Had to ask for help with Orleans - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2007, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Had to ask for help with Orleans

So, the replacement of the wheel bearings - last night's "quick job" - turned out to be very un-zenlike. As you can see from the attached thumbnails, the hub wasn't looking too swift when I started. Got the circlips out, and then tried to use a drift, per Clymer's, to "gently tap out the races" for the bearings. Not budging. Tapped harder. Still didn't budge. Swore a little. Nothing. Swore a lot. Hurt my throat. Went to my local auto mechanic this a.m. to get a couple of drifts to try - nada. Finally had to take the wheel back to him, and with a whole lot of effort and after a couple of bloodied knuckles, he was able to release the bearing races with a "blind bearing puller." Doggonit...

C

Last edited by Crobins365; 08-29-2007 at 09:31 AM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2007, 12:57 PM
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Just when we were about to call ya super(wo)man....

I have no doubt that I'm going to have to do the same (curse a lot then pay someone to do it) when I finally get around to my wheel bearings.

Curtis - Albany Oregon.
Currently receiving therapy from "Doc" - My 1985 VN700.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2007, 04:43 PM
 
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Cindy,

LOL thats why i had a guy do it for me cost 30.00 and it was do worth it lol. Glad the berring are going to work out for ya!


THey go in so much easyer that is if you have the correct tool. Not the one i used.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2007, 05:09 PM
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We all need a little help now & then. But, on the good side, ya got the bearings out! That's all that matters.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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And for the re-install instructions??

I was just surfing through the wheel/brakes/etc. posts and came across this one from last year:

Quote:
Originally Posted by RepairmanSki View Post
I pulled my wheels the other day to replace the tires and noted that one bearing on the front had a definite "click" when manually rotated. There's a great bearing supply place near me so I ran down at lunch and picked up a pair of double sealed units for < $15.

Digging into Clymer's for replacement instructions takes you to pg 360 (for me). The relevant, erroneous, instructions read:

"8. To remove the right- and left-hand bearings and distance collar, insert a soft aluminum or brass drift into one side of the hub.

9. Push the distance collar over to one side and place the drift on the inner race of the lower bearing.

10. Tap the bearing out of the hub...."

Of significant note is Figure 21. From the description and figure it would seem that the distance collar could be moved aside from either end and either bearing driven out. This, however is NOT the case.

The inaccuracy with manual stems from the construction of the wheel itself. The distance collar has a shouldered section inside the hub into which it, presumably, rests to affect the pinching of the bearing but also as a means to locate it coaxially with the bearings themselves.

In my situation I had a fair amount of rust around the outer race of the bearings where they contacted the hub. Having never before made this repair I was unfamiliar with how far the distance collar would dislocate to pound out the opposite bearing. For a fair period of time I thought I had moved it as far as possible and was currently pounding on the inner race of the bearing when in actuality I was pounding the shoulder for the collar; the wheel itself!

The correct repair would involve working with the wheel flat on its side, rotational direction going clockwise, on a padded surface. More explicitly, speedometer mount down. In this configuration the distance collar was easily displaced, the bearing removed (follwed by the collar), then plenty of operating room was available to avoid the internal shoulder and drive out the remaining bearing.

Fortunately I did not damage the internals of the hub, but who knows what a solid hit on the inner shoulder could have done to my wheel. Having a 50% chance of guessing right based on the manual's inaccuracy was frustrating which is why I hope anyone in a similar situation finds this first.


*In case it is pertinent, my 750 is a '95. I suppose it is possible the wheel construction changed somewhere in the product's development.

Aha!!! This makes a little more sense as to why I was having so much trouble with the bearings. Not complete sense, but a little more. That said, now I can't get the _*#@ things back in, and am wondering if someone has any helpful hints? Clymer's casually says, "Pick up a socket about the size of the bearings and tap the race back into the hub." Well, I don't have a 42mm socket. Sears doesn't sell a 42 mm socket. The closest I could find was a 1 7/16ths trailer something-or-other that looked close to 42mm, but was running about $25. So now I'm looking for a pipe that might work.

