Winterize ?'s - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Winterize ?'s

I've heard folks recommend putting engine oil or fogging in the spark plug holes. I copied the following from one site. Two questions.....

1) Is the top gear, fifth gear?
2) How many of ya do this?

Turn the bike off and remove the spark plugs. Then, using a turkey baster, suck up 25cc's (actually found another site that said 5cc's) of engine oil and squirt the oil into each plug hole. Turn the engine over by hand (put it in top gear and turn the rear wheel) with the plugs still out to coat the cylinder walls, piston rings and valve seats. Then replace the plugs and drain the existing crankcase oil.


1986 VN 750
20,000 miles
MF Battery
Replaced Stock Turn signals
Starter Clutch
NGK plugs
MT66 Pirelli's
Seafoam
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 03:31 AM
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I have stored bikes long term before, and have pretty much perfected a system that works. This is if you do not plan on starting the bike until you take it out of storage. First, it needs to be stored indoors. Outdoor storage will destroy a bike.

I warm up the engine, and change the oil and filter. I then drain and remove the tank, make sure you get all the gas out, then pour in about a qt. of WD-40 (I buy it by the gallon), shake the tank good to completely coat the inside, then drain out the excess. You can still use it as WD-40. While the tank is off, drain the carbs, fill with WD-40 through the fuel line, then drain that out. Tighten the drain screws, put the tank back on, and hook up the fuel line. Remove all the spark plugs, and using a transmission funnel, spray some fogging oil into the cylinders. With the bike in gear and on the centerstand (for the VN750) turn the rear wheel, which will turn the engine over pretty easy if the plugs are out. Put the plugs back in finger tight (for the VN750, you actually only need to remove 2, I'd remove the 2 non recessed ones) Air up the tires to the max pressure on the sidewall. Remove the battery, and connect it to a battery tender. Do not leave it in the bike, even MF AGM types can leak acid. Remember, the battery will still be wearing out, you can't make a battery last forever, even if it is kept fully charged. Throw a sheet over the bike.


About once a month, remove the plugs, spray in some more oil, and turn the back wheel just a bit. The idea is to keep the cylinder walls lubricated, and keep the piston rings from sticking in the bore. By using the back wheel to turn the engine over, you are also turning the final drive, clutch, and transmission. Parts that are designed to be moved need to be moved. Keep the tires inflated, move the front tire to a new position to prevent flat spotting the tire. Put the plugs back, step on the rear brake to work the mechanism, squeeze the clutch lever and front brake lever and twist the throttle.

The 2 biggest dangers to bikes that are stored for long periods of time are the pistons sticking in the bore, and oil seals drying out and leaking. Moving parts with oil seals, like the final drive, helps protect them. Working the shifter up and down once a month wouldn't be a bad idea either.


This may sound like a lot, but it really isn't. It takes less than an hour the first time, and about 10 minutes a month. How much is your bike worth? Even my crappiest one is worth more than that.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 09:09 AM
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Aahhmmm, I don't winterize because I can start mine up every now and again... Another reason is, years ago I was told I should winterize my outboard fishing boat although I did use it if the weather got warm, well one winter I did, that was the first time I ever had problems with that 35 hp Evenrude motor, liked to have never got it started or running right, it gave me running problems near all summer... So now I just keep a full tank of gas (non-ethanol) in my cycle (don't have boats anymore) and start it every once and again on a warmer day... But everyone to their own...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
Sportster Owner/Rider since age 72...lol... Rider since Simplex...???
09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 01:10 PM
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There's likely more opinions on how to winterize a bike then there are in an oil thread.


Jerrys suggestions pretty much cover the needed issues, although I have read about instead of draining the gas tank, to fill it up, and pour in 2 cups of two stroke oil. Shake the bike back and forth to mix it up. Start the bike (helps if the bike was warm to begin with) let it run a few minutes until the pipes are blowing smoke pretty good.

Read the same proceedure above but you turn the gas off and just let the bike run till it dies from lack of fuel.

Another variation is to turn the fuel off and fill the carbs with SeaFoam.

Another version you leave the spark plug wires off the plugs and hit the starter button once every 3 weeks to turn the motor over.

Other tips include blocking/covering the air box inlets and exhaust pipes to keep little critters out. (mice seem to love airfilter boxes) placing open cans of mothballs under the bike (that's covered with a sheet) is supposed to work too.

I have never done any of these things as the only thing I do is cover the bike and check the battery charge each month....as I find days to ride even in the winter. Longest stretch without riding was 30 days.

Many folks just go out to the garage and start the bike and let it run a few minutes every few weeks. You still need to monitor/charge the battery and dumping a can of SeaFoam in the tank is a good idea too.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
There's likely more opinions on how to winterize a bike then there are in an oil thread.
I have never done any of these things as the only thing I do is cover the bike and check the battery charge each month....as I find days to ride even in the winter. Longest stretch without riding was 30 days.
That would just about cover what I do also...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
Sportster Owner/Rider since age 72...lol... Rider since Simplex...???
09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
Viking Shock cutout Saddlebags, Rear Mt. Signal Lt. Kit, Fork Brace...
RoadKing Air Shocks, Mustang Seat, Progressive Fork Springs...
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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The last two years I just changed the oil and added stabil to the gas tank. If we were to have some great weather sometime, yeah I'd like to be able to go out for a ride. Yes, I know a number of folks like seafoam. I add seafoam during the riding season and I've got a bottle of stabil so I am using it! Taking the gas tank off and draining the carbs is a bit ambitious for me. I had to buy fogging oil for the jet ski and the in laws boat so I was thinking about squirting some into the plugs so I could think what good care I was taking of my baby! Just wasn't completely sure what the top gear referenced in my above post alluded to. Fifth gear seeems like a reasonable guess.


1986 VN 750
20,000 miles
MF Battery
Replaced Stock Turn signals
Starter Clutch
NGK plugs
MT66 Pirelli's
Seafoam
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 06:07 PM
If only it had 6th gear..
 
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Top gear is the highest gear a vehicle has in its tranny so you are correct, it is 5th gear on our bikes. BTW, I use fogging oil in my engine and it gives me a peace of mind. I don't go as far as Jerry but agree with all his suggestions and since he's got 70k on his Vulcan, seems he's doing things right. If you are set in using stabil make sure it's made for ethanol crap gas or your baby will pay you back by not running very well next season. This is why people recommend Seafoam. It works.

Dave

Mods:
Jetted, shaved & coastered
Home made under-tank single filter
Converted ACCT's to manual (thanks wib714)
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Relocated helmet lock to license plate

Added stuff:
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Home made 'Vita-Volt' meter
Foot rests on engine guard
Tunes

Hmm....she was on the back when we left.... ??
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Appreciate it!!!


1986 VN 750
20,000 miles
MF Battery
Replaced Stock Turn signals
Starter Clutch
NGK plugs
MT66 Pirelli's
Seafoam
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 04:05 PM
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My procedure is if you are actually going to store the bike and not ride it. If you can ride it at least once a month, then just put stabilizer in the gas, and give it it's monthly exercise. I might still drain the carbs (using the drain screws to get it all out) because a float bowl full of gas is likely to evaporate over the course of a month, leaving behind all that gooey gunk. It is repeated evaporation of gas from carbs that eventually plug them up. There are some places where you are just not going to ride a motorcycle in the winter.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 12:34 PM
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Had a mechanic tell me not to use Stabil. He said it is crap and does more damage than good. Stick with the Seafoam

92 Vulcan 750
Saddle Bags
Windshield
Extended Backrest
ProTac Drivers Backrest
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