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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
I don't have any of those so called "safety switches" either. Not only are they unnecessary complication, but they tend to fail, usually at the worst possible place/time. Learn to ride right, and you won't need them. If you choose to keep them, learn how to diagnose and bypass them when they do fail, so you won't be stranded. I always start my bike in gear before taking off on it, except for the first start of the day, when I start it in neutral on the centerstand, let it warm up, shut it off, push it off the stand, get on, put it in first, pull in the clutch, start it, let out the clutch and go. Sounds like a lot, but it is really just one smooth continuous movement. It is not good to put a bike in gear while it is stopped with the engine running. Unlike a car clutch, a motorcycle clutch will always have some fluid friction, which is what causes that "clunk" when you shift into gear with the bike not moving.
If pushing the start button will not trip the relay and turn the starter, but you can get the starter to turn by jumpering the two terminals on the relay, you are either not getting voltage to the relay from the starter button, or the relay is bad. If you are getting voltage to the starter, and it spins but does not turn the engine, the problem is with the starter. With the plugs removed, there will be no compression, the engine will turn freely. But you can hear it turn over, it's a completely different sound from just the starter motor itself spinning. The relay (not solenoid, the Vulcan starter does not have a solenoid) only sends current to the starter. It has nothing to do with whether the starter works right or not.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike