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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Update

Ok. So I've gotten the wheels off and the coolant changed! Go me. Woo. New tires will be on hopefully for wednesday. Front brakes look kinda crappy might get new ones. Battery needs to be charged so I can get the bike started to change the oil. Splines are greased and very happy. Do I need the rear wheel to change the gear oil? Oh...and Jon how do you actually test the coils to see if they are working properly?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 06:31 PM
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sounds you almost done, nice.
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Originally Posted by MikeyMike View Post
Do I need the rear wheel to change the gear oil?
yes, once in a while you do neet to change it. i'd do it at his point just to open a clean page. it is really easy and can be done in couple minutes. don't overtighten the plugs though, IMO it is easy to strip them

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 08:27 PM
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Using a good dmm in the resistance mode, dc resistance between the two primary terminals should be between 1 - 2.2 ohms. I said good meter as this is a very low resistance and poor meters can't read this low accurately. Good meters have a way to zero the test leads out of the test also.

The resistance between the spark plug leads should be between 19 - 22kohms (19,000 - 22,000 ohms).

Both of these tests are only so good as under very high voltage (normal use), there can be breakdown between windings that will not show up using dc meter.

However, if your dc meter readings are way off of these values, you do have a coil problem.

Jon

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Jon. You're a good man. I definitely appreciate it. I'll have to check them up either tomorrow or the day after. Might have a local wrench do it for me as I don't have the equipment....I'm going to be needing some ear shave advice within the next month....just to give you the heads up. lol. Thanks again!
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