Question/s about applying clearcoat - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Question/s about applying clearcoat

I already started, but now I'm not sure how long one waits to apply a second coat. And how the heck do ya tell if it's dry? And should it be just two coats, or is more the merrier?

Time is of the essence: I'm sitting here in my painting "suit" with gloves, glasses, and respirator thing by my side. Anyone got any hints before I screw this up in the final stages???

C
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 08:34 PM
 
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The beautiful thing about clear coat is you can always wet sand it. Take atleast an hour between coats. Clear tends to be thinner than color so it will run if your not careful. Also, bring your air pressur back a little and you should be fine. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 01:02 AM
 
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In the correct termanology here Cindy you can apply coats after the clear has flashed over. That is in between wet and dry. If you can apply as many coats as you like. I would put two coats on before you even attempt to wet sand it that way you have less of a chance of sanding through the clear coat into the color coat (That is BAD!!!). I would wet sand in the 2-4 coats with 1000 grit. Make sure to constantly rinse your sand paper in a bucket of water to "clean" it or you might be harming it more than you are helping it. Dirty sand paper can goudge into the clear. You dont want to put to many coats of clear on because clear coat with age isnt so clear it tends to yellow. Best of luck and cant wait to see pictures. Hope you have been taking pictures through out the process to show it off.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbuehlz View Post
In the correct termanology here Cindy you can apply coats after the clear has flashed over. That is in between wet and dry. If you can apply as many coats as you like. I would put two coats on before you even attempt to wet sand it that way you have less of a chance of sanding through the clear coat into the color coat (That is BAD!!!). I would wet sand in the 2-4 coats with 1000 grit. Make sure to constantly rinse your sand paper in a bucket of water to "clean" it or you might be harming it more than you are helping it. Dirty sand paper can goudge into the clear. You dont want to put to many coats of clear on because clear coat with age isnt so clear it tends to yellow. Best of luck and cant wait to see pictures. Hope you have been taking pictures through out the process to show it off.
Thanks, guys! I got two coats on last night, and it looks ok this a.m. tho' it really needs a good sanding/polishing. I'll see if I can find some 800 or 1000 grit this evening on the way home from work. To get the "look" that the tins should have when I'm done, do I fine-sand and then polish? And if I polish, what's the best tool for the job? (This is one giant learning experience, so I apologize in advance for what I know are basic questions.)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 12:23 PM
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Read the can

Different brands/types of paint require different wait times between coats when you let the paint harden. Some require that you not re-coat for 5 days if you wait too long (more than 2 hours after sprayng) some don't.

Clear coats should dry with a high gloss, if not, use a rubbing compound recommended by the manufacturer, not sandpaper. Follow the rubbing with polishing compound, then wax (as many coats as you wish). Again, read the label as you may need to wait for this step too.

I usually do 6 clear coats on my work sanding with 500 - 800 grit between coats with plenty of water. If you are doing your gas tank, make sure the paint is hardened before filling with gas or bad things might happen to your paint job you worked so hard on.

Please post picts, I'd love to see your finished work.

Dirtrack.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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I found this link on my work PC this a.m.:
http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

Is what this guy says reasonably true? Particularly about not fretting over the "orange peel" look? If so, I was thinking about applying a couple more rounds of clearcoat, letting that dry solidly, and then wet sanding after that. I haven't sanded between coats (of clearcoat) - please tell me I haven't ruined it and will have to start over (or, if you do have to tell me that, tell me gently).
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 12:51 PM
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Nice Harley Page

Good stuff, if you are using lacquer. The final product is beautiful, but lacquer is a lot of work, it's thin requiring many coats, and as stated, must be buffed for a gloss. I hope I never see those days again.

I suggest a book on automotive / cycle painting from the library or book store. It's good stuff and will give you some creative ideas what the weekend painter can do. I did the grave yard, skull, smoke, mural on tank stuff for a while like Ghost Rider work. I got to the point where I was never satisfied so gave it up and decided to play tuba instead.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=dirtrack650;43488]Good stuff, if you are using lacquer. The final product is beautiful, but lacquer is a lot of work, it's thin requiring many coats, and as stated, must be buffed for a gloss. I hope I never see those days again.

QUOTE]
I bought HOK paint 'cause I figured once it was on, it would stay on (barring gasoline spillage on the tank....). And I opted out of doing any design work this time - partly because this is my first shot at painting, and partly because I have no desire to play the tuba.

The clearcoat I'm using is PPG's DC3000 - is the orange peel still "normal" for that product?

C

Last edited by Crobins365; 09-27-2007 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Thought I had a different clearcoat product
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2007, 01:18 AM
 
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Orange peel is normal for PPG clear. There is a VERY fine line between orange peel and runs. You are getting orange peel because you didnt spray the clear heavy enough to flow out (smooth). Most people live with a little orange peel as it looks better than a run. You can try to spray your clear on heavier but just remember that you are risking a run.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2007, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbuehlz View Post
Orange peel is normal for PPG clear. There is a VERY fine line between orange peel and runs. You are getting orange peel because you didnt spray the clear heavy enough to flow out (smooth). Most people live with a little orange peel as it looks better than a run. You can try to spray your clear on heavier but just remember that you are risking a run.
Such a delicate balance, huh? I can handle the peel, especially since I can wet-sand it out. Got three more coats on last night, and it's actually starting to look like it might turn out ok. Hope I didn't just curse that. But it's getting there. Tonight, wet sanding (found some 1000-grit); tomorrow, final clearcoats. We'll see what kind of damage I can do between now and then.
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