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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy Bike repaired but still got problems

OK, after several months with the bike off road I decided to get someone else to do the repairs. It cost me a fortune (mostly labour) but I just didn't have the time or expertise to do it myself. But it is still not right.

I thought I'd see if anyone can help me pin down the problems before I go shout at the mechanic...

The first problem occurred at around 50mph. I was happily tootling along when there was a sudden loss of power. Not a total loss - the bike was still moving but it was very gradually slowing down. When I opened the throttle there was no acceleration, the engine roared as you would expect but there was no push.

Yesterday, I had to travel from one office to another. The bike started ok and the journey took around 45 minutes but again the power loss happened this time at 70mph on the motorway. I made it to my destination but then second problem occurred. When I left the office after popping in for just 2 minutes. The bike wouldn't crank. It sounded like the battery was partially flat. At first it tried to crank but after a few tries all I got was the click of the solenoid. I rolled it down a hill and got it started and managed to get home.

When I got home I took the battery out and tested it. It showed 12.4V! If it had been dead, it couldn't have fully charged in the 1/2 hour it took to get home, right?

A little more info that might be relevant. As part of the work necessary to get the bike back on the road I have had new exhausts fitted (V&H Cruzers) and a new battery (a Yuasa YTZ14S).

I had wondered if the CCA on the new battery was a bit poor but when I looked at the Yuasa site it says 230 (which is 20 more than the YTX14AHL-BS recommeded by this site) which should be more than enough.

I am wondering if the loss of power is somehow connected to the starting problem.

Any ideas folks?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 08:36 AM
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The loss of power at the higher RPMs may be the hose in the right ear (if you still have the ears)
Make sure the hose is properly seated in the cover and not bottoming out. Cut the tip at a 45 degree angle to make sure.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks, I have noticed a loose hose in that vicinity. Is it a smallish hose - less than 1/2 inch diameter? How does it connect to the air filter? What is the other end attached to?
Thanks.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 02:42 PM
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The cranking problems are somehow related to the electrical system. It may be that the battery is a wet cell, or it could be that the ground from the battery to the engine is corroded. Check the ground first, - it's the cheapest. As to the engine stall, I'm not sure what it connects to on the other end, but it just sits in a hole in the ear. This has caused a lot of members to scratch their heads wondering why the bike stalls above 50. Do make sure you cut it at a 45 before stuffing it back in the ear.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 03:10 PM
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not what u wanna hear.... but that happened to me with my stator.....run through and do a full stator and R/R trouble shoot check with a voltmeter.... i hope its just something like a bad ignition, cause that is much easier and cheaper to replace....

on a side note to check the battery, have it load tested at any autoparts place....most do it free of charge.

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scot_vulcan
When I opened the throttle there was no acceleration, the engine roared as you would expect but there was no push.
That part bugs me. Engine roared as in revved good, but no power? Usually from what I've read when the bike stalls out at higher speed there is no revving, usually caused by wind pushing against the hose in question causing it to bottom out or something. Then not wanting to start? I'm wondering if these two things are related or not? Starting sounds like an electrical problem, but the lack of power with engine revving sounds more like clutch slippage??? Just airing some thoughts, not suggestions! Wondering if the clutch is mis-adjusted???

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy
Engine roared as in revved good, but no power?
I know it sounds wierd but that is exactly what happens. Its not a stall, the engine is still running but not putting the power down. The lack of power is only at the top end, if I stop I can pull away again no problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy
Starting sounds like an electrical problem, but the lack of power with engine revving sounds more like clutch slippage???
Hmm. I had considered this myself but the plates are new in last year so I had discounted it as the problem. But one of the things I asked the mechanic to do was replace the clutch cable. I will check this out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cegodsey
It may be that the battery is a wet cell
I am not sure what you mean here, do you mean water in the battery or something else? I had asked the mechanic to put in a sealed gel battery and he selected a Yuasa YTZ14S. The Yuasa site isn't clear exactly what type of battery it is but it says 'valve regulated' on the battery. To fit it in the battery box though he has re-routed the wires and dropped it in on its side. he said it should work fine.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 07:01 PM
 
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I read this post earlier but got distracted when the phone rang (or wind blew its easy lol)
Fergy I totally agree with you about possible clutch slippage, not sure if anything to do with the electrical system would cause anything like that. the drive train is where to start looking
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 08:01 PM
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If the battery is on it's side, then it's definitely an MF. You would know by the acid not leaking all over your bike!

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 11:59 PM
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Not that side, ding dong! Maybe I'm rubbing off on you as well...

If there is a vent hose on the battery, then more than likely it is a "wet" battery - you have to add water when it gets low. The numbers don't sound like a gel cell / sealed type of battery. I can tell you a good number for a Yuasa MF battery is YTX14AHL-BS.

As to the stalling problem, what kind of oil are you using? The only reason I bring this up is that we've had quite a few discussions about Energy Conserving additives, and I wonder if this might be a side effect of high rotational speeds. Is it at 70mph, specifically, or is it at 5000 rpms, in any gear?

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