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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
The splines are the first thing that come to mind, and it is a serious issue. I bought my 2002 brand new, rode it 10 miles home, and immediately pulled the final drive apart. Not a spec of lube anywhere. Had I waited until the maintenance schedule said to do it, there would likely have already been serious damage. New parts to fix destroyed splines can cost thousands of $$$. You need to lube the engine output shaft, U joint (under the rubber boot by the swingarm) the rear spline on the drive shaft, the front spline on the final drive gearcase, and the splines on the final drive and the rear wheel where the two engage. This will be a fairly time consuming job the first tome you do it,, bur it gets a lot easier later. I do mine every 10,000 miles. You will need to remove the rear wheel and the final drive gearcase to get to the rear splines.
Check the tank for rust. Even if it had gas in it, it may still have rusted. And if it had gas in it, it will still need a good cleaning. There is no reason you can't use the battery you have until it wears out, just keep an eye on the water level, and make sure the vent hose is routed so battery acid does not get on the frame. Low water level can not only result in a destroyed battery, But I believe it can also damage the stator, which requires the engine to be removed too get to.
As for the tires, I would do as I do with all tires, and judge them by their condition instead of age. A lot of their condition will depend on where the bike was stored, and if it sat on flat tires. If it was stored in the sun, and sat on flat tires for a long time, then you definitely need new tires. But on the other hand, I have a '73 Ford Pinto, with the original belted Goodyear Polyglas spare, and last year I used that spare for 2 months and over 1000 miles. Still looks brand new, because it was stored in complete darkness on it's side. (plus I think they made better tires back in those days)
I would wait until the next oil change to check the filter screen, but I would do that oil change in 200-300 miles. You are after all dealing with what amounts to a brand new bike that is not broken in yet. And condensation may have formed in the crankcase while it was stored.
I would change the coolant and flush the cooling system with DISTILLED water now.
I would change the rear final drive oil when you do the splines YESTERDAY
I would change the brake fluid, but I would not use anything other than clean brake fluid to flush the system with.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 01-22-2012 at 06:42 PM.