shift lever movement - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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shift lever movement

My 1993 750 Shift lever has about 1 1/2 " movement in and out allowing a small amount of oil to leak from case from seal. Should there be that much play in the shift lever. Thanks, Chrispy

Last edited by chrispy493; 10-16-2013 at 02:57 AM. Reason: left olut inches on thread
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by chrispy493 View Post
My 1993 750 Shift lever has about 1 1/2 " movement in and out allowing a small amount of oil to leak from case from seal. Should there be that much play in the shift lever. Thanks, Chrispy
The In/Out play is a missing Cir-Clip...must pull engine & then side cover to replace.
I utilized a piece of fuel hose 1 1/2" long, split lengthwise, placing over the external horiz. shaft. Worked fine 4000 miles till engine pull/case split.

The oil leak is the shaft seal...requires the same labor as written to replace.

hope this helps

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 08:13 AM
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^what he said.

What I would do I'd pull the lever all the way out, measure the distance between the case and the back of the lever. Remove the lever, put some kind of solid spacer on the shaft cut to that measurement, and replace the lever (be sure to mark it's position on the shaft so you put it back the same way.

A stack of washers, a piece of some kind of tubing or a combination of the two are suitable spacers.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 09:43 PM
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Yes, the Vulcan has a poorly designed shift mechanism. Dropping the bike on the shifter is often enough to do considerable damage, and you have to split the cases to repair it. I have dropped a lot of dirt bikes, hard enough to turn the shifter into a pretzel, and never did any internal damage. At least yours is only the shaft. Often the shift forks get bent, and the bike won't shift at all.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 09:50 PM
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The factory spotweld inside the cases on the shaft also is prone to breaking, And that is just from shifting after 20,000+ miles
Stiill have to crack the cases...sucks with parts and gaskets so expensive and it breaking down all the time it is enough to make an old man spit LOL

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
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The factory spotweld inside the cases on the shaft also is prone to breaking, And that is just from shifting after 20,000+ miles
Stiill have to crack the cases...sucks with parts and gaskets so expensive and it breaking down all the time it is enough to make an old man spit LOL
Mine still works fine after 84,000 miles, but if that ever happens, that's the end of the bike. No way am I going to split the cases on a bike with that many miles on it. Time to get that Honda Shadow Spirit 1100 I've been wanting for so long.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagesdesign View Post
Well there's no need to crack the trans to work on the tower. pop the car in neutral and it'll lift straight out. You also don't need to crack the trans to do a fluid change.
you said it shifts smooth when you disconnect the end links. what shifts smooth, you mean the the tower arms, or the shift box moves through the gates smoothly.
Inspect the shift cables, there's a chance they've gotten burned or kinked and are catching. Also inspect the bracket that the cables pass through (bolted to the trans case above the diff)
What? SPAM?

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 07:36 PM
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had the same half an inch play and used williamtech suggestion using a half inch garden hose, works fine still. Mind you there was no oil leak.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 09:32 PM
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had the same half an inch play and used williamtech suggestion using a half inch garden hose, works fine still. Mind you there was no oil leak.
Thank you....
Works fine w/o splitting the case's to repair a minor issue. (many thousand miles).



'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 03:44 PM
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"had the same half an inch play and used williamtech suggestion using a half inch garden hose, works fine still. Mind you there was no oil leak. "


so you could say your shifter was hosed...right?
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