Maintenance on a Used(2005)/New(250 mi) Bike - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Maintenance on a Used(2005)/New(250 mi) Bike

I need technical advice on my new/used 2005 vn750 with 250 miles. The bike was bought new, drove 247 miles, sat till this year when I purchased it. It initially ran rough to which I had planned on a jet clean/carburetor rebuild project but got lucky after a tune up. 1st Tune Up: I initially changed the oil (castrol 10/40) & plugs with standard stuff and replaced the battery with a standard maintenance battery. Then put in some carb cleaner & fresh gas and it seems to be running fine. However after reading the Vulcan Verses & other stuff on the forum I realize I should have invested in a (Yuasa or WestCo sealed) maintenance free battery & iridium plugs. Iím planning on leaving things as is for now but have some questions.

Please keep in mind the bike is basically new with only 250 miles on it when replying.

Is there any reason I canít run my new battery for a while and what benefit would there be in replacing it now?

Should I clean the oil screen? I forgot to clean the oil screen on the oil change.

Should I Flush the Front brakes with isopropyl alcohol and then refill with good DOT4 from a new jug. Per Vulcan Verses?

Should I change the oil in the rear diff or just check the level & wait till the next oil change?

Should I flush & replace the coolant?

Need help with good threads to read about:
-Relocating your electronics from under the bike for better air flow and thus cooling
-Relocating your regulator/rectifier to a cooler spot
-Other suggested maintenance modifications

Firestop Pete

2005 VN750 (250 original miles)
My first bike & no license yet
Rider Safety Scheduled for March
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 05:53 PM
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not sure what year the splines were improperly lubed but it wouildnt hurt to do it to be sure. and the tires are prob original and might be starting to rot or have a flat spot from sitting that long and I would change them.

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 06:35 PM
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The splines are the first thing that come to mind, and it is a serious issue. I bought my 2002 brand new, rode it 10 miles home, and immediately pulled the final drive apart. Not a spec of lube anywhere. Had I waited until the maintenance schedule said to do it, there would likely have already been serious damage. New parts to fix destroyed splines can cost thousands of $$$. You need to lube the engine output shaft, U joint (under the rubber boot by the swingarm) the rear spline on the drive shaft, the front spline on the final drive gearcase, and the splines on the final drive and the rear wheel where the two engage. This will be a fairly time consuming job the first tome you do it,, bur it gets a lot easier later. I do mine every 10,000 miles. You will need to remove the rear wheel and the final drive gearcase to get to the rear splines.

Check the tank for rust. Even if it had gas in it, it may still have rusted. And if it had gas in it, it will still need a good cleaning. There is no reason you can't use the battery you have until it wears out, just keep an eye on the water level, and make sure the vent hose is routed so battery acid does not get on the frame. Low water level can not only result in a destroyed battery, But I believe it can also damage the stator, which requires the engine to be removed too get to.

As for the tires, I would do as I do with all tires, and judge them by their condition instead of age. A lot of their condition will depend on where the bike was stored, and if it sat on flat tires. If it was stored in the sun, and sat on flat tires for a long time, then you definitely need new tires. But on the other hand, I have a '73 Ford Pinto, with the original belted Goodyear Polyglas spare, and last year I used that spare for 2 months and over 1000 miles. Still looks brand new, because it was stored in complete darkness on it's side. (plus I think they made better tires back in those days)

I would wait until the next oil change to check the filter screen, but I would do that oil change in 200-300 miles. You are after all dealing with what amounts to a brand new bike that is not broken in yet. And condensation may have formed in the crankcase while it was stored.

I would change the coolant and flush the cooling system with DISTILLED water now.

I would change the rear final drive oil when you do the splines YESTERDAY

I would change the brake fluid, but I would not use anything other than clean brake fluid to flush the system with.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 01-22-2012 at 06:42 PM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 11:02 PM
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Agree with the above but I also would judge the tires by look not age. Put a good dose of Seafoam in the tank because you don't know how long it was standing with old gas. Seafoam is a great product and many of us here use it freely. If you do a search on the site you will see a number of threads about Seafoam.

Ride safe, don't scratch the new helmet :-)

2003 Wine/Gray VN750 bought in 2005 w/2000 Miles
LED Tail/Brakelight & License Plate Light;Chrome Inspection Sticker Plate ;Battery Charging Quick Plug;Kuryakyn LED Battery Voltmeter;Throttle Rocker Palm Rest;Optronics Driving Lamps;KnifeMaker Floor Boards;Halogen Headlamp Bulb;OEM Engine Guard;Iridium Spark Plugs;OEM Luggage rack;Stebel Air Horn;Handlebar Clock; Handlebar Thermometer; Sealed Battery; Marbled; Leather Grip Covers; Rectangular Mirrors

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 08:33 AM
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Well, the dry spline thing was known about back when I bought my '93 new, but unfortunately I did not find out about it until some time later. I wound up with some spline damage when I took it apart to do the job at the mileage the service manual called for. I lubed mine the first time with moly wheel bearing grease because I didn't know about the moly paste. With a lot of spline maintenance after that, it made it past 80,000 miles before I traded it.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
Well, the dry spline thing was known about back when I bought my '93 new, but unfortunately I did not find out about it until some time later. I wound up with some spline damage when I took it apart to do the job at the mileage the service manual called for. I lubed mine the first time with moly wheel bearing grease because I didn't know about the moly paste. With a lot of spline maintenance after that, it made it past 80,000 miles before I traded it.
I deleted my post for fear that new owners wouldn't check the splines. For sure it should be done.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 02:59 PM
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Don't put anything in the brake system except the appropriate grade of fluid. Isopropyl achohol contains about 30% water, and you do not want any water whatsoever in your bake system.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly2001 View Post
Don't put anything in the brake system except the appropriate grade of fluid. Isopropyl achohol contains about 30% water, and you do not want any water whatsoever in your bake system.
Kelly-Thanks for the note on water in the alcahol. Unfortunately the "Vulcan Verses" recommend the alcahol. Hopefully the right people will see this and make a change if needed!

Firestop Pete

2005 VN750 (250 original miles)
My first bike & no license yet
Rider Safety Scheduled for March
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly2001 View Post
Don't put anything in the brake system except the appropriate grade of fluid. Isopropyl achohol contains about 30% water, and you do not want any water whatsoever in your bake system.
Kelly-Thanks for the note on water in the alcahol. Unfortunately the "Vulcan Verses" recommend the alcahol. Hopefully the right people will see this and make a change if needed!

Firestop Pete

2005 VN750 (250 original miles)
My first bike & no license yet
Rider Safety Scheduled for March
2up is offline  
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