With all due respect to those already afflicted, this thread is yet another sobering reminder of the woes that await those who do not take the time and effort to do a bit of "preventive maintenance" by properly prepping their bike(s) for winter (or other long-term) storage....
Improper bike prep for extended periods of non-use is....I think....a major source of trouble that is behind the majority of "help" threads on this forum. It of course also creates major headaches later for subsequent bike owners of these neglected bikes.
A few suggestions, prior to putting the bike away:
1) Add the appropriate amount of Seafoam (or other fuel stabilizer/conditioner) to the fuel tank, and run the bike until this mixture and stabilizer gets up into the carbs
. Or--drain the tank and carbs completely--see other forum threads (below) here for how to do this. If you store the bike with fuel and stabilizer in the tank, make sure the tank is FULL
--to prevent rust/corrosion from starting/forming inside the tank. In fact, putting the bike away with a full tank is a good idea if it is to sit for any real length of time (like even just for a few days), in all but the dryest climates.
To get around the problem/hassle of draining the tank, and also....fuel evaporating from the carbs over time, I just start and idle the bike for about a minute or so once a week, and work the throttle a few times to let the jets see some fresh fuel. This also keeps the inside of the engine from going "dry" of oil in places.
2) Connect the bike's battery up to a "smart" battery charger/tender. Make sure the charger/tender you use has the CORRECT CHARGING CAPACITY FOR YOUR BIKE'S BATTERY (i.e., 1.5 amps, or less). Keep the battery connected to the charger/tender, unless you start the bike up, or otherwise use the battery. This avoids that dreaded "click" (with nothing else) you hear when you first try to start up your bike in the spring. This info holds true either for wet-cell or AGM type batteries.
3) If you haven't already done so, be sure to swap out your bike's old-fashioned, wet-cell battery with a more modern, no-mess, maintenance-free, sealed AGM battery (many forum threads are here to offer suggestions on which AGM battery may be the best at the time). This type battery solves A LOT
of charging and starting issues with this bike, and elinimates the hassle of removing the bike's seat to check fluid levels--as well as the possibility of getting battery acid on your bike's frame. Besides, these AGM batteries hold a charge much longer and better, and (thus) provide much better "cranking power" at start-up time.
These storage ideas and techniques (and other suggestions appropriate to that same time) are discussed in more detail in the following relevant earlier threads:
Hope all this helps save other VN750 owners some major hassle