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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Upcoming mods / 30k service

This weekend is the weekend to do my 30k service. I picked up my 96 a couple weeks ago and have been slowly picking up parts for the 30k service / parts to replace items that were questionable IMHO. I think that with the Haynes manual, factory manual, and the Verses, it should not be too incredibly difficult. That being said, if anyone has any input on bonehead mistakes that newbies make which are best avoided, please sound off. I'm a pretty good wrench, but most of my past experience is wrenching on cars. I've done some wrenching on my ninja, but not a whole lot. HEre's a list of the mods I'm doing in addition to the 30k service:


throttle / speedo / clutch cables (Motion Pro armor coat)
brake lines and pads (Galfer steel lines / kevlar pads)
ignition/gas cap lock/helmet locks (both are missing and have bolts snapped off in the holes...)

Mods I've already done cause I couldn't wait:

K&N filters (not pods)
Idle mixture (popping on decel eliminated w/out any other mods
New Venom tires
General "chrome" cleaning (the whle bike had a nice coating of yellowish schmutz)

Rubber side up!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 01:32 PM
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rubber side up?

hope you meant , chrome side up,rubber side down.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 08:25 PM
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Take careful note of where the various cables are routed. A misrouted cable can be a pain to troubleshoot because you least suspect it. Don't ask me how I know.
The easiest way is to use the existing cable as a fish tape and pull the new cable in where the old cable was as you pull the old cable.
When replacing the brake lines, be aware that an air bubble sometimes forms in the master cylinder where the actuating piston sits that no amount of bleeding will dislodge. I tapped the master cylinder case lightly with a screwdriver handle while pumping the brake handle rapidly to dislodge most of the bubbles but it was riding that got the last of the air out.

Be careful with the clutch lever as it has an interlock switch with a pin that sticks out that is easy to break. It's also easy to fix but if you don't have too...

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-03-2007, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, borke it good! Just kidding. I saw that in a few posts so that was the first thing I kept an eye on. Got all my cables hooked up and they look fantastic! MotionPro Armor Coat cables rock! I installed the Galfer brake lines and pads and essentially put everything together at this point. One glitch that came up is when I removed the tank, all of a sudden I got a coolant leak from the water pipe on the rear cylinder at the top of the head. No reason, it just started dripping. A quick trip to Kawi dealer fixed it, but man was that a pig to get out and reinstall. The o ring was so deformed it looked like an old rubber band. The front brakes are still dry. I'll be finishing that up in the morning. But I couldn't wait to see if it would fire, considering everything that I took apart / disconnected today. Put the key in and she fired right up, no choke, no gas. ROCK! It's pretty satisfying to wrench that much on the bike and have it turn out right. Thanks to Verses and all those that contribute to the forum. Without the info I got here, I wouldn't have been able to pull this off.

And yes, I meant rubber side down! Ride your ride and stay alive!
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