Brand new Stalling - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Brand new Stalling

So I finally feel like I did some 'real' work on the bike this weekend.

Oil change and rebuilt the ACCT . . . my god did it feel like a better ride. Sounded better and all.

Only, after 30 minutes of highway riding, I meet a friend to do some parking lot loops with her (her on a vespa, me on the 750). She's just learning to ride, so on the backroads to get to the parking lot it's slow riding and full stops . . . and me stalling rather often.

Now, I haven't had this problem before unless i was in some real heavy stop-and-go -- which wasn't the case here. Since then, i'm scared of a stall at just about every red light. Ideas?

No i haven't moved the r/r yet, which is likely to happen the next free sunday i have. Though i'm not convinced it's electical, felt more like gas putt-putting and a choke on delivery more than the bike just giving out (i could consistently turn it right back over).

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'86 vn750 since 7 May '07
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 01:09 PM
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You may have a little too much free play in your throttle, so that you're twisting on the throttle, it's moving, but it's not actually affecting the carbs. Maybe cinch that down a little bit and see if it's any better.

Also, in the kind of heat we've been having around here, if you're in stopforalongtime-and-go traffic, you might just want to turn off the bike while you're waiting at lights. Especially if you're having no difficulties on the re-start: save your gas, save your r/r and stator.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 01:25 PM
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It may be just you getting use to the bike. You do shift all the way down to first for a stop don't you?
At slower speeds mine doesn't like going down into first unless I'm going at least 10-15 mph. If I don't hot first in that range she wants to wait til I stop before sliding into first.

I use to have that problem before when I stopped, thought I was in first and had only got to second. Now to be sure I flip up to see the neutral light come on then flip back down to first to get ready for my take-off.
Safety rule says you should be in gear at a stop just in case you need to find an escape route fast (car coming up behind you that doesn't plan on stopping etc..)

Also check your idle rpms. They should be set at about 1000-1100 give or take 50 rpms. It's the black knob of the left by the carbs.

Dianna
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365 View Post
You may have a little too much free play in your throttle, so that you're twisting on the throttle, it's moving, but it's not actually affecting the carbs. Maybe cinch that down a little bit and see if it's any better.
The throttle is behaving fine, actually feels better recently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365 View Post
Also, in the kind of heat we've been having around here, if you're in stopforalongtime-and-go traffic, you might just want to turn off the bike while you're waiting at lights. Especially if you're having no difficulties on the re-start: save your gas, save your r/r and stator.
I definitely had issue with that when i was caught on 295 a month or two back (posted about that as well), but this was idle 'around town' traffic. Full stop at a stop sign would cause the bike to cut out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna
It may be just you getting use to the bike. You do shift all the way down to first for a stop don't you?
Yup. Shift all the way down as I approach a stop sign. Pretty close to the last thing i do before i put my left foot down, but the two actions are one in my mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna
Also check your idle rpms. They should be set at about 1000-1100 give or take 50 rpms. It's the black knob of the left by the carbs.
I'm aware I still have to play with this, after i marbled i was still getting some popping. Only issue is, my tach is beyond jumpy. The connectors in the light housing should be fine as the temperature gauge reacts well. I think it's the tach itself that's bad.


Still, to clarify. It was stalling as i was stopping. Like, getting ready to put feet on pavement, clutch in, no more throttle, right foot on brake, left foot just off shifter, roll-roll-roll, putt-putt-putt, die. It's been seafoamed monthly since i got it (so 2 doses so far). Local stop signs were doing it in.

I'm going to (when i get a chance) retest the battery (it's maintenance free, but it came with the bike so i don't know how good it is currently). And yeah, definitely need to play with the idle screws a bit. But for the past two months this hasn't been happening, but sunday, it was almost every stop sign/light/etc i'd get a stall.

Still, more than happy to accept operator error. Didn't happen this morning (well it did, but i attribute that to playing with the choke), we'll see how the rest of the week goes.

http://www.scurvysvarog.com/vn750/
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svarog View Post

I'm going to (when i get a chance) retest the battery (it's maintenance free, but it came with the bike so i don't know how good it is currently). And yeah, definitely need to play with the idle screws a bit. But for the past two months this hasn't been happening, but sunday, it was almost every stop sign/light/etc i'd get a stall.

Just to be sure....
Not the idle screws on the carbs, but the idle adjust knob. (there's only one)
Like Dianna said, the black knob on the left side of the carbs.
In this pic of Dianna's, it's the knob to the right of the upper arrow.


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 02:32 PM
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Sorry, I got it now - as you were rolling to a stop, the bike would just cut out. Kerplooey, as if the carbs were no longer getting gas.

Well, a jumpy tach is often a sign of carbs needing to be synchronized. Vacuum hoses are all on tight?

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-07-2007, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna View Post
Also check your idle rpms. They should be set at about 1000-1100 give or take 50 rpms. It's the black knob of the left by the carbs.
This seemed to help.

Not having a proper working tach, i just adjusted by sound and have something that's more stable now. Though, i feel like i have too small of a sample set to really say that yet.

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