Can bearing removal and installation possibly be this difficult?? Heavens to Betsy, this should be a no-brainer...

C
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 03:07 PM
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The bearings can be tricky to get in. Even if you just used a piece of wood to get them most of the way in, then (with a soft faced hammer) gently knock them in until they seat, you should be fine.

The trick is to try to keep them parallel with the opening as you tap them in.
Be sure there are no burrs at the top of the opening too.

One thing that might work, if you have a large enough C-clamp (and a second set of hands would help), would be to put the bearings in place, hold the two pieces of wood over them, then work the C-clamp to push them into place (taking care to be sure they go in straight).

And ... DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE SPACER IN BEFORE PUTTING THE BEARINGS IN.
(been there, done that )


Oh, ya might be able to rent/borrow a large enough socket from a parts store. Some of them still do that.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin View Post
The bearings can be tricky to get in. Even if you just used a piece of wood to get them most of the way in, then (with a soft faced hammer) gently knock them in until they seat, you should be fine.

The trick is to try to keep them parallel with the opening as you tap them in.
Be sure there are no burrs at the top of the opening too.

One thing that might work, if you have a large enough C-clamp (and a second set of hands would help), would be to put the bearings in place, hold the two pieces of wood over them, then work the C-clamp to push them into place (taking care to be sure they go in straight).

And ... DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE SPACER IN BEFORE PUTTING THE BEARINGS IN.
(been there, done that )


Oh, ya might be able to rent/borrow a large enough socket from a parts store. Some of them still do that.
THe "spacer" or the "distance collar"? THere's that spacer on the right side of the axle - I'm sure hoping that's not it. A buddy of mine came over and we tap-tap-tapped until the second bearings went in...too far. Now nothin's moving. So for my next trick, I'm gonna see if i can create some little tool to slide under the race and tap-tap-tap it back up about 1mm.

Or maybe, just maybe, I'll not doing anything more this weekend. I've got what seems to be the anti-Midas touch happenin'!

C
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365 View Post
The "spacer" or the "distance collar"?
Yeah, the distance collar, that's what I'm typing about.

One thing that could work for moving things just a little, would be to find an ancor bolt something like THIS, that fit's into the collar. Put it part way in, tighten it, tap it till things move just enough, loosen it, remove it, good to go.
Sounds like it'd work atleast.

On my dirtbike, the distance collar only goes into the hub from one side.
Is it the same on the Vulcan?


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

Author Unknown

Last edited by hyperbuzzin; 04-01-2007 at 08:23 PM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin View Post
Yeah, the distance collar, that's what I'm typing about.

One thing that could work for moving things just a little, would be to find an ancor bolt something like THIS, that fit's into the collar. Put it part way in, tighten it, tap it till things move just enough, loosen it, remove it, good to go.
Sounds like it'd work atleast.

On my dirtbike, the distance collar only goes into the hub from one side.
Is it the same on the Vulcan?
Whew! 'Cause if the spacer was s'posed to go in there, too, as my neighbor would say, "It ain't a-goin'." Seems like the collar was okay from either side, but I may be wrong about that,especially given the post I found about the ledge on the non-speedo side. Shoot. Well, since I have to take it apart again, I will check for ya!

AWESOME idea about the bolt, thank you. The best I could come up with was the bolt on the stem for a road bike (cycle) - there's a long bolt that goes through the top of the stem, and it's connected to a beveled washer-thing. As you tightened the bolt, the washer pulls up into the base of the stem, and then holds the stem fast within the headtube. Tried it, too, but it was too big for the inner retaining ring.

I may just drop the wheel off with my auto mechanic in the a.m. and let him pull that bearing set out about 1-2 mm. But I'll see if I'm feeling more adventurous come the am.

Thanks for your tips, Hyper!!!!

C
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 09:55 PM
 
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Cindy,

I'm not "near" Brunswick but if things ever get too out of hand I could always come up and offer a hand. I may have to pick your brain one day as it seems you are pretty savvy around a VN750. Good luck with the bearing repair.
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