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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-01-2007, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Now I've Done It....

Broke off a bolt on the left-hand reed valve cover; no big deal - went to Sears and got a tap-and-die set to extract the broken bolt. THEN I broke the tap (or die)...while it was embedded in the broken bolt. Which was/is still in the rear cylinder, under the reed valve area. Kinda reminded me of when we were kids, and we'd get a football stuck in the tree. THen we'd try to knock out the football with a basketball, and that'd get stuck. So we'd try some other toy...and pretty soon we had an awful lot of balls and things lodged in the tree.


Anybody got any suggestions (other than parting Orleans out)?

C
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-01-2007, 08:16 PM
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Use a small puntch and break out or chisel out the tap. Only way I know how to remove a broken tap. If you have to use a helicoil to fix the threads.

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-01-2007, 09:08 PM
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Get yourself a carbide drill bit, make that 2. One small starter bit, then the other about 2/3 the size of the broken bolt.

Drill as far as the broken stud goes with the small bit, chase that with the larger bit.

Get a larger easyout and try and back out that broken stud. Perhaps with the thin wall thickness (as you drilled a lot of the material out), you may just get it to either come out, or break up and come out in pieces.

Be carefull with the carbide, it will cut through anything.

You can find just cylinder jugs on ebay every so often if if goes bad.

Call if you need help.

Jon

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-02-2007, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, will give it a try. The bits from Sears were for hooey (I found a thread in the Verses last night (after The Unfortunate Incident) and that seemed to be the consensus ("hooey").

On top of that, got 2/3 through filling the radiator last night and she sprung a leak - I'm thinking the seller had kept the fluid level low, 'cause there was no sign of a problem when I bought it. Ay yi yi - one thing leads to another...

C
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-02-2007, 10:58 AM
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Ive never had much luck with those easy outs either,The only way ive gotten the job is like 93vn750 said. drilling a larger hole and breaking pieces out with
small screw driver,very frustrating,good luck.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not having much luck getting anything drilled out of anywhere, but I'm hesitant (at this point) to go replacing the rear cylinder head when the bike may continue to run like, um, well, badly for awhile. Given that I'm looking at trying to reaffix the reed valve and cover, is it possible to weld the cover onto the head and just be done with it? The weld would impede my ability to coaster the bike, which I can't do anyway with that thread blocked with a broken bolt and bit. And if I need to reduce decel popping, I can adjust my air/fuel mix screws or marble the hoses (on my 1992, I just adjusted the screw, and the popping is now insignificant).

Does anybody foresee any significant problems (aside from irreversibility) to welding the valve cover onto the cylinder head? And given that I'm thinking of permanently affixing Al to Al....any suggestions about welding or soldering materials?

C
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365 View Post
I'm not having much luck getting anything drilled out of anywhere, but I'm hesitant (at this point) to go replacing the rear cylinder head when the bike may continue to run like, um, well, badly for awhile. Given that I'm looking at trying to reaffix the reed valve and cover, is it possible to weld the cover onto the head and just be done with it? The weld would impede my ability to coaster the bike, which I can't do anyway with that thread blocked with a broken bolt and bit. And if I need to reduce decel popping, I can adjust my air/fuel mix screws or marble the hoses (on my 1992, I just adjusted the screw, and the popping is now insignificant).

Does anybody foresee any significant problems (aside from irreversibility) to welding the valve cover onto the cylinder head? And given that I'm thinking of permanently affixing Al to Al....any suggestions about welding or soldering materials?
Cindy -

Why not drill out both cap screws and re-tap for a smaller machine screw? Doesn't require much holding power.

You could JB Weld it too, with patience and a grinder, is reversible.

Jon

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Iridium's
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Dunlop D-404's
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93VN750 View Post
Cindy -

Why not drill out both cap screws and re-tap for a smaller machine screw? Doesn't require much holding power.

You could JB Weld it too, with patience and a grinder, is reversible.

Jon
If I could get a tap to actually tap, that sounds like it would work. I just can't seem to get in there; which is ironic, given how soft the screw was originally. But JB weld sounds do-able - I have a grinder; and I'm sure I put my patience down somewhere around my tool cabinet last night....

C
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-11-2007, 01:18 PM
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Did you ever get the broken easy out out?? If not, that's why you can't drill into to the broken stud. Unless you have a high quality carbide or tungsten (not tungsten coated) drill bit, you just end up rounding the bits cutting edges.
You may consider taking the cylinder head to a machine shop and seeing if they can remove the offending stud/easy out for a reasonable price. I broke one of the studs off on my front exhaust manifold and then broke off the tap I was using to retap the hole after drilling the stud out. A muffler shop removed the tap/stud and retapped the hole for $25. It was cheaper than a new manifold and I didn't have to fool with welding or any more "creative" solutions. Just a thought.;

Jim W
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Moved R/R 08Sep06
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-11-2007, 10:08 PM
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Don't try the weld bit it is basically irreversable. Patience and a good carbide bit will work. If you really want to be safe take it to the machine shop and have them fix it. Sometimes the price of a professional is cheaper in the long run. Luck.

Rckmtn
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