Leaking radiator seam - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Leaking radiator seam

The top seam of my radiator has a slight leak (maybe only when really hot too). I'm guessing a normal radiator shop won't want to work on this type of radiator. Any recommendations?

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 07:54 PM
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Arrrgh! A seam leak, I'd bet you could just get it sodered by any old school plumber or radiator shop. Use plenty of flux to draw it in.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 08:24 PM
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RobertGary....if we knew where you were from, maybe we could point you in the right direction.....theres a shop 50 mi from me that specializes in just radiators......many shops wont even do aluminum....Kent Radiator in Rockland Co, NY (Nanuet, NY) are experts....in biz for 60 yrs.....or depending where you are....try a foreign car repair shop.....

Or you can RetroFit a similar off am MG or Austin Heally....

I repaired a VN750 radiator for someone once using JB Weld....not JB Quick...you need to clean the spot to bare metal, apply a small patch, and just before it cures, "stuff" it in there.....then a light sanding with 40, and a larger patch over that....



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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 09:17 PM
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What about trying to repair it with some of that aluminum brazing rod from Harbor Freight? (or any such other hardware store)

Seems to be almost the same a soldering copper pipe. Heat the item with a torch till its hot enough to melt the brazing rod on its own, apply the rod and let it flow into the crack.
I imagine that there is also an appropriate type of flux for the application as well...

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-14-2014, 02:54 AM
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its a little harder than you might think... I tried to braze a radiator tank once on a truck... it didn't come out too well... the more i heated the tank, the more of the joint came unbrazed... I ended up taking larger diameter brazing rod and formed into the shape of the seams, then using some smaller diameter rod brazed the seam to the larger rod... keeping as much of the heat as I could to the filler rod... it worked for a year or two until the head cracked and I lost the radiator all together from heat expansion.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
RobertGary....if we knew where you were from, maybe we could point you in the right direction.....theres a shop 50 mi from me that specializes in just radiators......many shops wont even do aluminum....Kent Radiator in Rockland Co, NY (Nanuet, NY) are experts....in biz for 60 yrs.....or depending where you are....try a foreign car repair shop.....

Or you can RetroFit a similar off am MG or Austin Heally....

I repaired a VN750 radiator for someone once using JB Weld....not JB Quick...you need to clean the spot to bare metal, apply a small patch, and just before it cures, "stuff" it in there.....then a light sanding with 40, and a larger patch over that....
mine's still holding...haven't had time to put my other one back on

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 06:32 PM
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Proof positive that if ya do a JB Weld patch, it can survive Doc.....lol



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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
its a little harder than you might think... I tried to braze a radiator tank once on a truck... it didn't come out too well... the more i heated the tank, the more of the joint came unbrazed... I ended up taking larger diameter brazing rod and formed into the shape of the seams, then using some smaller diameter rod brazed the seam to the larger rod... keeping as much of the heat as I could to the filler rod... it worked for a year or two until the head cracked and I lost the radiator all together from heat expansion.
I never thought about it melting further down as you heated it. Guess you could try a solder with more lead for the lower melting point but that would be a pain.

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