Winterizing fuel system for storage - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Winterizing fuel system for storage

Some one suggested that I should shut off the fuel valve while the bike is running to clear the gas out of the carbs for winter storage. I only use ethanol free gas, along with Sea Foam, so I don't use that blue additive. Last year I just filled up the tank and didn't worry any further about it. What do you do to winterize your fuel system, if anything?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 12:59 PM
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I have always advocated the following for winter storage..regardless of vehicle type, or ethanol in the fuel.

full tank (reduces condensation in the tank), and use a fuel treatment (I usually used stabil). an empty tank (totally empty that is) is ok as well, but I would leave the cap off to allow air exchange and reduce condensation)

if possible, drain the carb(s), either by shutting off fuel and running until it dies, or using drains on carbs equipped. this is also regardless of ethanol or not. even pure gasoline will have evaporation and lead to gummy shiat , or varnish in the carb.

on 2 stroke engines a fogging oil is pretty much a must as well, 4 stroke, not so much. However a little oil fogging in the cylinders wont hurt a doggone thing, and will help prevent rusting from sitting.

fresh oil in crank case (do this before draining carbs, so you can circulate it).

disconnect battery, and keep it indoors if possible, or at least keep it from freezing... also, don't place it directly on a concrete floor, for some reason, that will cause it to go dead.. don't know why, but it does. sitting on a piece of wood, which is on floor is ok. and if possible, a battery tender.

on a 'heavy vehicle' such as a car, I would also put it on blocks to take at least 50% of the weight of the vehicle off the tires... been thru many tires that irreversabley flat spotted due to sitting 6 months with 4k lbs on them.

did all of the above on a few boats, couple of motorhomes, and sno-mobiles (call it summarizing, same steps), and cars.. never had a problem with them starting up in the spring

there are a lot of other things to look at if your going to do longer term storage, but that stuff above covers the winter stuff.

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Last edited by michiganteddybear; 11-15-2014 at 01:02 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 01:17 PM
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I'd just drain the carbs using the handy drain screws...

Agree with filling the tank, adding Sea Foam, changing the oil (unless you have already in the past 3 months) and wouldn't "fog" the cylinders unless you plan on not riding it for more than 4 months.

A lot depends on where your bike is being stored... Outside? In an unheated garage?
If you can, block the bike up do the tires aren't touching the ground.


All I ever do is fill the tank, add some seafoam - running the bike so it gets through the system- and I charge the battery every 6 weeks if I'm not riding.
(I don't like the idea of leaving the battery constantly on a charger...if it's chargered, why keep charging it?)

It's also a good idea to cover the bike with a sheet, and place a can of mothballs under it to keep bugs and tiny critters from making it their winter home....
(I had a mouse that wanted to live in the tail compartment on my FJR)

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Last edited by Knifemaker; 11-15-2014 at 01:19 PM.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
I'd just drain the carbs using the handy drain screws...

Agree with filling the tank, adding Sea Foam, changing the oil (unless you have already in the past 3 months) and wouldn't "fog" the cylinders unless you plan on not riding it for more than 4 months.

A lot depends on where your bike is being stored... Outside? In an unheated garage?
If you can, block the bike up do the tires aren't touching the ground.


All I ever do is fill the tank, add some seafoam - running the bike so it gets through the system- and I charge the battery every 6 weeks if I'm not riding.
(I don't like the idea of leaving the battery constantly on a charger...if it's chargered, why keep charging it?)

It's also a good idea to cover the bike with a sheet, and place a can of mothballs under it to keep bugs and tiny critters from making it their winter home....
(I had a mouse that wanted to live in the tail compartment on my FJR)
pretty much what I said.. with the addition of the mothballs.. what I listed was not motorcycle specific, but more of an internal combustion generic.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-17-2014, 06:22 PM
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I usually winterize mine by twisting that little thingy where your right hand goes.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-17-2014, 07:42 PM
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I've always winterized mine by keeping sea foam in the tank & starting her up every couple weeks & let her run for 10 min or so.
So when the weather permits, I could just go!
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 04:07 PM
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I just put the liner in my riding jacket. Winterization: done

-Robert
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
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I just put the liner in my riding jacket. Winterization: done

-Robert
Ditto. Mesh jacket and pants moved to basement closet ....cold weather gear moved up. Wool socks to sock drawer. Breath guard and Pinlock installed on helmet.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 09:56 PM
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can our bikes handle heated gloves. or is it too much on the charging system.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emtdon View Post
can our bikes handle heated gloves. or is it too much on the charging system.
You need to know how many watts they use, but most I've seen don't use more than 40 watts - the bike can handle up to 75 watts before things go bad. Keep in mind that 75 is under "ideal" conditions. I'd try not to actually approach it.

I ran 40w driving lights...and noticed charging problems when stuck in traffic if they were on. (I just switched them off)

I advise you to have a voltmeter on your bike if you plan on adding any electrical accessories.

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