Just got my Vulcan back from shop: - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Just got my Vulcan back from shop:

OK, so I decided to forego the DIY carb clean and took my bike into a fairly reputable shop here in town for that purpose.

On top of the carb clean, I discovered that whoever had the bike before put something in the coolant reservoir that they weren't supposed to, so I had to flush that, had to put in a new bladder and other various parts for the carbs, had to get a new front tire, and a few other minor things. Now, the bike runs smoother. The choppiness is gone. When they went into the bike, they somehow broke the return cable, and I have a new return cable and throttle cable on order.

That being said, although the bike runs smoother, it seems to have lost some power. Is this normal for a carb clean? Could the return cable have anything to do with that? Before I took it in, she was actually pretty responsive out of the gate. From zero to 40 or so, I could pretty much take most cars. Now, I have to twist the throttle a lot more to get her going. Is she still getting used to the carbs being cleaned like they were? Will this change once the new cables are installed this week?

It's not horrible, but it's noticeable to me because I remember how she was before.

Mike's Moving
Orlando, Florida

2002 VN750

Need to know the part number to a confirmed 18mm Deep Well socket bit to change your VN750's spark plugs?

Craftsman Part Number 50728
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 06:59 AM
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I experienced a similar problem when I shipped my carbs for a "professional" rebuild. The bike runs great, plugs look normal, but there is a noticeable lack of power. I've done all I know to do and haven't found anything. It's still strong, but not like before the carb work. Wish I could offer some advice but I have none. If you come up with anything, I'd like to know.

"Katie"
2002 VN 750, stock except for accessories
Mustang seat
Super Bright LED brake strobe on trunk
About 25k miles
All drive train maintenance performed, drive shaft coupler replaced
Way more experienced at pulling VN 750 carbs than I ever wanted to be.
TOC ACCT rebuild kits installed
Pick up coil mod
Cooling system flushed, refilled with fresh coolant
Petcock rebuilt
VN sold, current steed Honda ST 1300
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsavant View Post
I experienced a similar problem when I shipped my carbs for a "professional" rebuild. The bike runs great, plugs look normal, but there is a noticeable lack of power. I've done all I know to do and haven't found anything. It's still strong, but not like before the carb work. Wish I could offer some advice but I have none. If you come up with anything, I'd like to know.
Did that lack of power stay gone? I assume from the way you said it, it did. Was kinda hoping this would be a "phase" until it works through the system or something, or that it was somehow related to the broken return cable, which hasn't been fixed, yet.

Mike's Moving
Orlando, Florida

2002 VN750

Need to know the part number to a confirmed 18mm Deep Well socket bit to change your VN750's spark plugs?

Craftsman Part Number 50728
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrlandoVulcan View Post
OK, so I decided to forego the DIY carb clean and took my bike into a fairly reputable shop here in town for that purpose.

On top of the carb clean, I discovered that whoever had the bike before put something in the coolant reservoir that they weren't supposed to, so I had to flush that, had to put in a new bladder and other various parts for the carbs, had to get a new front tire, and a few other minor things. Now, the bike runs smoother. The choppiness is gone. When they went into the bike, they somehow broke the return cable, and I have a new return cable and throttle cable on order.

That being said, although the bike runs smoother, it seems to have lost some power. Is this normal for a carb clean? Could the return cable have anything to do with that? Before I took it in, she was actually pretty responsive out of the gate. From zero to 40 or so, I could pretty much take most cars. Now, I have to twist the throttle a lot more to get her going. Is she still getting used to the carbs being cleaned like they were? Will this change once the new cables are installed this week?

It's not horrible, but it's noticeable to me because I remember how she was before.
No it's not normal for a carb clean. If the carbs were cleaned and put back together properly I would say you have a fuel delivery problem. Either a low fuel level in the float bowl or a problem with the float needle valve. Did they adjust the float level to spec? Are the butterfly valves opening fully?

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
No it's not normal for a carb clean. If the carbs were cleaned and put back together properly I would say you have a fuel delivery problem. Either a low fuel level in the float bowl or a problem with the float needle valve. Did they adjust the float level to spec? Are the butterfly valves opening fully?
I couldn't accurately answer those questions because I didn't do the work, and I don't know the terminology. Is this something I can check for myself?

Mike's Moving
Orlando, Florida

2002 VN750

Need to know the part number to a confirmed 18mm Deep Well socket bit to change your VN750's spark plugs?

Craftsman Part Number 50728
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrlandoVulcan View Post
I couldn't accurately answer those questions because I didn't do the work, and I don't know the terminology. Is this something I can check for myself?
They should have checked and adjusted the floats when the carbs were off the bike. Same goes for the butterfly valves. You can check to see that the accelerator cable is opening the throttle control plate fully against the stop. That will show you that at least the cable is calling for full throttle.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 10:27 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrlandoVulcan View Post
OK, so I decided to forego the DIY carb clean and took my bike into a fairly reputable shop here in town for that purpose.

On top of the carb clean, I discovered that whoever had the bike before put something in the coolant reservoir that they weren't supposed to, so I had to flush that, had to put in a new bladder and other various parts for the carbs, had to get a new front tire, and a few other minor things. Now, the bike runs smoother. The choppiness is gone. When they went into the bike, they somehow broke the return cable, and I have a new return cable and throttle cable on order.

That being said, although the bike runs smoother, it seems to have lost some power. Is this normal for a carb clean? Could the return cable have anything to do with that? Before I took it in, she was actually pretty responsive out of the gate. From zero to 40 or so, I could pretty much take most cars. Now, I have to twist the throttle a lot more to get her going. Is she still getting used to the carbs being cleaned like they were? Will this change once the new cables are installed this week?

It's not horrible, but it's noticeable to me because I remember how she was before.
I believe the Throttle Return Cable is a tad longer than the Throttle Cable.

Is it possible the shop broke the Throttle Cable, then swapped with Throttle Return Cable..........not knowing they are different lengths ?
Now the bike throttle does not allow true WOT ?
.....just a theory......

WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 05-11-2015 at 10:33 AM.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 10:49 AM
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Any difference in cable length can be adjusted. I hooked mine up backwards and couldn't tell
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 10:54 AM
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^
Good thought. The accelerator cable is shorter. Worth checking out.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowley1027 View Post
Any difference in cable length can be adjusted. I hooked mine up backwards and couldn't tell
What about the cable guide on the accelerator cable?

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
JM2001 is offline  
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