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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Baking Soda Blasting

Ok, so I got this sidecar to go on the 90 wing because it came off a 90 and I wouldn't have to paint it..
Got the sidecar home, and now the bike looks 17 years old with the paint being all "frackled" (my term for faded and with little veiny, webbing looking cracks all through the paint)

Good news.. One of my christmas presents.. Bike will be repainted.

Take all the parts off, load them up in the X-Terra (X-Terra now full of bike parts, we'll have to eat out since I can't get groceries!)

Go down and talk to my paint guy, paint code in hand.. "Let's go see what you have this time" he says.. Pop open the back hatch and his mouth drops almost as far down as the hatch goes up..
Haven't counted all the parts but 30 doesn't sound like a bad estimate..
He checks out the paint, looks at the pile and groans. Two months he says.. everything has to be sanded down
But.... If I want to do that, and feed him the pieces, leaving the few with small cracks that need repairing til the end. I could probably have them after the first of the year.

So.. Now I have to learn about Baking Soda Blasting. I figure my Sam's Club card should supply me with access to large quantities of Baking soda, and my paint guy has even offered to loan me his small soda blaster, but I would like to have my own so we could work on the pieces during the week.

SO.. the whole purpose of this post
Anyone ever use one? Buy one? Any tips? Would it be best to sand the large areas by hand and leave the Soda blast to the hard to get places or just as easy to hit everything with the Soda blaster?
Anyone free this weekend and want to learn about paint-prep on a first hand basis? *G*

Dianna
Conway, AR
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2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 11:37 PM
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If you were closer I would be there with Chili cooking .
I used to work for a Body shop, All you are doing is Sandblasting but with Baking Soda, it is softer and wont damage plastic or fiberglass.
Thin metal can als warp with sand from the heat.

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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I did find this..
http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html
and Northern tool has the baking soda media in 50 lb bags for $40. I'm going to check with my paint guy to see if I can use regular Arm and Hammer or if the media does better.

We have a pressure washer and I'm pretty proficent with that so controlling the blast shouldn't be too bad. And yeah, the goldwing parts to be painted are all plastic, that's why we're referred to as the Tupperware Brigade *L*

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna View Post
I did find this..
http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html
and Northern tool has the baking soda media in 50 lb bags for $40. I'm going to check with my paint guy to see if I can use regular Arm and Hammer or if the media does better.

We have a pressure washer and I'm pretty proficent with that so controlling the blast shouldn't be too bad. And yeah, the goldwing parts to be painted are all plastic, that's why we're referred to as the Tupperware Brigade *L*
The problem is it is really messy unless you have a blast cabinet. Otherwise you can set up a space in your garage completely enclosed in plastic sheeting. Then the problem becomes breathing! Not sure if a mask is all that is needed with soda or if you need a breathing air source? You can then reuse the soda to make it last longer. If you do it out in the open you will have soda everywhere and also won't be able to reuse it. Good luck!

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https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5385
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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I never even considered reusing the baking soda since I figured it would be mixed in with bits of paint, clear coat and crud. The one thing really appealing with baking soda is it is environmently friendly and can be just washed away, especially off the parts I'd be working with. (sand seems to linger in every nook and cranny.)
Plans are to work in the open end of the garage with plastic sheets closing off the rest of the garage

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna View Post
I never even considered reusing the baking soda since I figured it would be mixed in with bits of paint, clear coat and crud. The one thing really appealing with baking soda is it is environmently friendly and can be just washed away, especially off the parts I'd be working with. (sand seems to linger in every nook and cranny.)
Plans are to work in the open end of the garage with plastic sheets closing off the rest of the garage
You should be able to reuse it 1 or 2 times if you are careful. A little paint and clear coat mixed it will not hurt it. Obviously there reaches a point where too much contamination will hinder the process. But reusing what you can should help lower your cost. You might want to pass it through a course screen to remove any of the big pieces of "crud"!

97 VN 750
R&R Relocated
Degoated
Marbled
Ears Shaved/Rejetted
MF/AGM Battery
Irridium Plugs
Spring Solo Seat
32 Ford Model A Tail Light
Custom 2 into 1 Exhaust with 12 inch Glass Pack

Rear bobbed and hard-tailed!
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5385
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 03:58 PM
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Did anyone mention you need a BIG air compressor? (60 gal, 4 - 5 hp). Other media that works on soft material is glass bead. Got to be careful with any of the compounds by using a good breathing filter setup. Some of the dust you are stripping can be dangerous - especially fiberglass (the fibers tend to embed themselves in your lungs).
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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I have a 5 hp 26 gallon Husky Pro ompressor which should be fine for the smaller portable unit I'll be using. If I was going the next step up then yeah I could see going with a 60 gallon
(Don't say anything to my husband cause after we got the 26 gallon one he saw the 60 gallon.. but we would have to add on to the workshop in order to house the darn thing!)

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 11:07 PM
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CFM . is what matters on the compressor. Find out what is advised or what the blaster requires. Low air flow at high pressure doesn't accomplish much. Be very careful if you use glass beads some of them are very aggressive. Type V plastic media might be a better choice if you can find it. And DITTO on the respiratory protection, use a full face respirator with HEPA cartridges while blasting. If you have an aircraft paint facility in you area you might get them to blast ir fairly cheaply.

Rckmtn
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 03:59 PM
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CFM, you're right. My blast cab has a rating of 10 CFM minimum. Another place that might do the work cheaper is a voc tech school that has a auto painting shop. The students would make it a class project.
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