, and one of the screws on the helmet locks. The master cylinder screw I managed to get out with an impact driver, PB Blaster, and heat (a lot of PB Blaster!) The other two were way too far gone. I have been trying to drill out the center and then use a screw extractor (both coarse and fine grained extractors). I'm not having much joy! The extractors just don't seem to want to grab. I figure I must be doing something wrong. Any tips on the proper way to do this would be immensely appreciated as usual!! I am very frustrated at this point. Thanks!

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-22-2008, 11:39 PM
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A dremel is your friend when it comes to really stripped screws and bolts.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-22-2008, 11:45 PM
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Extractors seldom work on rusted or soft bolts. Spray the bolt and let set for at least 24 hrs, then if they don't move use the dremel or a left handed drill bit. Drill smaller and retap if necessary.

Rckmtn
Dennis Huff
Cheyenne, Wy.
05 VN 750
KURYAKYN grips, helmet locks, and highway pegs
Spitfire windshield
Saddleman saddlebags/sissybar bag
Highwayman gelseat with Protac backrest
self canx turnsignals
Diamondstar headlight modulator
Jardine 2 into 2
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 12:47 AM
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Chris get yourself a set of left-handed drills, they work well on the soft, smaller bolts. Just drill like your going to use an extractor and most of the time the drill will stick and since it's turning counter-clockwise, combined with the heat of drilling the bolt will screw out. I bought a set at Harbor Freight

Drill Master

Glenn

1985 VN700
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Small Sport Windshield
R/R moved
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Kaw touring front fender
1990 Fuel tank
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Last edited by Glenn M; 08-23-2008 at 12:49 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 08:16 AM
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I don't think I've ever had any luck with those "drill a hole, the extract" bolt-out things. I sometimes wonder why they make them. I also wonder why they make phillips head screws - if one can have a "least favorite fastener," the p-head screw would be mine, especially when they decide that it should be made of soft aluminum.

Seems like you're doing all the right things - PB, heat, bolt-outs-until-they-ruin-the-fastener, and drilling. With the master cyl, you can probably drain the brake fluid, pull the MC off of everything, and try getting a clean shot down the center of the screw with a drill. And as rckmtn said, retap if you need to (that's the next set of things you'll want to get for your toolbox ).

C
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 10:39 AM
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The screws in the master cylinder can be esp. tricky because of the way they are recessed. If you get a dremmel in there, you'll mess up the cover (I'm assuming you're talking about the two screws in the cover). I'll tell you what I'd done before. I'd read it somewhere and thought it was a bit goofy, but it worked like a charm.

I took a drill equal to or maybe slightly larger than the shaft of the screw. Granted, you sort of have to guess at this, but you can do pretty well. Then I just drilled down until the V shaped head of the screw came off. That way, you can get the cover off. Then you can get a pair of pliers on the shaft of the screw and turn it out. You may well find, as I did, once you relieved the pressure by removing the head, the shaft can be turned out by hand.
Good luck to you.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the feedback!! I managed to ge tthe MC screw out with PB, heat and the impact driver. I removed the one holding the helmet locks by drilling until the head came off, and luckily there was enough to grab with the lock pliers. The one on the back rest is too soft to grab with the pliers, I think I am going to need to use a left hand drill bit on that one. Glenn, I'll be picking up that set from Harbor Freight on Monday. Thanks again for the help; you guys (and girls!) are the greatest!!

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2008, 10:45 PM
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"I also wonder why they make phillips head screws - if one can have a "least favorite fastener," the p-head screw would be mine, especially when they decide that it should be made of soft aluminum."

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is not much you can do about a PO who has buggered up a screw or bolt head on your bike. But speaking from experience, using a good quality HARDENED tipped Phillips screwdriver will reduce the problems by at least half. Also make sure any paint, dirt or other crud in the screw head is cleaned out so the screwdriver is all the way in. Use something pointy to clean out that screw head and you will be surprised at some of the previously "hopeless" cases that will now come out. Then throw all your cheap screwdrivers into your drawer of scrapers and pry bars. The good driver will be a few dollars more than the one in the bargain bin, but IMHO it is money well spent .

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2008, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Just an FYI, I picked up a power extractor set from Sears last week while I was looking for a left hand bit set, and it removed the bolt for the back rest that was giving me fits. You can check it out HERE. It's a two step process, but the tool acts as a left hand drill and extractor. It worked great!

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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